which truck to put 13BT into (1 Viewer)

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roscoFJ73 said:
Rob ,where did you finally put the vac canister for the brake booster.

Did your 1HZ have a vac line attached to the water pump?
Just curious as the vac line attached to the water pump is not mentioned in my manuals but thats how they go.(1HZ 0nly)

Rutbeer ,they are both gonna end up diesls,so whats it matter which is 1st:rolleyes::cool:


Been driving it with only vacume being made without canister and I have had no problem.

I was thinking of adding one, so far I have pumped the brakes several times to see if it gets hard to brake but it does not change.

Rob
 
crushers said:
a HDT would be hot...

Oh ya baby, that would be the shizzzzz.

After driving down the highway in my 81 today and feeling the acceleration from 40km to 140, its awsome.

I am going to go have a little race with my buddy in his 1995 FZJ80, pretty confident I will kick is butt.
 
Radd Cruisers said:
You would need more like 3 inches over on the frame, I could not make it fit without cutting into the frame.

You made me go crawl under it with my good cloths on(actually I had to know).

Exactly 1.25inches of space on PTO side, with less than 1 inch on vacume side.

Maybe the older style transfercase was physically a tad smaller or the vacume setup was different.

So as for a newer split case assembly it would not fit.

Rob
since this is the case then i would STRONGLY suggest finding a proper manual front half case and linkage...
i wonder what the JDM 83-84 BJ42/46 has in the frame... they came with vacumm actuated split t/case and optional PTO...
 
crushers said:
since this is the case then i would STRONGLY suggest finding a proper manual front half case and linkage...
i wonder what the JDM 83-84 BJ42/46 has in the frame... they came with vacumm actuated split t/case and optional PTO...


Hmmmm, food for thought.

I did not know that, maybe it was mounted more forward????

Cause I quarrantee you we had the engine/ tranny lowered into the frame with no body and it was not going to fit.

And yes I would definitly get a factory manual shifter for the t-case. We gave it our best to build linkage etc for the case, its working flawlessly but as mentioned by Wayne it may wear the shift color or fork out.

Or not, time till tell as we only have around 1000KM on it.


Rob
 
hi everybody!

Well, put that damn motor in the 40, beter inter wheels angle, better rear angle, that 13BT with the lockers in the 40 would be an amazing rig, that would call for SOA too!

Best regards.

Max.
 
No spring over. I want it to look like it might have come from the factory that way. If you spring, then you have to put huge tires on to make it look right. I run 33x9.50 on the street and 34x10.50 on the trail....that' sabout as large as I want to go.
 
tlcruiserman said:
Hey Guys,

I have a simular question. I just picked up a short box 64' FJ45, it is minus the original F motor and comes with a Chevy V8, drivetrain and dana rear axle as well as the original. I am thinking about putting in the drivetrain from one of my 70 series that I just parted out. the usually 3B, H55F. So my question is this, should I stick with the 3B or think about something more like a 1HD-T or maybe (dare I say it) a Cummins 4B.

Michael

I think you should put the 3B in the FJ45, and Rutbeer should put his diesel in the 40. :)
 
Hey, looking at the 70 axles, the perches seem kind of high. In the process of grinding/cutting them off to relocate, is there any reason not to lower them a bit? The only one that might be an issue is the front on the diff side. Lowering the perches, assuming you can, would give you a very small increase in lift, no?
 
Oh yeah, I have to agree on that now. I took the 45 out to the grocery the other day and remembered just why I like it so much. It's SO different than the 40 and everything about it is old world. That's just too much fun to modernize, and too much of a shame to hack a great truck. Now that I have it running well again, I should be able to start the 40 swap when the house remodel is finished. :(
 
The FJ45 is way more unique than the FJ40 so I'd leave it alone too. A 1978 FJ40 OTOH is more common. Yeah, I'd leave the 45 alone.

Dave
 
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Parts

Almost done with the bath and kitchen remodel...then on to cleaning up my parts. Ugh...lots of cleaning to do.
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you know barry..you should prolly sell me those lousy crappy cable locker 3rd's too...just throw em in the crate with the hz....give you 100 bucks for em:grinpimp:
 
Vacuum pump

I'm considering converting this 13BT over to 12V and just keeping my 2F alternator. In order to do that, I would need another source for vacuum. My neighbor is a mechanic and knows a good bit about diesels (nice to find this out!) so I asked about the dilemma and he came up with this. I'll need to find somewhere to mount it, but at least it's an option other than an electric pump.
vacpump.jpg
 
rutbeer said:
I'm considering converting this 13BT over to 12V and just keeping my 2F alternator. In order to do that, I would need another source for vacuum. My neighbor is a mechanic and knows a good bit about diesels (nice to find this out!) so I asked about the dilemma and he came up with this. I'll need to find somewhere to mount it, but at least it's an option other than an electric pump.

what a luck men .. !!!! not only you can keep your 2F alternator also you con buy a mean green . !!!

So in summit I found one for about 250 USD . :eek:
 
Okay, I'm finally getting some time to start pulling this all together. I took a reality pill and realized there's no way that I'll have it done by GSMTR, so I'm going to leave the 2F in there until then. Meanwhile, I'm trying to find all the parts I need.

Looking at the vacuum pump I have, I think I could make something work on the driver's side where there is an idler pulley. I could make a bracket and use the pump there. That frees me up to make a bracket for the 2F alt. or find a 12V alt with the same flange pattern. Anyone know of one that works?

I have a 70 series crossmember on the way, but I think I'd rather have a 40 series if I can find one.
 

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