Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
- Start date
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,062
Whoa. What’s w/ it being a 79? Is he meaning off the factory line?
The truck looks so wrecked....and the tailgate looks mint.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
If the frame is solid, that's not a bad deal. Frame, wheels, rear bumper, tailgate, transmission, transfer case, etc. I just towed my '71 FJ40 back to New Mexico so the driveway and garage are full again (two Silverados, a Malibu, an FJ60, two FJ40s, and a cab-over camper), so no room for this one. A few years ago I may have picked this one up.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,065
Yeah fairly solid bumpers too.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,066
Rear suspension is in. I went the route of spring perch pin bushings as done w/ OME lifts. After reading multiple posts about the size of how the hat should fit to the spring perch around the leaves I decided to omit the hat and isolators altogether.
Per Jason the Tough Dog leaf packs are the same width but larger in height. From what I understand w/ stock leaf packs the hat should fit flush w/ the isolators to the spring perch and since they wouldn’t I wasn’t going to take chances having there be a gap between the two.
I got the bushings from @cruiseroutfit.
Front driver pulled apart in no time. Chopped the front u bolts after about 10 mins of floundering w/ the nuts. Screw flutzing. Angle grinder took care of them in seconds. Closed up shop once everything was off to head into work for 3pm. Beautiful morning for working under the truck in the driveway.
Per Jason the Tough Dog leaf packs are the same width but larger in height. From what I understand w/ stock leaf packs the hat should fit flush w/ the isolators to the spring perch and since they wouldn’t I wasn’t going to take chances having there be a gap between the two.
I got the bushings from @cruiseroutfit.
Front driver pulled apart in no time. Chopped the front u bolts after about 10 mins of floundering w/ the nuts. Screw flutzing. Angle grinder took care of them in seconds. Closed up shop once everything was off to head into work for 3pm. Beautiful morning for working under the truck in the driveway.
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Yep that is where I got my bushing as well. When I tried the isolators I had kicking around, on my springs (not tough dog) there was not way they were going to work.
I realized after talking to Cruiser Outfitters my OME springs had them as well, they were just rusted solid to the springs and pins. I think my 60 only has the isolators when the original springs were on.
I realized after talking to Cruiser Outfitters my OME springs had them as well, they were just rusted solid to the springs and pins. I think my 60 only has the isolators when the original springs were on.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
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- 16,061
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Nice. It is going to drive a ton better with legit non-universal shackles that aren't seized up, and fresh shocks. Make sure you don't completely tighten any of the spring bolts until it has the weight on the spring. You want those bushings to be compressed in the position they'll be in 99% of the time (ride height).
Also, I don't remember if I've already told you but your frame and axles are really not that bad. I've repaired some Canadian trucks that were a ton worse and they are still rolling. That being said, looking at that short section of brake line in the first picture in post #2063, You should definitely do a thorough inspection of all your steel brake lines (and rubber too) and replace any that look rusted like that. Brake tubing is very thin and I have had lines with rust like that split under a moderately hard brake. Go for 100% copper-nickel line and be problem-less and happy forever.
Also, I don't remember if I've already told you but your frame and axles are really not that bad. I've repaired some Canadian trucks that were a ton worse and they are still rolling. That being said, looking at that short section of brake line in the first picture in post #2063, You should definitely do a thorough inspection of all your steel brake lines (and rubber too) and replace any that look rusted like that. Brake tubing is very thin and I have had lines with rust like that split under a moderately hard brake. Go for 100% copper-nickel line and be problem-less and happy forever.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,069
I don’t want to talk about my frame. It’s not as good as you think... and to go about patching it I have no choice to pull and most def replace the fuel and brake lines along the pass rail, esp if I’ll be welding on it. I’ve got copper/nickle line already... it’s now a matter of getting myself in gear and winter is just getting going here in CT. Not sure but all that might have to wait till early spring.
Love the new suspension and patiently waiting for Jason's return so I can get my order in. Poor truck just bounces around and slams down from even the slightest road imperfections. Looking forward to your input on ride quality etc. Did you get new OEM spring pads as well? Any other parts that would be good to have handy in addition to what comes with the lift?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,071
All new hardware for the shocks (except the steering dampener (I’m not using) came w/ what it needed). And no isolators (you might be calling pads?) although he told me to use them, I’m quite sure you can not because the TD leaf pack is too tall for the hat/isolator to isolator to spring perch size.
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,072
What I will say is, after the hard drops from two times I went on trail meets going over downed tree trunks, and big ass rocks... IF my spring hangers were gonna drop, they would have then. The frames on these definitely can take a s*** ton of punishment.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,073
Lucky timing today....
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Got yourself some caps F? or are those things about to rust off the posts?
NeverGiveUpYota
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- Thread starter
- #2,075
Stock T caps. Found them via Sigfrid on Facebook yesterday. They’ll look nice once I get my rear brakes refreshed.
You’re on to brakes too, eh?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,077
Of course I am... bought everything fur the rear but once I finished the knuckles and front brakes and had help bleeding g them, I didn’t want to dive into the rear. I love doing things multiple times haven’t you caught that yet?
By “rear brakes refreshed” you mean remove the wheels, rattle can the drums - put the wheels back on... right? 
Oh yeah, get this. I just failed rules one and two. I refuse to follow the third rule... so I’m gonna fix it. I went out this afternoon to spray all my new brake parts so they could cure for a week or so before I dive in. Like a dumbass I forgot to degrease my new calipers and brake booster.... yeah I have fish eyes ALL OVER. It’s okay. I can easily strip it and do it the right way the next time. The paint sure as hell didn’t adhere very well.
I’m going to stay my ass inside this evening and I’m not touching anything else, lest I f**k it up.
Oh yeah, and I have a cool trick for bleeding the brakes alone. The last time I had my fronts apart I wasn’t going to have them together in time for work. I tried to call out for the day and my manager gave me this brilliant idea. Take a concrete block and set it against the front driver’s seat on the floor between the brake pedal. Pump the pedal with your BFH and when you’ve got it charged up, wedge the hammer against the block and brake pedal to keep it depressed. Crawl under the truck to open the caliper/cylinder. Repeat as necessary. Damn if I didn’t get it done in time to go work a dinner rush on the chargrill. Glad I don’t do that anymore.
