Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
- Start date
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Too clean and shiny. I don't approve.
Nice work. I love the TD suspension.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,984
So I wanted to elaborate a tad... mostly for me cuz I imagine none of you will follow my jibberish.
I had to use a number of lengths of wood, my crowbar, a stretch of nylon rope and a shorter old crowbar. The rope and the shorter crowbar I used as a spanish windlass (a god send because my ratchet straps are apparently crap) attached right behind the knuckle to the body mount that is almost parallel to the trans crossmember. I spun the rope by putting the short crowbar between and spinning then I’d wedge it w/ a rag against the edge of the leaves. I swapped to the nylon because last night the fiber rope snapped and I got a face full of whatever that stuff is, thankfully the bar didn’t hit me. The wood, 2x3’s and a thin short piece of maple. I used the wood to fill the gap between the pumpkin and the spring perch most forward section. Then I’d fit my big crowbar in between those to push the uppermost leaf diagonally out and to the rear. I had a skinny straight pick that I could stick into the hole and get an idea the direction I needed to push to line the pin up w/ the hole. The bottle jack was my last move. I had a small piece of wood I was able to fit in opposite the u bolt nuts (in a diamond shape. I’d loosely attached them last night but loosened more today) so I could still get at them to tighten as I saw the hole start matching up w/ the pin.
I’m gonna guess all that bs is not normal? I’m really hoping the rest goes far better. If anyone has some extra awesome hints please speak now cuz seriously that blew.
I had to use a number of lengths of wood, my crowbar, a stretch of nylon rope and a shorter old crowbar. The rope and the shorter crowbar I used as a spanish windlass (a god send because my ratchet straps are apparently crap) attached right behind the knuckle to the body mount that is almost parallel to the trans crossmember. I spun the rope by putting the short crowbar between and spinning then I’d wedge it w/ a rag against the edge of the leaves. I swapped to the nylon because last night the fiber rope snapped and I got a face full of whatever that stuff is, thankfully the bar didn’t hit me. The wood, 2x3’s and a thin short piece of maple. I used the wood to fill the gap between the pumpkin and the spring perch most forward section. Then I’d fit my big crowbar in between those to push the uppermost leaf diagonally out and to the rear. I had a skinny straight pick that I could stick into the hole and get an idea the direction I needed to push to line the pin up w/ the hole. The bottle jack was my last move. I had a small piece of wood I was able to fit in opposite the u bolt nuts (in a diamond shape. I’d loosely attached them last night but loosened more today) so I could still get at them to tighten as I saw the hole start matching up w/ the pin.
I’m gonna guess all that bs is not normal? I’m really hoping the rest goes far better. If anyone has some extra awesome hints please speak now cuz seriously that blew.
100 Pages! That must mean the truck’s restoration is nearing completion 
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,986
Hey now.... you know there’s never an end! Exhaust, rear frame patches, rear brakes, trans/tcase rebuild.....100 Pages! That must mean the truck’s restoration is nearing completion
You all know I just talk a lot, I am a girl remember?!
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,987
Not one person is gonna speak up? Please tell me how to make those two meet easier for the next one!
What was your order of install?
I’d try bolting the leaves to the axle first.
I’d try bolting the leaves to the axle first.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,989
Ah wise, thanks! I added the leaves to the frame hangers, rear first then front per the fsm. But I’m envisioning the other way much easier. W/ two jacks and a bunch of stands I was very creative w/ shifting this and that. Thank you!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Only if you want to complicate your life. You want to deal with the least weight and most flex.
1-Jack the axle up and out of the way. Block it with jack stands or wood. Get it way above the spring and out of the way.
2-Bolt the fixed end of the spring to the frame hanger.
3-Raise the spring and attach the front shackle
4-Lower the axle onto the spring perch. Bolt into place.
All these bits are heavy and need real time alignment. It's not easy. I'm saying good job to F getting through this.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,991
So all my tweaking this and that is what others do in a driveway setting?
Yep I agree with Drew. I did the following
Jackstands to frame
Jackstands to axles
remove both springs
Install new springs
Lower axles on new springs and bolt up.
Sometimes (like the rear) removing the driveshaft helps, just note it will want to turn on you so prop up the pinion flange with something.
For the rears do not forget to remove the Ebrake bracket (and put it back) it will make you life easier if you are not fighting that.
And to answer your question, I did mine in my home garage and just for fun I did it twice (don't ask), I found the easiest way is to have the axle (on stands)and then put each spring on and lower the axles.
Jackstands to frame
Jackstands to axles
remove both springs
Install new springs
Lower axles on new springs and bolt up.
Sometimes (like the rear) removing the driveshaft helps, just note it will want to turn on you so prop up the pinion flange with something.
For the rears do not forget to remove the Ebrake bracket (and put it back) it will make you life easier if you are not fighting that.
And to answer your question, I did mine in my home garage and just for fun I did it twice (don't ask), I found the easiest way is to have the axle (on stands)and then put each spring on and lower the axles.
I don’t have a lot of experience changing leaves out, but the few I’ve done I’ve dropped the axle entirely, rolled it out - swapped both springs and slid it back under.
I can see the benefits to leaving it in place, especially on the front - less to disconnect. But dropping one side at a time - yeah, I’d imagine running into the problems you’re having where everything is skewed.
You got thru the first side, second will go twice as fast.
I can see the benefits to leaving it in place, especially on the front - less to disconnect. But dropping one side at a time - yeah, I’d imagine running into the problems you’re having where everything is skewed.
You got thru the first side, second will go twice as fast.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,994
I pondered doing both front at the same time but the thought of the axle shifting gave me the willies.
@Cruiserdrew is right on - axle jacked up and out of way, fixed end first then shackle end. I dropped the axle on the pins after both springs were installed.
For the rear axle there are two tricks I learned that made a huge difference. The first is for the anti-inversion pin hole on the shackle not clearing the hanger. If this happens, use a ratchet strap between frame and spring center to flatten spring allowing AI pin hole to clear the hanger. The second is to remove the driveshaft slip joint zerk to let driveshaft compress more easily. This is key when dropping axle on the spring pins.
For the rear axle there are two tricks I learned that made a huge difference. The first is for the anti-inversion pin hole on the shackle not clearing the hanger. If this happens, use a ratchet strap between frame and spring center to flatten spring allowing AI pin hole to clear the hanger. The second is to remove the driveshaft slip joint zerk to let driveshaft compress more easily. This is key when dropping axle on the spring pins.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,996
Thankfully I was able to understand the direction I needed the pin and perch to move. That’s why I kept using the pick to guide me. I used a stump and the bottle jack under the very front edge of the frame to lift it so I could lower the stand on another stump that was holding the front crossmember frame section. Lots of angles to play with... thank god for an art background.
Love the thread, and I made page 100!
Whoo hoo!
I will try to contribute in the future, carry on
Whoo hoo!
I will try to contribute in the future, carry on
Just push it back into place. This is not a coil spring vehicle.
I learned from my CJ7 4 jackstands are key.
Good job, sorry I can't offer any words of wisdom, as I am one of THOSE people, that has access to a shop with lifts, haha. My hats off to ya for banging it out on the ground.
