Windshield Frame Adjustment (1 Viewer)

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Millardo

'72 FJ40
Joined
Sep 7, 2011
Threads
57
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493
Location
Long Beach, CA
Website
forum.ih8mud.com
Read the threads, didn't really see an answer.

I need the windshield to back about a half an inch to close the gap between the upper section of the door and the frame. Both sides same amount. Both doors line up perfectly everywhere else. What I don't remember when installing the windshield frame over 5 years ago, is whether there is some adjustment where the frame hinges mount. Like floating nuts... And if so, on which side of the hinge if not both.

The dash knobs are tightened down to the spacers, and it's not easy. I don't think shortening the spacers will get me there. I remember thinking the windshield frame gasket was really thick at the time of assembly, but figured it was stock. Before restoration I also remember having trouble getting the windshield frame back far enough to get under the lip of the hardtop. I would have a friend push back on it hard to get it under the lip.

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In this picture, the space I'm talking about is where the piece of grey foam is...
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IMG_0984.jpg
 
The PO shortened one of those spacers to get the hardtop to fit - and you can make a new one from a shock absorber sleeve, too. So, don't be too afraid to modify it as needed. You can leave out the spacer (temporarily) to figure out what gaskets may be binding or getting weird on you.
 
It is probably because you are in a Chevy only spot.:bang:
It doesnt look like it can move any more. The gasket looks real good.
Can you give a better pic. of the gap?

Why is that guy tied up?:wrench:
 
There are floating nuts in the body, but not in the windshield frame. Raising the frame up slightly may let it tip back more.

That's what I was thinking... Just raising slightly would take some of the bind out of it. So floating nuts on the tub side of the hinge.
 
There's not much adjustability in the windshield hinges. Are you sure you have the correct gasket in there and oriented correctly?

I'm not completely sure it's an original gasket. Can someone give me a thickness measurement on a stock one? I remember thinking it was really thick. But the cut-outs for the defrost looked really good. Meaning I doubt someone else cut those oval holes so nicely.
 
I do think shortening the sleeves will work - I had the opposite problem recently, and two fender washers' thickness (~4mm) on top of the gasket was enough to move the windshield forward by at least a 1cm at the top - not having measured, I think it was even more

that means if you can cinch the gasket down by another 1-2 mm that should get you there
 
I do think shortening the sleeves will work - I had the opposite problem recently, and two fender washers' thickness (~4mm) on top of the gasket was enough to move the windshield forward by at least a 1cm at the top - not having measured, I think it was even more

that means if you can cinch the gasket down by another 1-2 mm that should get you there

You're probably right. I wonder how much pressure that bracket can take before it starts to distort.

Has anyone tightened theirs down to much, and had a problem?
 
Hiya, I discovered this same problem when putting the soft top frame on for a fit. I removed the lower gasket, and then filed a bit off the body bolt holes to allow for a more acute angle. It seems to have worked but I won't really know till I put the frame back on later this week. Best regards, ty

:beer:
 
You're probably right. I wonder how much pressure that bracket can take before it starts to distort.

Has anyone tightened theirs down to much, and had a problem?

mine is the OEM original and is probably as flat as they get after 40 years in the Southwest (which is why I needed the washers) - it doesn't really get distorted, as it has no place to go; at least I can't see where to

you only need a mm or two

I wouldn't file on the body or the windshield itself, though
 

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