rutbeer said:
...that makes sense, because the lower bracket welded to the frame is a stock part. I guess it's obvious how much lift the P.O. had....
which truck to put 13BT into (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rutbeer
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...that makes sense, because the lower bracket welded to the frame is a stock part. I guess it's obvious how much lift the P.O. had....
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
rutbeer said:
ok .. !
- Thread starter
- #63
front axle shock mounts
Well, nobody was interested in selling me their's....so I made my own. Take two pieces of steel, and two upper shock mount bolts, and PRESTO! New shock mounts. I'm moving slowly on this, but it is moving.
Well, nobody was interested in selling me their's....so I made my own. Take two pieces of steel, and two upper shock mount bolts, and PRESTO! New shock mounts. I'm moving slowly on this, but it is moving.
- Thread starter
- #64
rear axle width
Slow going, but I got the rear axle installed today. There is a difference in driveshaft flanges, so I need to rotate and drill the pinion flange for it to work. I'll be using the 70 series driveshafts ultimately, but for now I need to make it work. I haven't looked yet, but I may be able to make a temporary hybrid shaft just to avoid the drilling. The other thing needing a small amount of fab work is the brake line mount where the flex mount and the axle breather tie in. The 70 series apparently has a rear load brake line, whereas the 40 series is a forward facing brake line. No big deal, just another thing to do. In this photo you can see about how much wider the 70 series is from the 40.
Slow going, but I got the rear axle installed today. There is a difference in driveshaft flanges, so I need to rotate and drill the pinion flange for it to work. I'll be using the 70 series driveshafts ultimately, but for now I need to make it work. I haven't looked yet, but I may be able to make a temporary hybrid shaft just to avoid the drilling. The other thing needing a small amount of fab work is the brake line mount where the flex mount and the axle breather tie in. The 70 series apparently has a rear load brake line, whereas the 40 series is a forward facing brake line. No big deal, just another thing to do. In this photo you can see about how much wider the 70 series is from the 40.
rutbeer said:
Slow but sure. You will appreciate it all the more when it is done then!
While the axle housing might be slightly wider, the inner axles are exactly the same between the later 4* series and the 7* series.
I had heard some talk the axle housings might be the same too, however your picture seems to lay that to rest. Are the WMS on the other side (not in the picture) lined up on the same plane?
Thanks
gb
- Thread starter
- #66
more axle width
Yes, it's lined up on the right side when I took the photo on the left. The picture is deceiving, but it is lined up. What axle shafts are you referring to? The front perhaps? The rear axles are WAY different, just because it's a full floater. It's interesting, but when the tires are back on you really can't tell they are wider. The big test will be seeing if my swampers will still clear the stock fenders. They were tight before, so .5 inch may cause them to rub a bit. The front should be fine.
By the way, the only front rotors I can get from Toyota don't have the bolt holes in them like the original one's do. The dealer says the part number is correct, but the rotors are different. Subtle, but different.
Yes, it's lined up on the right side when I took the photo on the left. The picture is deceiving, but it is lined up. What axle shafts are you referring to? The front perhaps? The rear axles are WAY different, just because it's a full floater. It's interesting, but when the tires are back on you really can't tell they are wider. The big test will be seeing if my swampers will still clear the stock fenders. They were tight before, so .5 inch may cause them to rub a bit. The front should be fine.
By the way, the only front rotors I can get from Toyota don't have the bolt holes in them like the original one's do. The dealer says the part number is correct, but the rotors are different. Subtle, but different.
- Thread starter
- #67
motor mounts
Got these in the mail on Friday. Thanks Mike! I need to sandblast and paint, but it all looks to be in pretty good shape. Looking at the motor mount, you can see where it "should" bolt to the 13B-T block, but it appears I will need to drill and tap these in order to do that. The idea here is to have a "bolt-in" 13B-T install instead of fabbing up everything.
Got these in the mail on Friday. Thanks Mike! I need to sandblast and paint, but it all looks to be in pretty good shape. Looking at the motor mount, you can see where it "should" bolt to the 13B-T block, but it appears I will need to drill and tap these in order to do that. The idea here is to have a "bolt-in" 13B-T install instead of fabbing up everything.
rutbeer said:
Yes, sorry. Front and rears in fact, however with the SF vs FF difference. Try typing in 42312-60042 and see the applications (FF LH rear axle) Runs right from the 1979 FJ4*, 55, HJ45, BJ4* to the 1998 FZJ7*, HZJ7* and many others. Also try 42312-60070 for the SF rear LH axle; Same thing. Same idea for the front inner axles. The outers of course (birfields) are the same per common knowledge.
Back to regular programming...which truck to put a 13BT in. My BJ60 will be sporting a 13BT soon. I too look forward to it.
What year is the tranny bracket off of? Your aluminum bellhousing will be clocked slighty off center, as compared the the cast iron bellhousings, which will orient your transmission supports slighty off. I suggest mounting everything 1st, to make sure the transmission sits as it wants, before blasting and painting. You can then modify if required pre-paint.
