Wheel Bearings Service w/Pics (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TheForger
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You've always some of the best tools. Proto uses good USA steel, not that Chinese junk.
Red Beard
Cruisin'
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@flintknapper
I was able to find these on eBay, they don't look as long but they're the 250g model.
I was able to find these on eBay, they don't look as long but they're the 250g model.
Proto J250G 9" Carbon Steel Lock Ring Horseshoe Washer Plier w/ Plastisol Grips | eBay
Model PROT J250G. •For spreading both soft iron "horseshoe" lock washers used on brakes and tempered steel lock rings used on gear and bearing shafts.
www.ebay.com
@flintknapper
I was able to find these on eBay, they don't look as long but they're the 250g model.
Proto J250G 9" Carbon Steel Lock Ring Horseshoe Washer Plier w/ Plastisol Grips | eBay
Model PROT J250G. •For spreading both soft iron "horseshoe" lock washers used on brakes and tempered steel lock rings used on gear and bearing shafts.www.ebay.com
Those would work great and last you a lifetime (if you aren't bad about losing tools).
I literally have tools I purchased 50 years ago. My brother on the other hand....loses tools 'daily' it seems.
It wouldn't be wise for him to purchase good quality tools.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Those would work great and last you a lifetime (if you aren't bad about losing tools).
I literally have tools I purchased 50 years ago. My brother on the other hand....loses tools 'daily' it seems.
It wouldn't be wise for him to purchase good quality tools.
Do you know of any retail stores that carry Proto tools? I don't recall seeing them anywhere?
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Grainger, if you have one nearby.
My Local NAPA store carries Proto tools....but mostly sockets and such.
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I will be continuing this thread in the coming weeks as I dive back into the front end to replace a drivers side CV axle. After my recent outing to the Ouachita Mtns I began to notice the infamous cv axle click. It has quickly progressed becoming much more audible and I can feel it under my left foot especially while turning under power. I've checked snap ring, axle splines, and flange splines but all are good. Will have to drain front diff anyway so I will get the chance to inspect the magnet when I do so. It has been parked for the last 2wks in fear of repeating 2014 when my (dealer installed) wheel bearings said goodbye destroying the entire spindle, hub, rotor, caliper, and cv axle. Been driving different vehicles to avoid another catastrophic failure. I only plan on tackling the drivers side at this time to get it drivable; passenger side will be in the future. Parts were sourced through a combination of my local dealer, Partsouq, and CruiserOutfitters. Expect lots of pics. I plan on replacing the following:
On a side note, Partsouq got my parts from Dubai to Little Rock, AR in basically 2 full days....that's incredible
- CV axle (43430-60040)
- Lower ball joint; 555 from Cruiser Outfitters (SUS43340)
- Lower control arm bushing No.1 (48654-60010)
- Lower control arm bushing No.2 (48655-60010)
- Lower control arm bushing spacer (90560-49001)
- Hub flange studs (90116-10201) x6
- Hub flange washers (90201-10075) x6
- Hub flange nuts (90170-10039) x6
- Hub flange gasket (43422-60070)
- Hub flange (43421-60060)
- Snap ring kit; Cruiser Outfitters (FAWB9807KIT)
- Diff oil seal; drivers side (90311-47013)
- Spindle oil seal (90316-72001)
- Needle bearing (90364-33011)
- Brass bushing (90381-35001)
- Knuckle/brake shield dust seal (43436-60020)
- Crush washer for diff (12157-10010)
- Hood-to-headlight weatherstrip (53183-60071)
- Hood-to-radiator support weatherstrip (53381-60041)
- Window trim; front left door (75720-60061)
- Window trim; front right door (75710-60061)
- Window trim; rear left door (75740-60041)
- Window trim; rear right door (75730-60041)
- U-Joints for front drive shaft (04371-60060) x 2
On a side note, Partsouq got my parts from Dubai to Little Rock, AR in basically 2 full days....that's incredible
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I had to do a boot replace in a 120F sub-basement some years ago. That was a super messy job. With a complete axle it will go quick and easy so long as you are able to seat the inner axle without issues. (Some folks have a little trouble.)
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Halfway-ish there. Lower ball joint was an absolute pain but managed to eventually get it loose without the need for a puller. Just gotta knock out the axle from the diff and then get started servicing the spindle with new needle bearings and brass bushing. Still need to rent a press for the lower ball joint and LCA bushings but I’ll get to that in the next couple days. I really only have time to work about 1-2hrs a day so this is my day 1 progress hah. To be fair about 20min of that was safely positioning the jack stands just the way I wanted them since there’s so much torque needed to loosen/tighten these bolts. I probably spend more time than necessary doing that but years ago my dads base commander lost his life due to an improperly jacked vehicle
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Can't be too safe. This job is a lot of work, looks good!
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Your videos are invaluable, thank you! I've followed your videos very closely for a lot of different services and this one is no exception. Especially the No.2 frame bushing for the LCA.....I've watched that one a few times over and it looks less and less fun each time hah.
Your more than welcome. Some of these videos I've released aren't ready for release (need editing). But they're helpful, I hope!
I've got hours and hours of yet to be released videos. Like full length timing belt and wheel bearing with knuckle service. When I get time... I will.
I've got hours and hours of yet to be released videos. Like full length timing belt and wheel bearing with knuckle service. When I get time... I will.
Provided you supported LCA.This is great. I guess the 5 second method that I used for removing the old LBJ is now acceptable to talk about.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
You would figure it out pretty fast after the first time the LBJ bounced off your forehead on the rebound.
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Hitting the LBJ while supporting the LCA worked like a charm! 2 hard strikes with a 3lb sledge and it came out no problem. CV is out, LCA is off, removed diff oil seal and spindle oil seal, cleaned up the brass bushing and needle bearing to find a small chip in the inner race. Glad I went ahead and got new! Drilled out the No.1 bushing in the LCA and then chiseled out the metal sleeve. Tomorrow I’m hitting the LCA and spindle with a pressure wash and scrub and then might get to work on the No.2 frame bushing. If that gives me more trouble than I care for I’ll switch to reinstalling bearing and bushing in the spindle. Forgot to mention the diff fluid looked great when I drained it. Very little metal sludge on the magnet and the oil was in great shape (last replaced about 50k ago).
The No. 2 Bushings in mine ended up being the easiest of all of them I did. Mine did not have too much rust between the shell of the bushing and the bushing bore in the frame. Others have not been so lucky. A generous amount of heat helps in removing them. Good luck with yours.
