That sounds about right for 8psi. Sounds like the kit is working as designed 👍
Wits End Turbo Owners
- Thread starter spyduh
- Start date
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Great! Thanks again!!
Finally finished up my catch cans, that should take care of that.
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Those look great. I've been seriously considering those cans - talk to me about the mounts please.
Looks much better than mine 🙃
What fittings did you use in the crankcase and air intake?
I had a mount fabricated that utilizes the same holes in the head that the York brackets typically use.
I replaced the OEM PCV with a Radium push banjo fitting. It’s intended for a 2JZ but fits any Toyota that uses the same PCV grommet, which includes the 1FZ. There is now a Radium PCV on the outlet of that catch can. I almost always stay OEM but in this case I wanted the PCV post catch can.
Air intake is a Vibrant pipe-to-AN compression fitting. I cut the barb down a quite a bit and then sanded off the powdercoat in that area before installing.
I have another valve cover that I was planning to have AN fittings welded too, but now I might just drill out the vent barb to accommodate another Radium push banjo fitting.
I also added the Radium PCV to catch can outlet — I figured it made the most sense to stop pressurization from intake at the closest point.
Good tip on the Tube-to-AN fittings. I wasn’t aware those existed, but I’ll pick one up.
Is the Radium Push Banjo fitting this one
P/N 20-0408?
From the pic, it looks like you did this for PCV-side, correct?
1. Radium Push Banjo (10AN)
2. 10AN Female to 6AN Male ORB Fitting
3. PushLok Hose End, 6AN, 45Deg
Thanks in advance, your setup looks professional...Mine looks DIY 😆
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Cross posting this gauge option. With enough interest he will produce an option with air/fuel making this a near perfect option for us with the Wits End Turbo. If you have not seen this thread please take a look. I for one am all in on this solution for extra gauges without cluttering up my dash. Trans temp, boost, air/fuel and water temp in the OEM clock location. Or other OBD based readings.
forum.ih8mud.com
NEW 80 Series Multigauge Clock Replacement
Looking forward to that option being added. With a 4 perimeter display Outside Temp Trans Temp Coolant Temp EGT or Boost (to be determined later) This makes for a really desirable addition IMHO. Especially if it can read and clear codes on top of everything. I won't promise code reading...
forum.ih8mud.com
Do you a check valve on the line that comes off the valve cover? It would see that under boost you would be reversing flow by tie'ing in post turbo in the intake manifold.
Looks clean AF, curious how what your doing there though, why two cans?
There's a 10AN PCV valve on the outlet from Catch Can-to-Intake Manifold that prevents pressurization of catch can from intake manifold.
If you want to capture all [s***], you need two catch cans because [s***] will leave valve cover into either intake manifold (when intake manifold under vacuum) or Pre-Turbo Air intake tube (when intake manifold under boost) due to pressure differential.
I wrote a post about it many pages ago
**EDIT: Linking Recent Post with Links to older posts**
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That's interesting. I'm not sure I totally understand your answer.
Consider you could just get two check valves, and run them both to either point. There would be a tiny bit of restriction, maybe thats the "why"
We should all consider simply rerouting a long section of crank vent hose to just on top of one rear tire for better burnouts. Good way to rationalize a part time conversion while were at it.
No worries, I may not be clear.
Do you mean this layout?
Legend
1-way Flow Check Valve = -->
2-way Flow = <-->
Layout
Crankcase Vent (Intake side) <--> Catch Can --> Intake Manifold
Crankcase Vent (Exhaust Side) <--> Catch Can --> Air Intake Tube
So in this layout, air will only ever flow away from crankcase (at valve cover) which isolates it as the [High Pressure] area.
Logically, this seems like the best way, but I don't recall why we didn't put a check valve there. Maybe I thought it was redundant / not necessary as the air intake tube cannot pressurize the crankcase.
The only condition in which air could flow from [air intake tube --> catch can --> valve cover] would be when intake manifold is under vacuum, during which the PCV system functions as OEM designed. Am I missing something?
Do you mean this layout?
Legend
1-way Flow Check Valve = -->
2-way Flow = <-->
Layout
Crankcase Vent (Intake side) <--> Catch Can --> Intake Manifold
Crankcase Vent (Exhaust Side) <--> Catch Can --> Air Intake Tube
So in this layout, air will only ever flow away from crankcase (at valve cover) which isolates it as the [High Pressure] area.
Logically, this seems like the best way, but I don't recall why we didn't put a check valve there. Maybe I thought it was redundant / not necessary as the air intake tube cannot pressurize the crankcase.
The only condition in which air could flow from [air intake tube --> catch can --> valve cover] would be when intake manifold is under vacuum, during which the PCV system functions as OEM designed. Am I missing something?
SO...................
I spent several days getting in touch with @NLXTACY about a turbo purchace. COVID had just occurred and he had a list of people waiting, as parts were a problem. After moths of back-and-forth phone calls, he stated someone had gone a diffrent direction, and no longer needed a turbo, and I could buy his spot on the list. To do this I would need to pay up-front, which I did based on his reputation here and in past dealings. I have always found NLXTACY to do quality work when used in the past.
I have been unable to get in touch with @NLXTACY for a while now, any leads?
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I spent several days getting in touch with @NLXTACY about a turbo purchace. COVID had just occurred and he had a list of people waiting, as parts were a problem. After moths of back-and-forth phone calls, he stated someone had gone a diffrent direction, and no longer needed a turbo, and I could buy his spot on the list. To do this I would need to pay up-front, which I did based on his reputation here and in past dealings. I have always found NLXTACY to do quality work when used in the past.
I have been unable to get in touch with @NLXTACY for a while now, any leads?
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Up to a year, it’s been just shy of 10 months. Pretty sure he posted a long time ago that he wasn’t going to post play by play status of kits based on the overwhelming production problems both during and post Covid. So I’d say you don’t have anything to worry about with respect to delivery. I got my kit. As have plenty others here. We all waited and it was worth it.
Agree with all others who have replied. A tragic series of events cause lots of delays. The turbo will show up, and it’s totally worth the wait.
So I’m not a turbo owner, but I placed a $550 order for brake parts and other stuff on 3/3/23. I have tried every method of contact and had zero response. I will never do business with Wits End again. I don’t mind a wait if I am at least acknowledged. I had a seized caliper on my 80 and needed to get it back up ASAP.
I’m posting in this thread on the off chance Joey reads it and sends me a refund!
I’m posting in this thread on the off chance Joey reads it and sends me a refund!
I'm more concerned that I have been being ignored for months.
You are correct, it has not been a year
If there are health or family issues, I wish him well and will continue to wait, but I'm simply getting no replies, anywhere I try.
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His general rule of thumb is basically no response unless something to report, whether that is good or bad. So I wouldn’t worry much at this point. He was putting his wife’s health issues out there in the public eye but quit some time ago. Not because she is healthy again. It was just too much.
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