Keep the updates coming.
gb
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #69
Front axle
More slow progress. I got the 70 series axle fitted up last night. It will indeed drop onto the springs without any real effort and without moving the perches in. The real challenges present themselves with the TRE's. The 70 series is huge compared to the 40 series, and I'm not sure the center arm will accept being reamed for a 70 series TRE. I suppose if I have to go 60 series power steering, none of that will matter, but I'm trying to avoid that at this point.
More slow progress. I got the 70 series axle fitted up last night. It will indeed drop onto the springs without any real effort and without moving the perches in. The real challenges present themselves with the TRE's. The 70 series is huge compared to the 40 series, and I'm not sure the center arm will accept being reamed for a 70 series TRE. I suppose if I have to go 60 series power steering, none of that will matter, but I'm trying to avoid that at this point.
- Thread starter
- #70
Looking back at that picture, I had to laugh. What I need is a "split cone" type washer that will fit inside the 70 series ream and accept the 40 series TRE. That would be a sweet temporary solution if one was actually made. I'm sure that's a bad idea though....
- Thread starter
- #72
How does that connect up to the steering column though? All toyota, or is it booty-fab parts? I'm starting to lean that way....would solve the dilemma of what to hook that 13BT power steering pump to. 
- Thread starter
- #73
Looks like a mini truck TRE will fit AND thread into the relay rod. I'll check that tomorrow night, but that would sure be a quick fix.
- Thread starter
- #74
front axle installed
I still have a few minor details on the steering to work out, but no big deal. I'll start running the cable this week. Here's what it looks like with the 70 axles installed.
I still have a few minor details on the steering to work out, but no big deal. I'll start running the cable this week.
Here's what it looks like with the 70 axles installed.
- Thread starter
- #75
tire stick out
Just about perfect on the stance too.
Just about perfect on the stance too.
- Thread starter
- #76
Blah...hardest part yet. Where to run the cable to? I "could" put them where the stock ebrake is, but thenI have to use the hand brake and locating that will be as difficult as the cable positions in this early tub. I could mount the controls upside down under the center console, but that conflicts a bit with the seat frames and stuff. I think the cables are plenty long to put just about anywhere, but they need to look "factory" and be easily accesible. Dave mentioned upside down under the seat rails, but I'm not sure how that really works out. I have seen Beanz2's photos of his setup, but he has them mounted where the PTO shifter is....which I will have too. The factory PTO shift appears to line up perfectly where the stock location would be. Thoughts? Pics?
crushers
post ho
what i did on one rig was mount the hand brake outside of the drivers seat on the floor, it worked damn fine and looked good as well.
sorry i never took any pics of the install.
congrats on the progress.
cheers
sorry i never took any pics of the install.
congrats on the progress.
cheers
- Thread starter
- #78
Funny you should mention that....I did exactly that same thing last night. I was wondering how much clearance you wind up with when the doors are on and closed, but it does look like it might work out nicely there. I hate to cut holes in the floor instead of in the tunnel, but you gotta do what you gotta do sometimes. Did you space it up off the floor some and just drills a few holes, or did you cut a slot for the "cam" of the handbrake? I still have to find a cable for the rear axle anyway, so no big hurry to figure this out I guess.
crushers
post ho
i used the orginal "bucket" for the cam and just cut the rectangle, drilled the 4 holes and bolted the thing in.
it works well.
cheers
it works well.
cheers
- Thread starter
- #80
controls installed
More slow progress today....it was sweet weather, so I had to work on it.
One pin was missing, so I had to make a replacement. Can you tell which isn't original? I just took some piano wire and bent up a new one...not too shabby, but not perfect. I also cut some temporary brackets out to mount the controls. I was planning on mounting the controls where the standard hand brake control goes under the dash, but I need to wait on that until the final accelerator linkage is in place so I can see what I'm dealing with. In the meantime, I just mounted it upside down on the tunnel. I made two brackets to attach the control the seat frame, then cut in a path for the cables. The
previous owner(s) cut the original floor out and put in a flat steel one, so I didn't mind cutting into it. Again, I'll be replacing that floor too, but these brackets are just temporary so I can go to GSMTR next month. The lockers work pretty well....maybe just a touch stiff. I guess I should have pulled everything apart and lubed those up before the install. Oh well. Another lesson learned. Oh, and I still have room to mount a center console...which is nice.
More slow progress today....it was sweet weather, so I had to work on it.
One pin was missing, so I had to make a replacement. Can you tell which isn't original? I just took some piano wire and bent up a new one...not too shabby, but not perfect. I also cut some temporary brackets out to mount the controls. I was planning on mounting the controls where the standard hand brake control goes under the dash, but I need to wait on that until the final accelerator linkage is in place so I can see what I'm dealing with. In the meantime, I just mounted it upside down on the tunnel. I made two brackets to attach the control the seat frame, then cut in a path for the cables. The
previous owner(s) cut the original floor out and put in a flat steel one, so I didn't mind cutting into it. Again, I'll be replacing that floor too, but these brackets are just temporary so I can go to GSMTR next month. The lockers work pretty well....maybe just a touch stiff. I guess I should have pulled everything apart and lubed those up before the install. Oh well. Another lesson learned. Oh, and I still have room to mount a center console...which is nice.
