Just rebuilt mine last week and I always wondered (2nd thoughts here) that even you may miss the thrust washer going in the groove the first time, wouldn't it go back in the groove once it turns a complete revolution? OR does the notch get smashed and no longer sticks into the groove enough to grab and stay.H55 conversion in the 83 was a success. Ended up using one of my T-case brackets off another 5-speed I have. Was able to heat and bend the T-case shifter so it’s about identical to the later one. One trick I figured out mating the back half of the T-Case was to use the old idler shaft as a guide (at least I’ve never seen this before). All the other cases I’ve done I always have to re-stab the case several times as the outside washer (that you stick to the inside with grease) seems to move once I lower the case and try to center the new idler shaft in the hole. Inevitably I am off center knocking the washer out of place as I can’t see it once I lower the case. If anyone else has this challenge then hopefully this trick will work for you as well. Doing this I nailed it on the first attempt. I’ve seen Georg’s video and he does enough of these jobs that he knows exactly where to clock the outer washer on the idler shaft eliminating the whole issue. Maybe when I grow up.
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What the hell is goin on in Jimmy's Barn
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This is a great question. I’m far from an expert, but my initial thought is once stake nuts are torqued and preload confirmed, you’re at a point where the notch on the washer may be compromised deeming it inoperable. I’m copying Georg @orangefj45 to get his thoughts on this. If he has the opportunity to respond we will certainly know the answer to your question. Thanks for your input. Jimmy
The case halves can't be tightened down if the idler thrust washer tabs are outside of their grooves, or if you go full hulk, you'd just smash the tabs. Has nothin to do with the stake nuts, it's the case halves that dictate the space that the idler gearset and thrust washers live in.
Ah ha Johnny. You nailed it. Thanks for clarifying this.
Thinking about it more, the thrust washer material may be tougher than the aluminum case, so you might just smash the tabs into the aluminum of the case.
Anyway, best always to fully seat the case halves prior to tightening the bolts, to make sure this isn't an issue.
Anyway, best always to fully seat the case halves prior to tightening the bolts, to make sure this isn't an issue.
If I'm remembering correctly, my scenario was (which may be common) I seated the case halves prior to tightening then noticed the notch on the idler shaft was a little off (not everyone have this sixth sense ) so I spun it assuming that the assembly goo would keep the washer still. The goo has to create more friction than the idler gear on the idler thrust washer, hence it would stay.
My bigger concern was the other thrust washer, as I had to "stick the landing" when the back cover went on with the washer going on before the oring. However Georg's tip of spinning and watching through the PTO window worked great. A little tough to see but you can see the washer spinning a tiny bit then stopping.
) so I spun it assuming that the assembly goo would keep the washer still. The goo has to create more friction than the idler gear on the idler thrust washer, hence it would stay.My bigger concern was the other thrust washer, as I had to "stick the landing" when the back cover went on with the washer going on before the oring. However Georg's tip of spinning and watching through the PTO window worked great. A little tough to see but you can see the washer spinning a tiny bit then stopping.
Was awesome meeting you Nik and enjoyed driving the 100. And next time the cold beer is on me
Yes sir Nik. I’ll be here all weekend. Glad the tool worked out. Jimmy
Jimmys barn is gone! This is all a facade!
Building a 4X4Labs bumper for my brothers @kmj64 62. They charge $1000 more (+ a lot more freight) for a complete bumper shipped. After doing this one I believe I’d pay the $1000 . ANd I’ll be doing one with Mark @drenmaster in a few weeks. His should go much faster as I now understand all the tricks to making this come together. I searched all over the net and could not find a write up on a 60 series bumper. There are a few differences between this one and the 80 series which is well documented. I’ll state it up front...my welds are effective, but not pretty. Thanks to Casey @POTATO LAUNCHER for helping me dial in my welder over the phone. He’s a good fu**er!!!
. ANd I’ll be doing one with Mark @drenmaster in a few weeks. His should go much faster as I now understand all the tricks to making this come together. I searched all over the net and could not find a write up on a 60 series bumper. There are a few differences between this one and the 80 series which is well documented. I’ll state it up front...my welds are effective, but not pretty. Thanks to Casey @POTATO LAUNCHER for helping me dial in my welder over the phone. He’s a good fu**er!!!
I’ll add this as well...if you order the kit be sure and check your stuff when it arrives. Unfortunately we were given a mounting kit for an 80 front bumper. No bueno as it’s useless for a 60 rear. And we were shorted the swing out stop. No problem as I found some 1/2” stock and dabbed one up . The first pic is from their website with the black arrow pointing at the stop.
. The first pic is from their website with the black arrow pointing at the stop. 
@CenTXFJ60 im counting down the days! Really looking forward to this project.
Next fun project in the barn will be a 5-speed conversion on Bens @Vasopressor clean 62. He’s Bringing it down Saturday the 12th and will spend some time doing knuckles and other cool jobs while his trucks on the lift. He’s picked up a new/used rear diff with an ARB locker that will get swapped in as well. He has a nice list of upgrades that will elevate this truck to a whole new level. Looking forward to working on it with Ben. Updates to follow.
That looks like a lot of heavy lifting going on and off.
I wish I could transition to working at night to beat the heat.
I wish I could transition to working at night to beat the heat.
Building a 4X4Labs bumper for my brothers @kmj64 62. They charge $1000 more (+ a lot more freight) for a complete bumper shipped. After doing this one I believe I’d pay the $1000
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Looking good Jimmy! I'm glad you said you'd pay the extra $1000 because that's the route I went. Don't have a shop or a welder so I really didn't have much choice anyway.
For you guys that aren't aware, Jimmy is a professional "dabber" in his spare time.
