Wits End Turbo Owners (7 Viewers)

[alia176]

My truck was a weekend wheeler and I knew it consumed oil, but didn’t care. Now it has been my daily for almost 2 years or so? I stopped tracking fuel fill-ups and moved to tracking oil fill-ups. I am averaging 1qt every 500-650 miles.

Is it “necessary“ to address this for a turbo install? If it is, I will save for a head rebuild and a short block. If not, I will just keep adding oil, as the truck runs fantastic.

You brought up an interesting point. I'm in the middle of replacing the front main seal, even though it's only less than 10 years old. I know the syn oil is partially responsible but I also wonder if my PCV isn't working properly and the crankcase is getting pressurized? I dunno, just a WAG at this point. But, I'll remove the valve cover to do the seal as a PM and also check that one PCV with baffle (valve cover has two PCVs) while I have it off the head.

 

[CJK]

2 days down on the turbo kit, hopefully one more to go, but no reason to rush it.

I’ve got the turbo on top of the flange (with nuts loose), wi the downpipe mounted up.
everything has gone according to plan so far, but that Evan canister check valve was a PITA.

J-Pipe mounting was a bit interesting. I torqued down evenly but there’s a very tiny gap (<0.5mm) in the mid-point between the manifold and the exhaust pipe flange for Cyl 4-6 on the passenger side (on long axis). Both end of the exhaust flange are flat against manifold as well as the side facing the engine.

I made sure the exhaust gasket was set in there properly so I think it’s just a slight variation in the j-pipe, and the exhaust is sealed.


I didn’t want to have to deal with downpipe heat under the hood so have downpipe blanket and the banana hammock (great name).

The only issue I’m contemplating is how to mount the exhaust clamp for hanger to
Bell housing.

I guess I could mount it over the blanket or mount the hanger further south after the downpipe?

 

[alia176]

This post may help others, while they wrap up their turbo install.

I'm currently investigating a boost leak (have yet to achieve 6psi) and borrowed a buddy's smoke machine that has a built in air compressor. I found few "seepage" and a big leak, as shown in the pic below. So, this necessitated the removal of the TB in order to find the leaks and replace all vac lines. Some of these vac hoses under your TB maybe hard, maybe split and a tad stretched out. So, before you wrap up your turbo install, you *might* want to do what I'm suggesting. Remove the TB, replace ALL vac hoses that are a royal PITA to access otherwise. This will add maybe two hours worth of aggravation, knuckle bruising but I think it's well worth the effort. If you have a kid with smaller and nimble hands, USE them.

I wanted go a step further and use a simple spring clamp with large ears, kind of like these from amazon but don't have the time:

So, I opted for all new vac hoses and safety wiring them at their connections. Some of the old hoses simply slid off easily while some of them were stuck. I replaced all vac hoses when I did the HG project many years so none of my hoses were rock hard but their ends were definitely stretched. I was afraid of any seepage under full boost so I went the safety wire route. I took pics but my phone did a system reset last night and I don't see my pics. I'll update this thread with pics if I can take some now that everything is installed up top

Here's the biggest offender found so far and I need to pressure test the system again today. BTW, that curved hose on the right side of the pic is around $20 with my usual Toyota discount . But, I didn't care and didn't want some generic metric hose from VatoZone.

Anyway, the point of this post is to make y'all aware of the aging vac lines that maybe contributing to slight leaks in your engine during normal operation but now that we have positive pressure, you may have bigger leaks.

I made a quick and crude video of finding boost leaks. . The smoke machine can be run with smoke or just air only as it has a built in air compressor. Even after I closed up all the leaks and no more smoke was coming out, the pressure gauge on the unit wasn't climbing so my guess is that the smoke is going into the engine via intake valves. However, simply unplugging any of the vac hoses from the nipple resulted in a sudden escape of pressure so a mild head pressure was getting built up in the vac system/intake.

 

[CJK]

This post may help others, while they wrap up their turbo install.

