which truck to put 13BT into (2 Viewers)

[rutbeer]

Okay...no response. Well, how about this question then.

Why are there three heater hoses on a 13B-T, but only 2 on a 3B, 2F, etc?
I have one hose that comes off the back of the block/head, then the other two come off the water pump in and out. I doubt I need all three, so which one can be capped off or should be tee'd into one of the others?

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

What about for the front/rear heater? Doesn't the heaters use the outlet off the cylinder head from a F-series engine? Is there one on the head of the 13BT? If not, is this the solution to that? Might be a nice way to cool a turbo upgrade down the road if you can't use it in the present time.

 

[rutbeer]

An F series heater is fueled by the return heater hose off the radiator, then it's returned to the system via the head.
The 13B-t has a feed off the water pump inlet and outlet....and ALSO had the head connection. I suppose it could be for a rear heater...but which one should capped off if I'm not using a rear heater?

Good progress otherwise though. The greasy 2F is in the drive and the engine bay is being stripped and cleaned.

 

[Snailtrail]

Hey mate, ive never seen under the bonnet of a BJ74, but i have a 13BT sitting in the shed, so i know the the hoses your talking about.

I remember looking at the steel pipes/heater hoses when i got the engine, and thinking, where the hell do they go...

Ive just been looking at the EPC trying to figure out the layout of the various hoses. It appears that the two steel pipes (one above the intake manifold, one below) feed the front heater unit, with the lower joining up to the heater control valve/tap.

The other two outlets (one in the rear of the head, intake side, and the another near the front of the head, exhaust side by the power steering pump bracket) seem to feed the rear heater.

Well, thats how i think they go... the diagram isnt that clear. Maybe post a question in the 70 series section, theres bound to be a few 74 owners there that can confirm the hose layout.

Have you decided which 13BT to use? Must be nice having the choice of two!!!

 

[rutbeer]

Yeah, the blue one. I pulled the transfer apart on it and it's like NEW. I have never seen a t/case that clean on the inside. Given that, the mileage must be for real....so blue block it is. Just more cosmetic work needed on that one than the other...but no big deal.

Hey, does your clutch slave cylinder have a return spring on it? Neither of mine do, and that's pretty odd compared to the F series engines, which all have them.

 

[Snailtrail]

No, my red block 13BT doesnt have the return spring either. I checked the EPC and it shows the BJ60/61 having the spring up untill the 11/84 but not after. The bj7#, starting on the 11/84, never had the spring.

I've always wondered why my 03/85 BJ61 had the larger alloy bellhousing (identical to the BJ74 one) instead of the smaller cast iron one. 11/84 must've been the change over date for the bellhousing...

Sounds like you scored a good package there, its always a good feeling when you strip a engine/gearbox and find it mint inside

 

[rutbeer]

Slid the motor in last night for a test fit. Old motor mounts on the frame have to go....I was hoping not to, but they are definitely in the way. I also moved the fuel lines to the other side of the frame. Very easy to do, just unbolt, tweak two bends, then rebolt on the other side. This will put the fuel next to the pump like it should be.

 

[grumpy]

Slid the motor in last night for a test fit. Old motor mounts on the frame have to go....I was hoping not to, but they are definitely in the way. I also moved the fuel lines to the other side of the frame. Very easy to do, just unbolt, tweak two bends, then rebolt on the other side. This will put the fuel next to the pump like it should be.

Rutbeer .

Just put my 13/55f into my 45 ,and yes the mounts are in the wrong place .But more to the point ,even if you move them ,they'll still be the wrong profile .Ask a friendly Canuck to send some BJ 40 frame mounts for the motor .While they're at it ,ask them for the gearbox mounts from a 60 and just shorten the middle piece on the left side .Of course a set from a 40/42 would work .

Where you put the mounts depends if you want to run a stock front shaft that you already have .
Mines coil sprung ,so I'm using a 60 A440 front shaft .Longer slip and perfect length .


HTH
grumpy
​

 

[grumpy]

Yeah, that sounds like a good idea. I'll try that when the bellhousing(s) are back on. Thanks

I pulled the trannies off both motors and inspected the clutch condition, flywheel, pilot bearing, and "slop" in the trannies.
This is now the big question that I'm really having a hard time with....which MOTOR to use.

