Please put me down for one too. IH8MUD rocks! :tup:
Wheel Bearings Service w/Pics
- Thread starter TheForger
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Please put me down for one too. IH8MUD rocks! :tup:
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Well I do appreciate the interest! Didn't expect more than a few to want one.
I’ll be making a small batch of 10 to start out with. Initial price will be $15 + shipping (usually about 4.95 via USPS First Class) EDIT: Price is now $25 with shipping. If demand is there to make more in the future that price may slightly increase but I'm still working all that out. The tool will be drilled using a manual vertical mill. This batch should be ready for shipping by the end of next week (10/2 at the latest). Send me a pm if you would like one.
Included:
- 6" long
- (2x) 3/8-16 x 3" outer support bolts
- (2x) 3/8-16 hex nuts
- (1x) M8 x 1.25 x 50mm CV axle bolt (maybe 60mm still trying to figure out which length is best)
- (5x) 5/16" flat washers
* I can also provide a feeler gauge upon request for an additional $5
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For $20 shipped I will take one, add me on a list!
I'm in. Let me know how to pay. Nice work.
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
I'll take one too, let me know how to pay you. Thanks!
PM sent.
PM sent, this looks awesome thanks for putting it together.
I'll take one .
PM sent
PM sent
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
@TheForger Looks like you have some work to do 
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Expected 2-3....ended up with 18 on this first run. Not bad and it's much appreciated! Hand milling them takes some time though so expect the price to increase just a tad on this next run. For those who still want one feel free to message me and I can fit you in.@TheForger Looks like you have some work to do
I laid out all the square tubing stock today (ie. marked drill and cut points), now I just need to get back to my mill. Hoping to have it all cut & drilled by early next week. Hard part is sourcing the hardware! It may seem like 3 bolts & 5 washers to a buyer, but it's 54 bolts & 90 washers to me. Not a lot of places carry that kind of inventory. Still on track for a 10/2 shipment deadline! Still working on my painting technique though
What I call the "support bolts" resting on the hub flange studs...
...resting on the alignment dimples
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Buy bulk from Bolt depot or Belmetric!
I see some people having trouble getting the new races all the way in. The problem is usually they started out with the old race as a tool to hammer the new one in. Once the new race is fitted the old race can get stuck.
Some use a specific tool and others use a brass drift to drive them in. But there is another way. I usually get an angle grinder and make a cut through the old race. You can now compress it slightly and this will make sure it can't get stuck.
Here's a picture:
You can now press in the new race with the (cut) old one and it won't get stuck.
Some use a specific tool and others use a brass drift to drive them in. But there is another way. I usually get an angle grinder and make a cut through the old race. You can now compress it slightly and this will make sure it can't get stuck.
Here's a picture:
You can now press in the new race with the (cut) old one and it won't get stuck.
I love your axle pull tool @TheForger, good job.
Nice to see wheel bearing service done right. Be great if Dealership shops and INDY shops would catch on.
I'll add a few thoughts to thread.
Bearings and races:
Never mix up bearings from one side to the other, they've seated to the races.
Rarely are new bearings needed. If properly set up every 30K miles, they get better and better! Factory's bearings are incredibly tough!
I find poor condition wheel bearings, properly set up. I'll see ~20ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut to achieve 12.5lb breakaway preload.
I find new wheel bearings, properly set up. I'll see ~45ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut to achieve ~12.5lb breakaway preload.
I find the better the condition of used bearing & races, well seated and properly set up. I'll see ~65 to 80ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut to achieve 12.5lb breakaway preload.
I'm very consistent on how I clean, grease and pull (90 degree to axle, parallel to vehicle and forward) on spring scale during a wheel bearing service.
Axle bearing & bushing lube:
When using the Slee tool to lube axle bearing and brass bushing. Make sure axle and inner tube of spindle are clean. You don't want to be pressing in sand/grim with the new grease!
Scraping out excessive grease from back of knuckle in bushing area. Makes snap ring set job easier.