I'm currently investigating a boost leak (have yet to achieve 6psi) and borrowed a buddy's smoke machine that has a built in air compressor. I found few "seepage" and a big leak, as shown in the pic below. So, this necessitated the removal of the TB in order to find the leaks and replace all vac lines. Some of these vac hoses under your TB maybe hard, maybe split and a tad stretched out. So, before you wrap up your turbo install, you *might* want to do what I'm suggesting. Remove the TB, replace ALL vac hoses that are a royal PITA to access otherwise. This will add maybe two hours worth of aggravation, knuckle bruising but I think it's well worth the effort. If you have a kid with smaller and nimble hands, USE them.

I wanted go a step further and use a simple spring clamp with large ears, kind of like these from amazon but don't have the time:

View attachment 2662778

So, I opted for all new vac hoses and safety wiring them at their connections. Some of the old hoses simply slid off easily while some of them were stuck. I replaced all vac hoses when I did the HG project many years so none of my hoses were rock hard but their ends were definitely stretched. I was afraid of any seepage under full boost so I went the safety wire route. I took pics but my phone did a system reset last night and I don't see my pics. I'll update this thread with pics if I can take some now that everything is installed up top

Here's the biggest offender found so far and I need to pressure test the system again today. BTW, that curved hose on the right side of the pic is around $20 with my usual Toyota discount . But, I didn't care and didn't want some generic metric hose from VatoZone.

View attachment 2662784

Anyway, the point of this post is to make y'all aware of the aging vac lines that maybe contributing to slight leaks in your engine during normal operation but now that we have positive pressure, you may have bigger leaks.

Oh god that check valve replacement was a PITA.
Interestingly, that hose was also quite loose on mine, too. I will definitely replace it.

Thanks for the heads up.
Do you have the part # handy?

 

[alia176]

Oh god that check valve replacement was a PITA.
Interestingly, that hose was also quite loose on mine, too. I will definitely replace it.

Thanks for the heads up.
Do you have the part # handy?

Oh god that check valve replacement was a PITA.
Interestingly, that hose was also quite loose on mine, too. I will definitely replace it.

Thanks for the heads up.
Do you have the part # handy?

My receipt shows two hoses and I'm not sure which one is the curved one on the right.

90910-05217 HOSE LIST 26.49 NET 19.87
95337-06020 HOSE, FUEL LIST 21.00 NET 15.75

 

[alia176]

Another educational video on Turbos and boost from Gale Banks. Amazing what an intercooler does to HP!

 

[CJK]

Finished installing the turbo and gauge this morning. Still dumping the exhaust out after the downpipe so need to finish that last part.

A quick test drive up a 14% grade near me made it blatantly clear how amazing this kit is. Hit 7.5psi max, and the truck pulls like its never before. Usually the truck is slow and has to downshift to go up this same hill.



Turbo is noticeable after 2K RPM and feels like someone is pushing from behind

 

[scottryana]

Finished installing the turbo and gauge this morning. Still dumping the exhaust out after the downpipe so need to finish that last part.

A quick test drive up a 14% grade near me made it blatantly clear how amazing this kit is. Hit 7.5psi max, and the truck pulls like its never before. Usually the truck is slow and has to downshift to go up this same hill.



Turbo is noticeable after 2K RPM and feels like someone is pushing from behind

Good to hear, glad you like it!

 

[CJK]

Good to hear, glad you like it!

Game changer for this slow ass cruiser.

Thanks for helping with development and thanks to Joey for making this scalable to us folks that wouldn’t have done it.

 

[Tommysosa]

You guys just make me want mine more and more. Cant wait for that email from Joey telling me it’s shipped.

 

[alia176]

scroll down to the review section to get my thoughts on this turbo

80 Series 1FZ Wits' End Turbo Kit- OBD2 only

80 Series 1FZ Wits' End Turbo Kit- OBD2 only (WET-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

 

[Tommysosa]

scroll down to the review section to get my thoughts on this turbo

80 Series 1FZ Wits' End Turbo Kit- OBD2 only

80 Series 1FZ Wits' End Turbo Kit- OBD2 only (WET-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

I showed this to my wife shortly after I ordered mine. She thought it was hilarious and helped ease the pain of me spending the money on it. She said I have to keep the truck until I’m an old man so I’ll never need the blue pill.
After hearing all of you with your stories I think I may need to go to the hospital around 4 hours after I run the truck for the first time....more than 4 hours can be hazardous after all.

