Wits End Turbo Owners

[alia176]

In the summer I'm pushing 220deg easy and mostly hover around 200+deg. I have a newish Koyo alum 2 row radiator, 15k CST in the blue fan clutch. I need to do something before this summer arrives.

Driving w/o the hood lowers this temp by quite a bit so my air flow could be an issue, I guess.

 

[scottryana]

Hmm sounds like we need to figure out what is different in my setup compared to the Wits End setup. I know I did drill and weld a water fitting into my thermostat housing, I am also intercooled. But I have never seen temps even close to these.

 

[alia176]

Today I went snowshoeing and the air temperature was around 20°. I bet I climbed from 7, 000' all the way up to 10,500' and my temps were around 197 or so. I was mostly climbing in second gear with maybe 2-3psi of boost.

 

[OutlawMike]

What coolant temps are you guys seeing during normal operation and when say pushing it, also when it's cold out vs summer? Just curious.

Have my coolant temp sensor in the coolant elbow next to the distributor. This feeds into my 14:1 gage setup. In the summer, climbing I-80 to Tahoe, at 8.5 PSI boost, I will see temps up to 210. Around town, right now, 180. I have a newer OEM type radiator. I do have the upgraded fan clutch from Joey.

 

[uscmas412]

Need some advice on recurring engine problems. I'm on my 2nd rebuild, first was done as prep for the turbo. 2nd was done following low compression on cylinder #5. Two different shops did each rebuild. I do not have the time/garage space/knowledge to do an engine rebuild, but not sure I can trust a shop to do it right. Considering new upper if I can source and possibly new short block. I'm too far in to give up on the ol girl. Any thoughts on what may be causing the problem?

First rebuild was local to me and comprehensive:
Mileage: 202,900
Cost: $6k + all the parts I purchased (~$9k)
Timing chain
Rings/rod bearings
Piston ceramic coating
Weld oil return drain
Head Gasket
New wiring harness
Aftermarket Brian Crower Valves (this may be the problem?)
Business was sold so I had no recourse

I drove the rig for about 1k miles over 1 year before installing the turbo kit (Turbo installed @ 204k). No problems with compression, though their attention to detail left a lot to be desired. Eventually I got a CEL indicating misfire on #5 cylinder. I did a compression test and confirmed bad compression on #5. It drove fine, so I kept running it periodically until I found a dedicated LC shop.



Second Rebuild was a reputable Land Cruiser shop:
Mileage: 208,000
Cost: $4,700
Determined "stuck" valve on cylinder 5
Head job only
Replaced 2 fuel injectors

Other than a suspected exhaust leak, this rebuild seemed to be doing ok. I picked the vehicle up April 22, and have about 3k miles on rebuild #2. Currently have a CEL for cylinder #3 misfire. Shakes bad at startup & idle, but drives okay. Oil is not milky but is suspiciously less viscous than oil. Verified low compression on cylinder #3 (70). Compression numbers following rebuild were:
1.187
2.194
3.190
4.196
5.189
6.192

Not sure what to do next. Are the aftermarket valves causing an issue? I never installed a boost gauge, but I still don't suspect the turbo as the source of the problem since everyone else is doing ok.

 

[audi2nr]

Hmm sounds like we need to figure out what is different in my setup compared to the Wits End setup. I know I did drill and weld a water fitting into my thermostat housing, I am also intercooled. But I have never seen temps even close to these.

scott, is your engine built or stock?

 

[scottryana]

scott, is your engine built or stock?

The grey truck has a bone stock engine. Even OEM headhasket and OEM head bolts.

 

[CJK]

Deleted

 

[-Spike-]

Unrelated...but it's coming up on time for registration in CA. I don't want to remove the turbo to take it for smog. Has anyone tried to convince the test center with $$ to just not look under the hood but continue test or try to pass it off as the Safari Turbo kit [D-490 exempt] (could even swap springs in EWG to open at 4 psi)?

PM if you "have a guy" that you've used to smog

Soapbox START
I'm on-board for clean air and reducing pollution to keep nature pretty, I'll always run cats...but I think it's stupid that parts are not allowed even if the emissions are unchanged.
Soapbox END.

LOL, I wonder if we're about to witness the first CARB bribery sting operation.

