which truck to put 13BT into (2 Viewers)

[rutbeer]

Hey, cool stuff. I got my fj60 tie rod in yesterday only to find out that the tie rod ends are the same thread. What that means is that in order to convert a RHD tie rod into a LHD tie rod, you only need the one end that has the relay rod attached to it. The only difference between the LHD and RHD is the orientation of the taper in the tie rod end the captures the relay. Cool. As someone else said...Mr. potato head Toyota. Why make two parts different when you only have to make one.

 

[rutbeer]

Temp tie rod

Well, I had to splice the two together for GSMTR. I really didn't want to go through all that, but it did seem to work out well. Cut a minitruck rod and the 60 series rod. I "machined" the end of the minitruck rod to fit inside the 60 rod. I put the torch on the 60 rod and got the end hot, then hammered the mini rod in for a tight fit. Even before welding, I couldn't get them to even twist let alone wiggle. After welding, I realized I had actually put the wrong end of the mini rod on....doh! Oh well, it was temporary anyway. 60 series power steering will be part of the deal so, I'll be changing the rod anyway.

 

[rutbeer]

stupid fuel question

Okay, stupid question time. Yes, I have looked through the manual, but I missed this somewhere under the fuel section. As GregB states, the 13b-t should return a lot of fuel to the tank, but I can't seem to find the stupid fuel lines. I see where they run from the filter to the pump, and where the primer pump is, etc...but I don't see any lines that look like they run to and from the tank. Can anyone mark up the photo for me to show where to look?
Most of what I can trace out are obviously coolant lines and vacuum lines.
It makes me wonder if the guy that pulled the motor took the line off the inlet and pushed it over the return line and made it a closed loop for shipping.

 

[Greg_B]

It makes me wonder if the guy that pulled the motor took the line off the inlet and pushed it over the return line and made it a closed loop for shipping.

Yes, that is what you are looking at. The rubber line (with the slider/protector over the main line) that connects to the inlet side of the primer/mech fuel pump and then goes up and connects to the line at the top of the injection pump. The lower connection is your fuel supply, and the upper line is your return to the fuel tank.

hth's...

Must feel nice to be getting closer and closer!

gb

 

[rutbeer]

That's what my thought was...it made more sense even as I was posting that picture, but glad to hear it confirmed.
Yeah, I wouldn't say I'm getting "close", but the engine looks WAY different than it did. I've got a lot of the parts degreased and polished up the way toyota intended. But I'm still a long way from pulling the 2F. I'm going to try to test run the diesel motor here this week or next to see how it does. I don't have a compression adapter for this type of injector, so unfortunately, I have no idea what shape it's in. I was thinking it might make sense to go ahead and replace the main bearing though....since the motor is out. That, and I guess look at the clutch and throw out bearings/pilot.

 

[Greg_B]

I was thinking it might make sense to go ahead and replace the main bearing though....since the motor is out. That, and I guess look at the clutch and throw out bearings/pilot.

Personally, I would not bother with touching the BEB's on the 13BT. Make sure all new hoses, water pump, t-stat, pilot bearing, t/o bearing, check clutch and pp...then run it. If you really want to start fresh get the injectors checked/re-tipped at a minimum then have the turbo rebuilt.

hth's

gb

 

[rutbeer]

didn't you have your turbo jet-hot ceramic coated? Or was that someone else?

 

[Radd Cruisers]

I think that was Sheldon, not a cheap operation by any means, but very good idea IMO.

Rob

didn't you have your turbo jet-hot ceramic coated? Or was that someone else?

 

[rutbeer]

squeaky clean

Look what surfaced from the grime of the parts washer. Pretty spiffy. Honestly, it looks as if it was never actually used.

 

[crushers]

i want to see this truck in person...
sweet job.
cheers

 

[Greg_B]

didn't you have your turbo jet-hot ceramic coated? Or was that someone else?

Nope, we've had the exhaust manifold ceramic coated for a few customers, as well as the dumps. When I need a turbo rebuilt I will have the hotside coated while it is all apart.

hth's

gb

 

[R2HKS]

Nope, we've had the exhaust manifold ceramic coated for a few customers, as well as the dumps. When I need a turbo rebuilt I will have the hotside coated while it is all apart.

hth's

gb

I highly recommend this! We just had a mates Skyline GTR turbo's coated. The last set was silver ceramic coated, however, the coating ended up cracking because it couldn't handle the heat. This time he went with Competition Coatings highest heat rated coating. This coating is flat black, unlike the chrome appearance of the last time it was done.

