Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (11 Viewers)

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I'm apprehensive to go too wild w/ scrubbing too since the grease and grim helps coat the metal and prevents rust. My gear box that I cleaned really well I hadn't painted and it's metal has a bit of a rust appearing on the surface.

 

[Cgbeachbum]

So I cleaned up the intake manifold some w/ brake clean and a nylon brush then a small stainless steel brush.
As I did this I realised the crimped intake pipe to egr plate and it's vent pipe to pcv needed to come off. Again easy. Bolts were not tight. Oddly one was a 12m and one was a 13mm. But looking into the mouth of the pipe from the plate I could see it was pretty gummed up. For hahas i tried blowing into the pipe and and found it's totally clogged.
@Cgbeachbum, this pipe goes to the positive crankcase valve I linked you to that I'd cleaned out... thought I'd point it out again as the pipe itself on mine is crazy clogged. Hence cleaning the valve out will do squat if the vapours can't even vent thru the pipe off the carb base.
So my sleuthing has shown me that two fairly big factors in venting hot gasoline vapors from the carb out could have been huge contributors to my intake cracking. 1) My carb fan (doesn't work... knew that awhile back) and now I find my carb could not even adequately vent vapors due to the 2) PCV pipe being completely clogged.

And overall the surface of my manifold flanges look pretty good even before getting a good scouring.

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Wow That is impressive! I did my manifold gasket a few months ago and EGR inlet it was pretty clean, i got lucky! lol Thankfully I have a new PCV valve in now and looking into ripping out the EGR and welding the hose inlet shut instead of ordering the block off plate, you know save every dime i can for the next issue/project. Thanks for keeping me in mind! Your doing a hell of a lot great things! Keep it up... I love that my 60 is my DD, but hate it too as it limits my time to really tear into her and take my time doing so.... need to by a rice burner to commute to work.... NA! there is no going back....

Just another suggestion for future crack inspections, if you go to a local welding supply shop, you can buy a Dye Penetrant system, where you spray a cleaner, then spray the dye, followed up by spraying an activator, if there are cracks, the dye will soak into them, wipe the excess off and the spray the activator, which will pull the dye from the cracks and give you the indicator of where the crack is... or isn't.... I've used this stuff a lot when inspecting ships hulls and their welds... just an FYI, looks like you have it all handled though!!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Carb linkages: I was inspired today by a couple pixs that JimC posted of carb throttle plates (the butterflies) and how the appear when a certain amount open or closed.
I have my carb off because I have my manifolds off so I put it in the sun and started tweaking linkages and taking pics.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Choke pulled out fully (plate open), choke pushed closed (plate closed).

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Throttle plate (butterfly) opened/closed.
Last are both closed.
Appears someone changed out three of the four screws too. That's huge as I have seen always recommended by JimC to not mess w/ them. The good and bad of taking a core and rebuilding it and shipping mine off as a core. These are things I did not take in and consider.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So to get both plates to open... I keep screwing around w/ linkages ect until I got it. Not easy to get a good shot w/o a third hand.
Third pix I'm pressing the secondary diaphram rod inward and trying to keep my arm on the linkage opposing the carb base.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Then my eye caught that one area has a bend to it that I'm wondering if it's supposed too. As I kept trying to get the secondary throttle plate to open I felt it hanging up....

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So I marked up the pix. This section has a outward bend to its top edge (yellow circled and red arrow pointing outward). Should it?

 

[CuCruiser]

That circled item strikes the foot below it to kick open the secodary a little to establish the vacuum necessary to then activate the secondary pot. It might have been bent outward by accident at some time. I'd bend it back to center over the foot. It took a little fiddling for me to get that part of my carb to work like it should. If it doesn't kick open far enough, your secondary won't open.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Thanks! I'm so glad I decided to check it out.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So I live in CT... kinda a redneck sorta girl so I figured I'd go the cheapest route possible to remove the surface rust from my exhaust manifold... Molasses and water bath. I'll add info here for all you skeptical mudders. Molasses 1 gal for $9.99 at Tractor Supply.
Rust Removal using Molasses
I figure I'll let the pieces soak for a few days and see how they look... various threads online date back over 10 years so totally worth trying it out. Did see that it can cause pitting so will be wary of that.

 

[micruz60]

Awesome, takes time for rust dissolving.
I have had decent results using a distilled white vinegar and water softener salt bath, need to clean up with fresh water quickly and then acetone to stop flash rust.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Awesome, takes time for rust dissolving.
I have had decent results using a distilled white vinegar and water softener salt bath, need to clean up with fresh water quickly and then acetone to stop flash rust.

I have acetone. Read to oil it too afterward. Would you suggest a certain type? I've seen a few folks mention a certain type but can't remember the name.

 

[micruz60]

Well, Eastwood has all kinds of products, and they are not cheap. There is a manifold dressing available, but I have not used it.
Mix of acetone and auto transmission fluid?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

K, I'll ask around or search here and see what comes up. Planning on doing the graphite spray on coating but TS didn't have it (it's a wood stove product and they are going out of season now) so need to find it elsewhere.

 

[4Cruisers]

K, I'll ask around or search here and see what comes up. Planning on doing the graphite spray on coating but TS didn't have it (it's a wood stove product and they are going out of season now) so need to find it elsewhere.

@Landpimp has used Slip-Plate with good results.

 

[CaptClose]

I talked to Jim Bob and Cooter, they're gunna swing by later for that used molasses. They wanna make some Connecticut Cruiser Sour Mash Moonshine with it. They're gonna barter with their used skoal can collection. I think they might have a few pieces you'd be interested in.

 

[Cgbeachbum]

Throttle plate (butterfly) opened/closed.
Last are both closed.
Appears someone changed out three of the four screws too. That's huge as I have seen always recommended by JimC to not mess w/ them. The good and bad of taking a core and rebuilding it and shipping mine off as a core. These are things I did not take in and consider.

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I definitely didn't see the post from Jim C on not screwing with the butterly valve, took mine out, snapped a screw , had to drill it out and re-tapp all because I had forgot that these plates screws get mushroomed to prevent them from coming loose and falling out into your intake.... He's right, don't screw with them... learned my lesson! Glad your smarter and listen better than me!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I definitely didn't see the post from Jim C on not screwing with the butterly valve, took mine out, snapped a screw , had to drill it out and re-tapp all because I had forgot that these plates screws get mushroomed to prevent them from coming loose and falling out into your intake.... He's right, don't screw with them... learned my lesson! Glad your smarter and listen better than me!

I think I remember you saying you had in some thread. Yea I have a funky memory for all the "oh holy s*** don't do xyz!" But yes as you can see from my pix, someone clearly screwed with three of my four. Makes sense as the choke bracket was a ll sorts of bent to s*** too. That is the good and bad of getting a core to rebuild. Thankfully I am cautious in my curiosity.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

And as I wait for the manifold to get welded I pulled my diz to recurve. Found that the gap was way too tight... guessing that happens over time. Gap (between the cam and the rubbing block, couldn't get a great pix but is the third photo) should be set at 0.3mm and I could barely fit in tightly a .005mm feeler. Will adjust along with a new bushing on the advance stop pin (mine was totally gone, circled in red) and new springs.

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