Knuckle to axle oil seal (rear of knuckle):
I find this seal has been damaged a little too often. If front drive shaft (AKA CV's) has been replaced. Shops get careless while installing the axle into knuckle (knuckle on) and damage these seals while inserting the axle. I like, pulling the steering knuckle my first time in a 100 series. If, higher mileage, seal damage, any signs FDS rebooting/replaced or any of the ball joints/TRE are even marginal suspect. Then I recondition the knuckle, inspect all ball joints/TRE by the FSM method and replace the oil seal. I replace ball joints if needed, with 555 as I don't know of better? I only use OEM TRE, the 555 TRE are not lasting.
Nice trick @YvesNL. For those without a with tool to cut old race to make a race set tool. Just flip larger side of old race facing in. Then it will easily tap back out from back side.
Nice to see wheel bearing service done right. Be great if Dealership shops and INDY shops would catch on.
I'll add a few thoughts to thread.
Bearings and races:
Never mix up bearings from one side to the other, they've seated to the races.
Rarely are new bearings needed. If properly set up every 30K miles, they get better and better! Factory's bearings are incredibly tough!
I find poor condition wheel bearings, properly set up. I'll see ~20ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut to achieve 12.5lb breakaway preload.
I find new wheel bearings, properly set up. I'll see ~45ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut to achieve ~12.5lb breakaway preload.
I find the better the condition of used bearing & races, well seated and properly set up. I'll see ~65 to 80ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut to achieve 12.5lb breakaway preload.
I'm very consistent on how I clean, grease and pull (90 degree to axle, parallel to vehicle and forward) on spring scale during a wheel bearing service.
Axle bearing & bushing lube:
When using the Slee tool to lube axle bearing and brass bushing. Make sure axle and inner tube of spindle are clean. You don't want to be pressing in sand/grim with the new grease!
Scraping out excessive grease from back of knuckle in bushing area. Makes snap ring set job easier.
Knuckle to axle oil seal (rear of knuckle):
I find this seal has been damaged a little too often. If front drive shaft (AKA CV's) has been replaced. Shops get careless while installing the axle into knuckle (knuckle on) and damage these seals while inserting the axle. I like, pulling the steering knuckle my first time in a 100 series. If, higher mileage, seal damage, any signs FDS rebooting/replaced or any of the ball joints/TRE are even marginal suspect. Then I recondition the knuckle, inspect all ball joints/TRE by the FSM method and replace the oil seal. I replace ball joints if needed, with 555 as I don't know of better? I only use OEM TRE, the 555 TRE are not lasting.
Nice trick @YvesNL. For those without a with tool to cut old race to make a race set tool. Just flip larger side of old race facing in. Then it will easily tap back out from back side.
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They look like piano keys 
Quick update for those who have ordered: I ordered bulk hardware last week (thanks for the recommendation @JunkCrzr89) but unfortunately it’s not scheduled to be delivered until 10/2 (the day I said I’d ship everything out). Because of this I will have to ship Saturday 10/3. Hope this doesn’t inconvenience anyone. I do have all square tubing pieces completed and drying. I have about 3 extras for anyone who wants one! After this batch they’ll be $25 shipped within the USA
Quick update for those who have ordered: I ordered bulk hardware last week (thanks for the recommendation @JunkCrzr89) but unfortunately it’s not scheduled to be delivered until 10/2 (the day I said I’d ship everything out). Because of this I will have to ship Saturday 10/3. Hope this doesn’t inconvenience anyone. I do have all square tubing pieces completed and drying. I have about 3 extras for anyone who wants one! After this batch they’ll be $25 shipped within the USA
Nice job!They look like piano keys
View attachment 2451715
Quick update for those who have ordered: I ordered bulk hardware last week (thanks for the recommendation @JunkCrzr89) but unfortunately it’s not scheduled to be delivered until 10/2 (the day I said I’d ship everything out). Because of this I will have to ship Saturday 10/3. Hope this doesn’t inconvenience anyone. I do have all square tubing pieces completed and drying. I have about 3 extras for anyone who wants one! After this batch they’ll be $25 shipped within the USA
View attachment 2451716
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Also, this coating is something I'm going to have to work on. If you have the proper amount of grease in your hub cavity and bearings, it takes quite a bit of force to pull the CV out until it's fully seated against the back of the spindle. Having new CV and/or flange splines makes this process even greater. That means it's really hard to guarantee a coating that will remain unphased. Not sure if I want to go powdercoat because that will increase the cost to a point that doesn't make sense for what you're getting. Let me think about it and I'm open to suggestions. Might just offer it raw and you can do with it what you wish. Could also do stainless but of course that would increase price as well.
