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Builds Won a '74 40 on a coin toss...
- Thread starter ginmtb
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ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #642
Going to start the process this weekend of replacing the cooling system. Still waiting on some parts I ordered from CruiserDan - parts are starting to dry up don't wait too long to get what you need. But I can get started. Will do a flush of the system which will hopefully get rid of the "rusty" colored radiator fluid. The stuff in the bag in the lower left is new insulation for the hard lines that run to the rear heater. TREs obviously aren't part of the cooling system but the wife doesn't need to know that... 
Still safety related right? Heater valve courtesy of @Racer65 - thank you!
Still safety related right? Heater valve courtesy of @Racer65 - thank you!
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #643
So started the radiator replacement project - drained some fluid then did the dishwashing detergent trick. Funny, took plug off all ready to catch fluid and nothing came out. Stuck a screwdriver up there and got past some gunk and then it drained out very slowly.
That doesn't look very good eh?
Also, found a small fuel leak under the hood. Will take care of that in the desmog process which will be happening soon too. Engine bay is going to look a lot cleaner soon.
That doesn't look very good eh?
Also, found a small fuel leak under the hood. Will take care of that in the desmog process which will be happening soon too. Engine bay is going to look a lot cleaner soon.
Fluid doesn't look too bad to my eyes. Why not just pull the lower hose? Fluid will come out in a hurry.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #645
Read this in this forum somewhere - hoping to get the sludge out of the system:
Flushing the system is not that bad--I would go with what my Rad shop uses(it works). Before you remove the old rad, drain a gallon or so from the system. Mix up 1-2 cups of Cascade dishwashing soap(powder) in a gallon of hot water(I used demineralized water{not distilled}). Pour this into the system. Run the engine up to op temp. Let it sit overnight. Run it back up to op temp, then drain everything(when it's cool enough). Pull the old radiator(now you could flush the engine components in reverse flow with clear water).
Flushing the system is not that bad--I would go with what my Rad shop uses(it works). Before you remove the old rad, drain a gallon or so from the system. Mix up 1-2 cups of Cascade dishwashing soap(powder) in a gallon of hot water(I used demineralized water{not distilled}). Pour this into the system. Run the engine up to op temp. Let it sit overnight. Run it back up to op temp, then drain everything(when it's cool enough). Pull the old radiator(now you could flush the engine components in reverse flow with clear water).
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #647
I'm wondering if it is a problem to keep this mixture in the system for a week. I'm still waiting on parts and probably won't be ready to drain until next weekend. Or I can drain the system tomorrow and then let it sit empty for the week. But something tells me that would be worse. Thoughts?
I doubt it would hurt anything... but, I was wrong one time... I'm sure Gary will chime in in the morning.
Did you drain your block too? Was the gunk you mentioned in the block drain or the rad drain?
Did you drain your block too? Was the gunk you mentioned in the block drain or the rad drain?
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #650
So my buddy sends me a link this morning to this stuff:
Www.evanscooling.com
I like the idea of never having to change the coolant. But dang it is spendy. Looking at $260 for five gallons and the prep fluid.
Anyone use this on their 40?
Www.evanscooling.com
I like the idea of never having to change the coolant. But dang it is spendy. Looking at $260 for five gallons and the prep fluid.
Anyone use this on their 40?
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #652
Confirmed the radiator leak - see the soapy residue?
Also, I started the process for replacing the TREs. Loosened up some castle nuts and sprayed with PB Blaster. For fun I tried loosening them by whacking them with the pickle wrench but those things didn't budge. Guess I may need to use some TRE pullers. Or a bigger hammer...
Also, I started the process for replacing the TREs. Loosened up some castle nuts and sprayed with PB Blaster. For fun I tried loosening them by whacking them with the pickle wrench but those things didn't budge. Guess I may need to use some TRE pullers. Or a bigger hammer...
Confirmed the radiator leak - see the soapy residue?
View attachment 1082345
Also, I started the process for replacing the TREs. Loosened up some castle nuts and sprayed with PB Blaster. For fun I tried loosening them by whacking them with the pickle wrench but those things didn't budge. Guess I may need to use some TRE pullers. Or a bigger hammer...
You'll probably need both ... and patience... and some heat , since you are replacing the TREs (heat will damage the boots on the old TREs). TRE puller is inexpensive or you can rent them from auto parts houses.
Yeah, and if you bring it back they'll give you a refund -at least Autozone does.
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- Mar 9, 2014
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Looks like your ready. I forgot the longer bolts for the thermo housing and mine snapped even after months of soaking in penetrate oil to break free and still havent gotten around to ordering them. I see you have a new lower thermo housing, I was told they were NLA, nice score.
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There's a slot on the threaded ends of the rods. If you
Plan to reuse your rods, carefully insert a flat tip screwdriver into the slot and use it to spread the slot and allow the tre to be unscrewed.
Of course, this is after you have used penetrating oil liberally.
A large Stilson-type pipe wrench will hold the rod... But be careful you don't gouge your rods.
Heat helps... As does tapping opposite sides of the rod simultaneously with two hammers.
Oh! ... And have fun!!
Plan to reuse your rods, carefully insert a flat tip screwdriver into the slot and use it to spread the slot and allow the tre to be unscrewed.
Of course, this is after you have used penetrating oil liberally.
A large Stilson-type pipe wrench will hold the rod... But be careful you don't gouge your rods.
Heat helps... As does tapping opposite sides of the rod simultaneously with two hammers.
Oh! ... And have fun!!