 

[CJK]

LOL, I wonder if we're about to witness the first CARB bribery sting operation.

Lol I will rely on the inefficiency of large government to slide on by, but this site is indexed so better not to make it so easy to find in case they decide that’s the hill to die on.
Lol around me, FB Marketplace has plenty of advertisements for smog help

 

[Corbet]

Towed my camper up to Silverton this weekend. First time towing over a pass since the turbo install. Nice to travel faster with a trailer than I could prior without.

 

[alia176]

Towed my camper up to Silverton this weekend. First time towing over a pass since the turbo install. Nice to travel faster with a trailer than I could prior without.

View attachment 3252985

I haven't towed my camper up to Silverton post turbo even though I really wanted to last August! Once I can overcome the overheating issue, I may think about doing it this summer.

 

[bwakeling]

i am low 180's in the winter so far. have not ventured far with the truck since install but temps do increase a bit when I step on it. Have an old TRAD which is at least 10 years old and have a new koyo ready when it gives up. I also have a vented hood which lets lots heat out. I am still amazed everytime I drive this how much the turbo has changed it. for a fully armored 80 on heavy 40's I bet it is quicker than a stock truck....although I do not know anyone with a stocker to test it.

 

[audi2nr]

Thanks to those who have commented with their temps. i'm just trying to get a bearing on the efficiency of the cooling system in my truck and it seems like it's doing well however don't have any summer heat data yet since my truck just got running in october/nov 2022. ambient temperature ranges out here in western washington have been 50's to a few times in the low 20's at night and i typically see low to mid 180's under all conditions. Low load cruising the truck will be in the low 180s and idle and full load on the dyno and street i have only seen as high as 186. The highest load the truck has seen so far was last weekend going up steven's pass with ambient temps in the mid 30's i think its a 8/9 mile climb with an average grade of 5-6ish % going to 4100ft not extremely crazy compared to some other passes but its definitely not flat. when i say heavy load it was basically in boost the whole way up, being able to pass people going up hill feels great, truck was loaded with all 4 of us and a trunk full of snow gear for the weekend and snowboarding etc.. temps never climbed above 187. the cooling system is brand new and i have a blue clutch with i think 7 or 8k cst fluid and a griffin rad. I had a derale 9k series 13 row external oil cooler plumbed in via mocal thermostatic sandwich plate at the oil filter. I removed the cooler to see how temps change and I saw roughly the same coolant temps maybe a 2 or 3 degree drop and I saw a roughly 10 psi oil pressure increase. Oil temps without the cooler are in thr low 170s idling for a bit in the cold and high 180s to high 190s on the freeway, flogging on it get its to the low 200s I've not seen higher than 210f. My hood is also vented quite well and there is a massive amount of heat that gets released from the turbo area and sitting at idle the vent area at the front of the hood allows quite a bit of air from the radiator/fan to escape. My last thought on my engines cooling efficiency is due to the ring pack on my Ross pistons. I started looking into it when I came across this article and video. My piston ring pack consists of a 1.5mm top 1.5mm 2nd and 3mm oil ring vs a 1.75mm 2.0mm 4.0mm stock setup. Basically friction = heat (duh) as well as it being a horse power trap, you also need to take piston ring tension in to consideration but the thicker the rings the more the heat.

Bigger Radiator or Thinner Piston Rings? Friction in Internal Combustion Engines

We all recognize that internal combustion engines generate heat as a by-product of combustion. Both air-cooled and water-cooled engines deploy strategies to dissipate that heat. This is all done in an effort to keep the engine from running too hot. But what does that have to do with piston...

www.enginebuildermag.com

P.s. I love geeking out on the content from lake speed Jr, loves race cars and oil and things that go fast.


Anyways.... we will still see what summer has to say about things but I have a good feeling. Happy boosting!