Also don't just get the "hot" turbine side coated. If you have the turbo apart get the turbine side coated in the highest temp coating you can get as I suggested. Get the "cold" compressor side coated in the fancy chrome finish ceramic coating. The idea is to keep as much heat as possible retained in the turbine side. This increases the gas velocity, can help the turbo spool faster, and drastically lowers underbonnet temps to help avoid heatsoak to other components including the compressor. The compressor side however you want to reflect the heat and not retain heat.

Also while your there, send off the turbo manifold to get coated, again using the black highest tempt coating. This coating is so effective a guy could touch it with his fingers after a quarter mile pass, without permanently leaving his fingerprints attached, its very impressive, though I wouldn't recommend trying it though this did happen. Get the dump pipe coated as well.

The net result is you make or retain you turbo's efficiency and increase gas flow which should also aid in lowering the EGT's, aid in spool up and reduce turbo lag.

 

[okie]

I think you are going to be happy what ever you do.

I'm pretty sure adding the 13BT will increase the value of either. The purists will cringe if it goes into the 45 but the market will pay more for the the rig with it in.

Being one who appreciates purists but modifies nearly everything I'd recommend putting the diesel in the 40 in spite of agreeing with most of what crushers said and the only reason is the wheeling. I'm sure you're going to take whatever rig gets the diesel further than you ever would previously for events etc. My GF and I think nothing of jumping in her 13BT powered 40 series for a thousand mile trip. The 13BT makes the wheeling even more fun once we get there. If that powerplant was in the 45 its inevitable that its going to see rock rash sooner than later. Its easier to avoid in the 40 and easier to fix.

I have to say, however, a 13BT in a 45 would be ultra cool. Rob got me thinking about the vac shifter... the 45 would have had it stock. Stratospheric super coolness would be achieved if you and 66LWB45 got together and figured out how to column shift an h55f.

ur a genious!!! that WOULD be bad!

 

[Japan4X4]

It makes me wonder if the guy that pulled the motor took the line off the inlet and pushed it over the return line and made it a closed loop for shipping.

Is that not the way it must be done

 

[rutbeer]

Heehee... yes. Makes total sense now, but looking at for the first time ever, it was much different than a 2F carb and the manual was not clear enough for me to know. I just didn't want to bother the guy that sold it to me with stupid questions.

 

[rutbeer]

No, I'm not gone...just performing marital duties with a kitchen remodel. Priorities. So, now I have two 13B-T's to choose from and I have a vacuum t/case conversion in the works with a twin shifter linkage. This will be available in a kit when I'm done. I also finished up the PTO winch and got the 60 series powersteering box cleaned up and ready to go. Camera is down, so no pics yet. I have one trail ride next month before I tear it down and put the new motor in. I've been collecting parts for a LONG time and the rest should move pretty good when I have the calendar freed up again. Also working on a CND trailer project to haul the kitchen junk off....so that's been a neat distraction for a bit.

 

[rutbeer]

I'm back! The kitchen is DONE. Finally. Health problems, injuries, and money is tight, but I'm finally working on my truck again. I spent most of the night dismantling the 13b-t and cleaning it up. I can't stand all the freaking hoses all over the top of the motor, so those are being relocated. I'm going to paint the block and what not , but need to be able to get to it do so. I'm amazed at how well the aluminum is cleaning up though. Pics tomorrow......

 

[crushers]

excellent, keep us updated...

 

[rutbeer]

cleaning

Not to my standards of clean yet, but without all the coolant and vacuum lines running all over the top, it's getting better. I also plan to flip the throttle cable down the bottom side so that it doesn't cross over the top of the motor, so that bracketry is removed. The coolant lines and vac stuff will be figured out once I get the motor in and see how well things line up. It also depends on whether I go to a standard alt or if I keep the vacuum style. Putting a seperate vacuum pump on the intake side will eliminate the over or around the engine lines.

 

[Tapage]

Damn ! what a beautiful view !