Okay, so I have NOT done a compression test....I don't have the special tool for this motor. I suspect that they will test nearly identical based on running and overall low km and good shape. Outside of that, it's very hard to tell which one is actually a better motor to install. I know the blue one is "newer" but cosmetically, it does not look it, and I can't really tell that there are much of any differences between the two motors. I can see a few little things, but overall, they don't jump out as being clearly different.

Is there an advantage to using one over the other in the USA for parts availability?

Main unseen difference between red/blue is that the blue uses roller lifters .Supprised that your blue doesn't have a gear driven vacuum pump .Every blue that I've seen has gear driven PS and vacuum pump .My red has gear driven PS but no vacuum .I chose the red for the inline pump .
As for parts in the U.S. can't help sorry .
Compression tool ,just use an old injector and mod it .Works for me .The injectors red/blue wont swap .They will fit but the VE pump ones will have a filter on the injector ,remove the pipe and you can see it .Some blues did come with inline pumps but I haven't seen many .

grumpy

 

[rutbeer]

Grumpy, I do have the 3b frame and motor mounts that I'll be using. I was just going to see if removal of the old mounts was still necessary....it is. They are in the way.

My blue block has an inline injection pump. Maybe you are thinking of 14B engines?

 

[grumpy]

Grumpy, I do have the 3b frame and motor mounts that I'll be using. I was just going to see if removal of the old mounts was still necessary....it is. They are in the way.

My blue block has an inline injection pump. Maybe you are thinking of 14B engines?

Rutbeer ,

If your blue block has the inline pump and no gear driven PS pump it likely started in a cruiser .
Dynas for some reason seem to use the VE pump on the blues .
This applies to OZ and YMMV .14B usually pull the top off a piston at about the 400,000 km mark ,just seems to be the nature of the beast .I've rebuilt enough of them .


grumpy

 

[rutbeer]

test fitting the motor

Spent some time yesterday removing the old motor mounts off the frame so I could put the motor in the second time (two more times still coming). I put the 3B motor mount arms on the block and tried to fit up with the bj71 rubber mounts....no go. I guess the 3b rubber mounts are more like the 2F and do not offset the bolts in the rubber. So for temporary blocking, I used the old 2F hockey pucks so I could position the frame mounts.

 

[rutbeer]

More

Firewall clearance

 

[rutbeer]

starter clearance

Steering box MUST be removed, as the starter definitely encroaches in the space. I had already heard this, but wanted to see for myself just how tight it was.

 

[rutbeer]

crossmember problem

Ran into a snag with the crossmember I got out of a BJ42. The crossmember is angled where the rubber mount sits, but a BJ71 crossmember is FLAT in this area. I will need to find a different tranny rubber mount off of a BJ40 or 42...heck, even a 2f one would probably work off a 81 or later.

 

[rutbeer]

throttle mods

I started looking at the throttle pedal, and deciding what to do. I think that I'm going to take the BJ71 pedal and bend it a bit so that things line up where I want. There is this funny switch on my pedal that I call the nitrous switch. It does something to the 2F when you floor it. I decided I won't be needing that.
But the holes for the mount are really close to where the new pedal falls and the actual cable mounts to the firewall. I think a little drilling and wedging and I'll be golden.

 

[rutbeer]

radiator mods

The stock radiator will need to be modded some. I don't know if I feel like using the BJ71 or the 2F radiator.....I guess whichever looks like less work overall. You can see that the shroud is close, but not quite. Okay, actually, it's no where even close....... I suppose the stock BJ71 shroud may be a better fit, but I haven't pulled it down out of storage yet.

 

[rutbeer]

last pic today

I have also been really going at the BLUE block and cleaning it up. The motor currently in the frame is the red one, but I'm just using it for a mockup while the blue block is disassembled. It still needs the accessories put back on and a little touch up paint near the injectors, but it did clean up pretty well.


Oh, and the air cleaner. Again from a BJ71 or 4, not sure. I will need to drill some spot welds to relocate the brackets, but it shouldn't be that bad.

 

[Tapage]

Nice dude .. beauty Engine .. thanks for sharing with us ..

Definately you need to take care about this fan shroud .. are not enought.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Are you mounting the 13BT using the same motor mounts as the 3B? How about using a BJ42's Radiator Fan Shroud? I don't think you'll have too much trouble finding one. Even if you're mounting the engine farther forward... you should be okay by trimming the depth of the shroud a bit.