which truck to put 13BT into

[rutbeer]

crossmember

This is Mainer7's 40 series crossmember. Since this required so little fab work, I really would like to go this route....but they seem to be hard to find at less than retail pricing.

The other shot is Mainer's install....it was the only thing handy at work that showed the pulley where I want to put the vacuum pump. It's on the left side of the pic.

 

[rutbeer]

Okay, found a BJ rear crossmember, but now I'm looking at the motor mounts. I can get 3B frame brackets and locate them on my frame, but I think they are too "narrow". Could 3B brackets be made to fit the 13B-T block, and therefore allow the factory 3b frame brackets to be located correctly? Does that make sense.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Okay, found a BJ rear crossmember, but now I'm looking at the motor mounts. I can get 3B frame brackets and locate them on my frame, but I think they are too "narrow". Could 3B brackets be made to fit the 13B-T block, and therefore allow the factory 3b frame brackets to be located correctly? Does that make sense.

always thought the 3B and 13B is the same block...
j

 

[rutbeer]

A few measurements to go with all that thinking.....
Frame rails on a 40 measure about 28.5" outside.
From what I can gather, my 13b-t out of a 70 measures about 20" wide to the narrowest part of the motor mounts. The widest part comes in around 24". That being said, the inside of the frame rails where the brackets are lined up should be right at 23.5". I think that might actually work.

 

[rutbeer]

mount pics

But, looking at Mainer's mounts, my measurements appear to be off somewhere. His looks wider by two inches on both sides. So...back to the original question, would the 3B motor side brackets correct this?

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Hmm, not sure that looks like it would work properly.

Thinking the force ont he motor mounts in the wrong direction, plus it would interfere with the steering linkage.

Finding some very short motor mounts from a 3B would inboard those mounts and distribute the forces properly.


Rob

 

[rutbeer]

Well, he used V8 conversion brackets and I'm not doing that. I'm really looking more at the relationship of the rubber motor mount (factory part) in relation to the frame. From what I can tell, the 3B frame parts would be too narrow to meet up with the factory 13BT rubber mount.

 

[Frenchy]

I All !!!!

here my Blog, or there is an assembly of turbo on a 3b and an assembly of 13bt ...

good reading


http://serie4.skyblog.com/

 

[rutbeer]

Interesting. Not much reading there though, just some nice pictures. Since you didn't take pictures of relocated motor mounts or steering box, did all of that work?

 

[Frenchy]

it is one 42 of origin, they is thus same the fixing of engine and gearbox

much easier than your modification

 

[beanz2]

Barry, about the chassis to motor mount gap, could the chassis be under some sort of tension? I know when I had to remove my tranny crossmember, the bolt holes are about 2 cm away from the crossmember holes and I had to use a Porta Power to bring them into alignment. I am thinking other items that attach to both frame rails such as bumpers, etc. may cause the rails to get out of alignment somewhat. Hope the cruiser hasn't been in a rollover or accident.

Dave

 

[rutbeer]

????? Don't know what you are talking about. Let me sum up. The 13BT I have was never in a 40, it was in a 70. 70 series frame rails are wider than a 40, so the motor "arms" are longer than a 3B (my theory). I don't have a gap necessarily, I was just wondering if I could use 3B frame mounts, 3b motor "arms" and not have to fab anything up other than welding or bolting the frame mounts in the correct place. To further solidify that, I know the springs are wider on the suspension, because I just cut and rewelded the spring perches on the full floater rear. If I have time, I'll do the front tomorrow.

 

[rutbeer]

rear axle perches for cable lockers

Here's what I did today. These pics show the original location, then removed and welded 1/2" closer to the diff.

 

[rutbeer]

vacuum conversion

Still cleaning parts in the washer, but getting ready to reassemble the rear end this weekend and put some fresh paint on it. In the meantime, still trying to gather all the parts I need for the conversion. Thank you CruiserDan for helping the with the t/case shifter info. Thought I would post this up for everyone.

The first picture is of a manual shift from an 86 FJ60 split case. The second picture is what most JDM vacuum cases look like. In order to do a correct conversion, you need all the parts on the first picture except for the hi/lo shift fork and shaft.

 

[rutbeer]

The front axle is actually a completely different story from the rear axle. In fact, the perches are only 1/2" wider overall, or 1/4" per side that the perches need to be moved. With that little of movement, I'm thinking I will leave them where they are and see if it will work out as is. But, doing all that measuring, I noticed that 70 series front axles don't have the shock mounts on them....so I'll need to find a shock mount from another axle to weld on. Anyone have some?

 

[rutbeer]

Also interesting....what the heck are these bent brackets on the rear axle for? They don't really look like Toyota.

 

[rutbeer]

Oops...pic

 

[smcruisin]

the vertical 'blade'-shaped tab with two holes is for the ebrake cable assembly (as well as the single, horizontal with one hole that comes off the rear of the axle. (the two C-shaped brackets... I have no idea)

 

[Tapage]

turning stops . ?

 

[rutbeer]

Nah, I was referring to the two little brackets on top of the rear axle in that last picture. It looks like the previous owner had lifted this truck and was using those as a space for the load proportioning device or similar.