 

[alia176]

Thanks to those who have commented with their temps. i'm just trying to get a bearing on the efficiency of the cooling system in my truck and it seems like it's doing well however don't have any summer heat data yet since my truck just got running in october/nov 2022. ambient temperature ranges out here in western washington have been 50's to a few times in the low 20's at night and i typically see low to mid 180's under all conditions. Low load cruising the truck will be in the low 180s and idle and full load on the dyno and street i have only seen as high as 186. The highest load the truck has seen so far was last weekend going up steven's pass with ambient temps in the mid 30's i think its a 8/9 mile climb with an average grade of 5-6ish % going to 4100ft not extremely crazy compared to some other passes but its definitely not flat. when i say heavy load it was basically in boost the whole way up, being able to pass people going up hill feels great, truck was loaded with all 4 of us and a trunk full of snow gear for the weekend and snowboarding etc.. temps never climbed above 187. the cooling system is brand new and i have a blue clutch with i think 7 or 8k cst fluid and a griffin rad. I had a derale 9k series 13 row external oil cooler plumbed in via mocal thermostatic sandwich plate at the oil filter. I removed the cooler to see how temps change and I saw roughly the same coolant temps maybe a 2 or 3 degree drop and I saw a roughly 10 psi oil pressure increase. Oil temps without the cooler are in thr low 170s idling for a bit in the cold and high 180s to high 190s on the freeway, flogging on it get its to the low 200s I've not seen higher than 210f. My hood is also vented quite well and there is a massive amount of heat that gets released from the turbo area and sitting at idle the vent area at the front of the hood allows quite a bit of air from the radiator/fan to escape. My last thought on my engines cooling efficiency is due to the ring pack on my Ross pistons. I started looking into it when I came across this article and video. My piston ring pack consists of a 1.5mm top 1.5mm 2nd and 3mm oil ring vs a 1.75mm 2.0mm 4.0mm stock setup. Basically friction = heat (duh) as well as it being a horse power trap, you also need to take piston ring tension in to consideration but the thicker the rings the more the heat.

Bigger Radiator or Thinner Piston Rings? Friction in Internal Combustion Engines

We all recognize that internal combustion engines generate heat as a by-product of combustion. Both air-cooled and water-cooled engines deploy strategies to dissipate that heat. This is all done in an effort to keep the engine from running too hot. But what does that have to do with piston...

www.enginebuildermag.com

P.s. I love geeking out on the content from lake speed Jr, loves race cars and oil and things that go fast.


Anyways.... we will still see what summer has to say about things but I have a good feeling. Happy boosting!

It's interesting that you went with a Griffin radiator versus a Ron Davis radiator. I'd like to hear your thoughts on that choice.

 

[audi2nr]

It's interesting that you went with a Griffin radiator versus a Ron Davis radiator. I'd like to hear your thoughts on that choice.

I got it before I knew about the RD otherwise I would have gone RD, the fit and finish sucks on the griffin but has been working ok right now, I got the griffin through jegs for 900.

 

[alia176]

I got it before I knew about the RD otherwise I would have gone RD, the fit and finish sucks on the griffin but has been working ok right now, I got the griffin through jegs for 900.

Thank you for taking the time to reply.

 

[Snobrd700]

You don't want to be at lambda 1 (14.7:1 on petrol/gasoline) on boost. I'd personally be looking for early to mid 12s at a max and I run 11.8 on an XR6 turbo (Barra engine) that I muck around with because having trouble keeping IAT under control.

I know you posted this awhile back, but quick question. My turbo 80 is getting AFR 14.7:1 at idle and light load. Under boost it drops to 12:1. Is that normal? Based on your post it seems normal. Are we seeing boost leaks? Loosing regulated air? Otherwise can you explain why the Mia happens? Thanks!

 

[Heckraiser]

Yes, that is normal. The computer is programmed to monitor the AFR and make adjustments to keep it at 14.7:1 under light load because that is the most efficient AFR for the engine to operate. When you put the engine under load, it switches to closed loop and dumps fuel for safety.

But 12:1 is just a little lean under boost, IMO. I'd feel more comfortable in the 11's. How much boost are you running?

 

[Snobrd700]

Yes, that is normal. The computer is programmed to monitor the AFR and make adjustments to keep it at 14.7:1 under light load because that is the most efficient AFR for the engine to operate. When you put the engine under load, it switches to closed loop and dumps fuel for safety.

But 12:1 is just a little lean under boost, IMO. I'd feel more comfortable in the 11's. How much boost are you running?

I have the spring in the kit Joey provided. About 7 - 8 PSI MAX. I’ll keep an eye on the AFR gauge as it may drop to 11:1. This is all new to me so than you!