 

[CJK]

Couple Questions:

1) For those running wideband O2, did you connect your wideband O2 to ecu to replace the stock Narrowband sensor?

2) Did people put any sort of hose/filter on the top port of external wastegate that vents to atmosphere?

3) Now that I have a gauge to monitor stuff (Air-Fuel Ratio, Boost, Coolant Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Intake Air Temp, etc)...what should I be paying attention to as signals that s*** is going sideways?

I took a stab here, but please feel free to correct me if I'm dead ass wrong

1) Air-Fuel Ratio (Measured as Lambda)
- Ideal: 1.00
- Normal Range: 0.90 - 1.10
- Abnormal: <0.90 and >1.10

Notes
-- Avoid Lean conditions while under power ( Lean is defined as >1, but an issue when >1.10?)
-- Momentary blips normal
-- Extended time while in Lean conditions = no bueno

2) Boost Pressure
- Ideal <7.5 psi
- Normal: 0.0 - 7.5 psi
- Abnormal: >7.6 psi

Notes
-- Pressure should max out at 7.5psi due to external wastegate
-- Monitor because excessive boost can cause lean conditions = Heat

3) Coolant Temp
-- Ideal: <212F
-- Normal Range: 195 to 220F
-- Abnormal: >220F

 

[Dirty Koala]

Couple Questions:

1) For those running wideband O2, did you connect your wideband O2 to ecu to replace the stock Narrowband sensor?

2) Did people put any sort of hose/filter on the top port of external wastegate that vents to atmosphere?

3) Now that I have a gauge to monitor stuff (Air-Fuel Ratio, Boost, Coolant Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Intake Air Temp, etc)...what should I be paying attention to as signals that s*** is going sideways?

I took a stab here, but please feel free to correct me if I'm dead ass wrong

1) Air-Fuel Ratio (Measured as Lambda)
- Ideal: 1.00
- Normal Range: 0.90 - 1.10
- Abnormal: <0.90 and >1.10

Notes
-- Avoid Lean conditions while under power ( Lean is defined as >1, but an issue when >1.10?)
-- Momentary blips normal
-- Extended time while in Lean conditions = no bueno

2) Boost Pressure
- Ideal <7.5 psi
- Normal: 0.0 - 7.5 psi
- Abnormal: >7.6 psi

Notes
-- Pressure should max out at 7.5psi due to external wastegate
-- Monitor because excessive boost can cause lean conditions = Heat

3) Coolant Temp
-- Ideal: <212F
-- Normal Range: 195 to 220F
-- Abnormal: >220F

1) No, your wide band sensor goes directly to your AFR guage, don’t do anything with the stock ECU. If you were you get into a stand alone ECU like a haltec, then you would by hooking up a wideband for the ecu.

2) No filter on the wastegate. Absolutely no reason to.

3) Monitor your AFR until you get comfortable with the operation, then you can ignore it unless you start making changes to the wastegate springs.

Keep an eye on your coolant temps, but I would highly recommend using both a standalone guage/sensor and also running a scan guage or ultraguage so you can see what temp the ECU is reading from the factory temp sensor. Depending on where you placed your temp sensor, you can expect to see about a 15 degree higher reading on the aftermarket guage. This is particularly true if you installed your sensor in the aluminum water neck return boss. If you don’t also run the OBD2 guage, then you will go crazy thinking your have a cooling issue.

Oil pressure should be in the 30-60 range while operating and around 15 or so at idle.

You are correct about not wanting to be in a lean condition while under boost. The turbo selected pretty much ensures you won’t be under boost in a lean condition though. If you get 7.5 psi you’re in good shape, but you might see less than that. I max out at 6.2psi with my current configuration.

If you find you are having cooling issues, or excessive under hood temps, you can look in intercoolinf, hood venting and oil cooling...I have done all of the above.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

You don't want to be at lambda 1 (14.7:1 on petrol/gasoline) on boost. I'd personally be looking for early to mid 12s at a max and I run 11.8 on an XR6 turbo (Barra engine) that I muck around with because having trouble keeping IAT under control.

