If you grease the axle bearing and bushing as recommended by Toyota. It's near impossible to pull axle hard and long enough, to settle grease and a get ture snap ring gap. But one can assemble, drive to settle, and then come back and just hand pull the axle with a bolt.
Wheel Bearings Service w/Pics (1 Viewer)
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Nice job.They look like piano keys
View attachment 2451715
Quick update for those who have ordered: I ordered bulk hardware last week (thanks for the recommendation @JunkCrzr89) but unfortunately it’s not scheduled to be delivered until 10/2 (the day I said I’d ship everything out). Because of this I will have to ship Saturday 10/3. Hope this doesn’t inconvenience anyone. I do have all square tubing pieces completed and drying. I have about 3 extras for anyone who wants one! After this batch they’ll be $25 shipped within the USA
View attachment 2451716
Trying to button mine back up post bearing replacement. Two of the 14mm studs that the flange mounts to seem to be spinning, unable to reach 24ftlbs. Stud replacement?
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More than likely yes. Maybe the stud just backed out and is able to be reseated properly? Thankfully I haven't ran into that issue so honestly I'm not too familiar with it, but I did end up replacing a wheel stud that was doing the exact same thing.
First make sure you've good nuts. Factory calls them non reusable, they get stretched.
I've been pulling studs during wheel hub service. Clean out threads and seal the threads as I torque in.
If threads on studs damaged replace studs.
If hub threads are damaged try correcting with thread restore tool, use time-sert or replace the hub.
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Everything was shipped out earlier this morning. If you haven't received a shipping notification w/tracking number through PayPal or it's not in your PayPal account, then pm me and I will give it to you. Thank you everyone! Already putting a list together to get another batch going so if you'd like one let me know.
ranma21
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I like to buy one too, let me know the payment info. Thanks =)
Already received mine. Thank you for such a nifty idea. :tup:
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Got the next batch out today thanks everyone! If you didn't receive notification of a tracking number let me know and I'll dig it up for you. If you got any questions or issues my number and email is on the bottom of the included instructions, or also pm me here. I'll be taking the 200 up to the Ozarks this weekend so lead time on the next run is about 2wks. I currently have 3 kits in stock ready to ship.
I received mine in 2 days. Buuuut I'm having a really simple problem. I can't get the darn C-clip on. They don't have holes in them for my snap ring pliers. How have you guys been getting these things on?!? LOL, that's literally all I have to do. This was a looooong job for me for some reason. I also changed the bearings, races, rotors and brakes and I'm still on just the driver's side. Gotta go make that tool to grease the splines after I get this c-clip on.
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This was a big hassle for me too. I actually had to use a flat head, a hammer, and a pair of needle nose pliers. It worked best for me to put it on the end of the axle and using needle nose try to push one side on. After you get one half of it on you can use the flat head and hammer to gently knock the other side on and then down the splines into the groove. Easier said than done I know.
Fun fact: that’s the next thing I’m working on
It will not require removal of the bearing adjuster nuts or even the wheel. All you’ll need to do is remove the snap ring & hub flange!
This was a big hassle for me too. I actually had to use a flat head, a hammer, and a pair of needle nose pliers. It worked best for me to put it on the end of the axle and using needle nose try to push one side on. After you get one half of it on you can use the flat head and hammer to gently knock the other side on and then down the splines into the groove. Easier said than done I know.
Fun fact: that’s the next thing I’m working on
View attachment 2482766
Darnnit! I put the flange back on... I'm tired. I need to rest up and just go to home depot tomorrow to get that zerk fitting and cap, smh. Those nuts had a little red loc-tite on there too I noticed.
Great posts. I am experiencing the thunk when I let off the gas to coast on the highway and also when I step back on the gas. I have already greased the drive shafts. Can someone pls explain how repacking the bearings, changing the snap ring etc can mechanically rectify the thunk? I want a little confidence knowing how this will mechanically fix my issues before embarking on my bearing repack adventure. Thanks
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That specific driveline clunk has less to do with bearings and more to do with worn hub flange splines. Removing the flange is required to perform a bearing repack/replacement so most will include a new flange when the service is performed.
Eyedaho
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I would be surprised if the nuts get stretched at 24 ft*lbs. I'm guessing they Toyota calls them non reusable because of the thread locker.
The nuts do indeed get stretched. Maybe more or in part from movement of cone washers during operation, than the 24lb-lbf of torque. But I can assure you, I have found them stretched. The most sever case was on my 00 w/350K. It had a good number of wheel bearing services at Lexus in it's history. Unfortunate most if not all were poorly done. It had one of the worst set of bearings I've seen. The axle bearings and bushing had never been greased either.
It (00LX w/350k) is where I finally saw undoubtedly, why Toyota calls the nuts non-reusable. They were so loose, they had a lot of free play. I could rock back and forth between my fingers once threaded on the stud. Replacing the nut(s) eliminated the free play.
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Eyedaho
SILVER Star
The new ones that I installed yesterday from Toyota definitely had red stuff on them, which I assume is thread locker.
If you're replacing the nuts because they have stretched, but not buying them from Toyota, what are you using? Hopefully the same grade?
I stand corrected. I just went and looked at a bag nuts I have, under good light with magnifier lens. They are pre-coated threads.
But I assure you, they also stretch or at least thread wear so they fit stud too loose. When I find them loose, is when I replace nuts, rather than just sealing threads of old ones.
But I assure you, they also stretch or at least thread wear so they fit stud too loose. When I find them loose, is when I replace nuts, rather than just sealing threads of old ones.
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Trunk Monkey
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^ I picked up a $15 Craftsman pair of dedicated snap ring pliers, life changing from trying to get the clips on with the interchangeable point HF junk.