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Cest magnifique! I love watching someone work who knows what they're doing.Now onto the passenger side. Spindle looked to be in much better shape. Basically no pitting and very minor areas of discoloration from heat. Splines on axle looked to be in pretty good condition. Cleaned with 600 grit, steel wool, then lightly greased spindle. Also cleaned ABS sensor and performed the same cleaning & greasing on the brake shield and mounting area. Greased spindle bearings with Slee tool.
View attachment 2392058
Hub grease looked just as bad though. Very black, not viscous, and it was separating in spots which made me think water found its way in from previous water crossings. Also, there should be much more.
View attachment 2392059
Once again, heavy tool marks...
View attachment 2392060
Thoroughly cleaned & pounded in new races. Installed inner bearing with oil seal. Installed on spindle. Outer bearing, claw washer, adjusting nut, lock washer, lock nut. I will also note there was no evidence of liquid gasket on this passenger hub flange, but there was also no fiber gasket present
View attachment 2392061
Here's my rudimentary axle puller tool. It's made of 1" square tubing and I didn't feel like cutting it down to a manageable size so I left it 3' long because I like making things as difficult as possible. 2 holes drilled 92.5mm center-to-center with the axle bolt hole at 46.25mm. Could've used some washers since as you can see it slightly crushed the tubing, but I didn't care enough. There are nuts on the other side of the square heads bolts. All new hardware just like on the drivers side.
Snap ring size D 2.4mm; Adjusting nut @ 62ft/lbs + locking nut @ 47ft/lbs = 12.5lb breakaway; hub flange nuts torqued to 25ft/lbs; caliper bolts torqued to 91ft/lbs
View attachment 2392062
Bedded in the new brakes and she drives like a dream now! No more pulsating, weird noises or vibrations, and best of all no more driveline clunk!! I mean it completely eliminated the clunk when switching from P-R-N-D, accelerating from a dead stop, or shifting through the gears while driving. Will recheck breakaway in ~500mi and adjust as needed.
In about 2-3wks I will be able to clean, inspect, & compare old parts (bearings, hub flange splines, adjusting/locking nuts & associated washers, etc...). I will post my findings here. Based on the amount of metal shavings caught on the drivers side ABS sensor I will venture to say both the bearings on that side did not fair very well. I will also be installing the Slee stainless steel brake lines at that time.
For sure. It goes well with using the Greasemaster to get the needle bearings and coverage for the brass bushing.
I'll admit, I haven't tried this on the TLC but...
On another wheel hub, I put the bearing races in the freezer overnight, then put the hub in the oven at 450. Pulled them both out, and the race dropped right into place. I let them both get to room temp, and took a brass drift and double checked, but they were all good.
I will try this next time on the bearing races on the Cruiser.
Also, I never had an issue pulling the axle stub out to get the C-clip on, I just threaded a bolt in there and pulled on it by hand. No problem.
On another wheel hub, I put the bearing races in the freezer overnight, then put the hub in the oven at 450. Pulled them both out, and the race dropped right into place. I let them both get to room temp, and took a brass drift and double checked, but they were all good.
I will try this next time on the bearing races on the Cruiser.
Also, I never had an issue pulling the axle stub out to get the C-clip on, I just threaded a bolt in there and pulled on it by hand. No problem.