Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (22 Viewers)

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yep, had it stitched. Actually replaced all bearings,cam,pistons,rings etc... The only Toyota sourced parts were new head bolts , head gasket and rear main seal. I don't remember the brand of the other stuff.

Aftermarket rings? Huh. Seems like everything I’ve read says to go w/ oem. Was it the price that made you decide that?

 

[2mountainfish]

Aftermarket rings? Huh. Seems like everything I’ve read says to go w/ oem.

If I had endless buckets of money I suppose I would buy everything OEM, but my machinist has been around a long time and I trusted his judgement on what brand of parts he ordered. So far so good. If I don't use OEM, I at least try to get good quality aftermarket. I never buy the cheapest or China crap if I can help it. I don't think you ever get as much mileage out of a rebuild as you do from factory new. At the rate I'm going it will take me 18 years to put a 100,000 miles on my cruiser, and I drive it almost everyday.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

If I had endless buckets of money I suppose I would buy everything OEM, but my machinist has been around a long time and I trusted his judgement on what brand of parts he ordered. So far so good. If I don't use OEM, I at least try to get good quality aftermarket. I never buy the cheapest or China crap if I can help it. I don't think you ever get as much mileage out of a rebuild as you do from factory new. At the rate I'm going it will take me 18 years to put a 100,000 miles on my cruiser, and I drive it almost everyday.

Thank you for all that.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Non magnetic metal bits in the oil pan. Then, aside from the obvious ‘oh god damn ****!’ I AM highly glad I did this. Talk about feeling validated!
First out #4, broken top expander. Then #5 and 2 pistons broken into pieces. 1,3, 6 all okay.
I’m now on the hunt for a block.
Organizing and preparing to pull the front clip to pull the engine. Crossing fingers I asked a local friend for help removing it later today.
Another nice little savings grace of the day? Today I’m getting paid for vacation time.

 

[Hojack]

Non metallic metal bits in the oil pan. Then, aside from the obvious ‘oh god damn f***!’ I AM highly glad I did this.... First out #4, broken top expander. Then #5 and 2 pistons broken into pieces. 1,3, 6 all okay.
I’m now on the hunt for a block.
Organizing and preparing to pull the front clip to pull the engine. Crossing fingers I asked a local friend for help removing it later today.
Another nice little savings grace of the day? Today I’m getting paid for vacation time.

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You are so mechanical on that 2F. Hope you find a solid block that’ll end all the tantrums it’s throwing.

 

[Infinity00]

So glad you trusted your gut instinct. Still so weird that you had the coolant up top, but a good warning even if not the correct warning (although I’m not totally convinced)! I’m going to check my compression yearly from now on since that’s really what keyed you in on the pistons.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Few hours and here I am at, all by my little self.

 

[Willard]

Ouch. That sucks. Wonder if it is Northeastern thing. My 60 when the engine was rebuilt had to have the block replaced as well,

Good luck, take your time and you have this!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Down to two bellhousing bolts but the front driveshaft is in my way and the bolts are really tight. One beer and I’m energyless. Must go get dog food; dumb that I put it off. Stopping for now. Will prob grab cheese fries while I’m in Colch to re-energize.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Lamenting by firelight.
Overbore versus donor block?

 

[cruisermatt]

Overbore Add cam and EFI and you'll have a nice motor.

I've had great luck with the non-OEM rebuild parts like ITM bearings, pistons, etc. Any other brand bearings will be fine as well, Clevite, Mahle, etc. What's important is making sure all the parts are the right sizes and fit together correctly.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I’m copying and pasting this... text’d it to @evilorgoodtwin yesterday.
“You know how glad I am I hadn’t just put the head back on like so many said I should?”
I called the first machine shop because that’s the guy who’s been at this 30+ years and he was the one on the phone who was ADAMANT that any visible clouds (steam/smoke) above the engine was rings and low and behold he was dead on. He wasn’t there tho and his tech was unable to offer me any type of general quote w/o seeing the block.
So I’ll work on getting it removed and go from there.
Evil gave me the number of what their rebuild cost as a general idea but forwarned I am in $$$ CT.
Just had a good talk w/ the local powder coaters assistant. I’ve really needed that... last few days my brain has been really swimming.
Will do some research on parts and prices so I know ahead. I’ll tear down as far as I can esp once I’ve got the block out to cut costs and keep putting one foot in front of the other.

 

[cruisermatt]

You can assemble it yourself as well which will save a big chunk of cost and I think you’ll find it pretty fun.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

You can assemble it yourself as well which will save a big chunk of cost and I think you’ll find it pretty fun.

Yeah I could see that... So I'd only have the block boiled/cleaned, checked, potentially bored, honed, resurfaced (if necessary), turn the crank and cam, rods checked..... and then just assemble all the parts?

Freeze plugs, cam bearings, main bearings, rings on pistons... yada yada. Boy would that be a project of a lifetime for my soon to be 6 year old this summer to assist in and watch.

 

[cruisermatt]

Typically the machine shop will install the cam bearings and freeze plugs, no reason you wouldn't be able to do the freeze plugs yourself and I know you did the cam bearings yourself which was impressive as hell.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

potentially bored

I don't see how you get away without boring given the condition of the cylinder walls. And you need pistons and rings anyway so oversize is no big thing. And yeah it would be fun to assemble yourself. You could even go full on nerd and measure/plastigage clearances even though the machine shop should have it right. Document everything.

 

[cruisermatt]

The tools you need are a ring compressor, a good torque wrench, a nice non-metal deadblow hammer (orange Harbor Freight for the win), the FSM and some assembly lubricant. Nothing major.
Skip the plastiguage and pick up a micrometer set. Might as well use what the pros use.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Front DS removed and two passenger side BH bolts loosened only a smidge.
Standing here looking at the HB thinking if I’m going to remove as much as I can b4 dropping off at shop, it would be easier to loosen that 46mm nut now while I have the weight of the truck holding the flywheel steady?
Edited... flywheel is all loosely goosey now. I’ll figure it out after.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Oil pump removed. Gotta stop for now. Going to swing by Ace and see about some big eye hooks to screw in the headbolt holes... not 100% sure how to lift (or how cozy I feel) w/ just straight headbolts and fat washers on a chain.

 

[Willard]

The tools you need are a ring compressor, a good torque wrench, a nice non-metal deadblow hammer (orange Harbor Freight for the win), the FSM and some assembly lubricant. Nothing major.
Skip the plastiguage and pick up a micrometer set. Might as well use what the pros use.

Ring compressor = cheap to buy
Good torque wrench = spend for a good name brand calibrated one. If you buy one used most likely it will be out of spec.