 

[CJK]

1) No, your wide band sensor goes directly to your AFR guage, don’t do anything with the stock ECU. If you were you get into a stand alone ECU like a haltec, then you would by hooking up a wideband for the ecu.

2) No filter on the wastegate. Absolutely no reason to.

3) Monitor your AFR until you get comfortable with the operation, then you can ignore it unless you start making changes to the wastegate springs.

Keep an eye on your coolant temps, but I would highly recommend using both a standalone guage/sensor and also running a scan guage or ultraguage so you can see what temp the ECU is reading from the factory temp sensor. Depending on where you placed your temp sensor, you can expect to see about a 15 degree higher reading on the aftermarket guage. This is particularly true if you installed your sensor in the aluminum water neck return boss. If you don’t also run the OBD2 guage, then you will go crazy thinking your have a cooling issue.

Oil pressure should be in the 30-60 range while operating and around 15 or so at idle.

You are correct about not wanting to be in a lean condition while under boost. The turbo selected pretty much ensures you won’t be under boost in a lean condition though. If you get 7.5 psi you’re in good shape, but you might see less than that. I max out at 6.2psi with my current configuration.

If you find you are having cooling issues, or excessive under hood temps, you can look in intercoolinf, hood venting and oil cooling...I have done all of the above.

thanks for the reply — great info on all accounts. This helps me as a turbo n00b and hopefully future turbo owners!

I am running an OBDII reader comparable to scan gauge for coolant temp so only reading what the ECU is reading at this time. Plan is to measure water temps close to where it comes out of block on path back to radiator. The oil temp sensor is already right near there so I can run both wires.

 

[mehbohdi]

1) no
2) no
3) haven't had any issue's with anything since installed, over year now.

My AFR idles at 14.5 - 6 : 1 full throttle I've seen 10.8 : 1. Highest boost I've seen is 7.5. I'm planning to install a AEM 3 port boost control in future to have ability to incrementally up the boost (different springs change to much to fast). It's more to see how far I can go with stock ECU. Beyond on that it's just $$$$

 

[alia176]

Couple Questions:

1) For those running wideband O2, did you connect your wideband O2 to ecu to replace the stock Narrowband sensor?

2) Did people put any sort of hose/filter on the top port of external wastegate that vents to atmosphere?

3) Now that I have a gauge to monitor stuff (Air-Fuel Ratio, Boost, Coolant Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Intake Air Temp, etc)...what should I be paying attention to as signals that s*** is going sideways?

I took a stab here, but please feel free to correct me if I'm dead ass wrong

1) Air-Fuel Ratio (Measured as Lambda)
- Ideal: 1.00
- Normal Range: 0.90 - 1.10
- Abnormal: <0.90 and >1.10

Notes
-- Avoid Lean conditions while under power ( Lean is defined as >1, but an issue when >1.10?)
-- Momentary blips normal
-- Extended time while in Lean conditions = no bueno

2) Boost Pressure
- Ideal <7.5 psi
- Normal: 0.0 - 7.5 psi
- Abnormal: >7.6 psi

Notes
-- Pressure should max out at 7.5psi due to external wastegate
-- Monitor because excessive boost can cause lean conditions = Heat

3) Coolant Temp
-- Ideal: <212F
-- Normal Range: 195 to 220F
-- Abnormal: >220F

I currently have a boost gauge for some troubleshooting purposes and as soon as I'm certain that I'm achieving max boost when I want, I'm going to remove it. At this point, I don't want any gauges to look at it. Just wanna take care of her and flog the piss out of her w/o abandon.

 

[Ronny Grady]

+1

ive run the turbo kit 18 months now, almost 15k miles, lots of trips to the Sierras, Utah, Nevada.

I never ran any aftermarket gauges. 275k miles on the truck, original head gasket. Live life, taste death. I have aaa

Damn the turbo makes the truck a pleasure on the interstate.

 

[alia176]

Amen Brother Ronny......