What Rod Clamps to Use for Bud Built Tie rod

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I've searched and came up empty so I hope this isn't a widely know answer and I just missed a post.

Installing Bud Built tie rod and relay rod. Got everything off and went to go install new stuff and the first uh oh moment was how / if I suppose to use the original rod clamps on the Bud Built rods. The new ones seem so much wider in diameter that I'm not sure the org clamps will go over them and also the Bud Built ones don't have any slots so I'm not sure the clamps would even do anything.

Please set me straight.
 
Doesn't he supply jam nuts with his steering rods?
 
Use jam nuts.
 
I will call tomorrow. I only had two rods in the box so I had made the assumption I was going to use clamps, but jam nuts do make sense now that I think about it.

I'm betting the jam nuts are something I can find local.
 
Should look something like this:

IMG_20130205_174345.jpg


Are you sure there weren't a couple of jam nuts in the box? I just got my Budbuilt drag link a couple of days ago, and there were 2 jam nuts in a plastic bag inside the box.

:cheers:
 
Jam nuts! Makes sure you check them after you put some miles on it! One of mine came loose!
 
Jam nuts! Makes sure you check them after you put some miles on it! One of mine came loose!

Clamps won't do that. That's why I went with 4 Plus Tie Rods.
 
Well you are right.... No way I'm finding that local.

I did end up finding the jam nuts from bud built in the bottom of the box, but they sent four 21mm nuts so the ones on the tie rod worked great so I'm going to find the 17 mm ones. I bet they would send them to me, but I was hoping to finish this job tomorrow.

There is one more place here I'm going to try tomorrow. If they don't have it ill call bud built and wait it out.

I can't wait to get this done! From what I do have done I I looking great. I've driven it for 2 years with bent up tie rods so I eager to get it fixed.
 
Run into the next hick up...gap and grease fitting

I'm getting closer to being finished to this TRE and new rod job, but tonight this comes up. Very frustrating because the hard stuff is done and this trival stuff is killing me.

1) Have a screw in the TRE that won't come out to let me put the grease fitting in. The other 4 came out just fine, but this one seems stripped because it just keeps turning and turning.

See picture below of the little screw. Any tricks on how to get this out without damaging anything so the grease fitting will go in?

2) There is a gap in the mounting of the steering stabilizer. See picture. Is this a concern? I pictured this all fitting in snug, but this gap is present.

Please guide me so I can finish this up.

FYI: bud built is sending new lock / jam nuts for the relay rod. They had sent four 20 mm size instead of two 20 and two 17 so the 17 mm are in the mail then I can get relay rod mounted.
TRE.jpg
gap.jpg
 
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Jam nuts! Makes sure you check them after you put some miles on it! One of mine came loose!

In hard wheeling ( competition ) jam nuts loosened on every one or two obstacles.
Spot welding them in an easy to access with a grinder position was the only way we could keep the rod ends tight.
 
FWIW, Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters advised against adding zerks to the tre's.
His feeling was that the tre's come pregreased and will last a long time with the factory grease. He argues that the biggest problem with tre's is not lack of grease, but dirt and water. When people add grease, they often cause the boot to open up allowing water and dirt to get in there causing them to fail sooner. Interesting theory. Most modern vehicles don't have grease fittings.

If you want to get that bolt out, I would try grabbing it with vise grips and pull while turning. Or put a screwdriver under the head and pry while you turn.

Yes, the gap in the steering damper is a problem. Bolt too long or nut not on enough.
 
Got this done! Thanks for the feedback....here is before and after.
image-2951389291.jpg
image-987516736.jpg
 
The steering stabilizer "bolt" is tapered. If the nut is tight that is as far as it's goin' in. Since it doesn't see high loads I would run it as is. To get it to go deeper you would need a tapered reamer to open up the hole in the frame bracket.

On second look the stabilizer might also be installed backwards. As it sits now water will collect in the cover end.

Nick
 
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