What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (63 Viewers)

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Have to leave for a generator outage in North Platte so I had to clean up and roll the RJ40 back to the back wall with the John Deere to make room for my Ram 3500.

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I still have room to get the Ram 3500 in

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Installed the new dash box. It only has 2 M5-.8 bolts holding it in place. I have a plan to stiffen it up when I get back. The metal is very thin so is wobbly right now and would fatigue with out some more help.

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Not all this week, but over the last few. Took the front clip apart, drilled out retapped and replaced every broken bolt and all the rest in the fenders, front panels, light frames, etc. Installed the hood “bumpers”, turns out the hood will not stay latched with all 4, so 2 it is for now. Today I removed all of the interior panels. Going to have those made out of a thermoplastic called KYDEX at work. I will upholster them after, install new speakers, soundproof the entire cabin and go from there. Note: Wilbur is not a “restoration”, he is a purely utilitarian beach project.

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Added a 4WD light on my 74. Big thanks to Coolerman for making me a jumper harness for both my back up lights and for my 4 wheel drive light. Years ago, Mark made a rear harness for me and added the wires for the 4WD light, 74’s had them in the harness. Fast forward 5 years, the 5spd and transfer case made it a reality. I plugged in the sub harness and added a dash idiot light to the existing harness plug. Real cool IMO!

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Does anyone have a picture of sun visors that also has the top mount windshield wiper motors? Thinking about ordering the visors but wanting to see if they would work.
 
Does anyone have a picture of sun visors that also has the top mount windshield wiper motors? Thinking about ordering the visors but wanting to see if they would work.
No pictures but the difference is the offset of the visor arms. Deeper offset for top mount. Short for later style bottom mount.
 
Installed the Koito harness for the Koito headlights I bought from @CruiserTrash
Also put in the fuse and relay mounts for it from @cruisermatt…works great.

Took longer than I thought, but I did end up cleaning up the wiring bc I have an entire wiring harness from another 40 and needed to make the ends of the wires on my 40 the same color/stripe…so now I can see exactly the colors on the wiring diagram…and I needed to solder the wires and put shrink around them to clean it all up.

Also, my HBI turns on and I’ve read that isn’t always the case, but I do have an LED in mine and @CruiserTrash and I were waiting to see if mine was going to work.

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Got the new fuse block installed. Everything works! At first I got it installed, pulled the headlight switch to check the running lights. Their failure led to the discovery of the bad fuse block. No lights. Scratched my head for a minute, then realized I didn't put the negative terminal back on the battery.
 
found a better spot to test the flex/ clearance etc - had to trim the exhaust pipe the last time. Everything seems to work now: looks like I'm getting max travel out of the shocks and springs although I would have thought more droop - not sure if its the springs or the shocks

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You can remove the shocks and do the same flex test , take measure of shocks mounting pins on the compress and extended side and look if you gain any flex.
you need small shims for the bump stop if the shocks is the limiting factor
 
You know how FedEx has started taking a picture of the completed delivery? That is cool I think. Especially when the driver lets you get in on the pic. I was home when my Kenda Klever 33x9.50-R15s were delivered:
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Now they are stacked in my other shed and once I finish all my fence chores, I'll do some rim painting and then get this show on the road.

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Ya'll have a great week! 😎
 
Research indicates that my Pig may be leaking oil. I suspicion that it might be the old cork pan gasket which has been fine for 21 years but is sorta bulging out the sides from being snugged up occasionally over the years. So I dropped the pan. Incredibly, it came right off with a gentle nudge. No bottle jack needed.
No real surprises in the pan, small patch of unidentifiable trash, half ferrous half old gasket and FIPG. I'm probably not going to drop everything and rebuild the engine over it.

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Research indicates that my Pig may be leaking oil. I suspicion that it might be the old cork pan gasket which has been fine for 21 years but is sorta bulging out the sides from being snugged up occasionally over the years. So I dropped the pan. Incredibly, it came right off with a gentle nudge. No bottle jack needed.
No real surprises in the pan, small patch of unidentifiable trash, half ferrous half old gasket and FIPG. I'm probably not going to drop everything and rebuild the engine over it.

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Sick bumper. Do you have a broader pic of it? Looks like madmax.
 
Sick bumper. Do you have a broader pic of it? Looks like madmax.
Pics of my front bumper? Oh I got pics. It's just some 5" C channel with a couple notch and bends, one of the first mods I ever did for the Pig.

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Got the oilpan gasket off in one piece, probably because some idiot decided to see what would happen without any gasket maker. So here's what a used, leaky, oilpan gasket looks like.
Think I got my money's worth out of this one, think I might have found my leak too.

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found a better spot to test the flex/ clearance etc - had to trim the exhaust pipe the last time. Everything seems to work now: looks like I'm getting max travel out of the shocks and springs although I would have thought more droop - not sure if its the springs or the shocks

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I wish I had somewhere that good for testing flex.

I found that stock front shocks are too short. I first fabricated taller shock towers and used a pair of rear shocks on the front. Years later I swapped the taller fabricated towers out for Ford shock towers when I converted to power steering.
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Even with raised front fenders, the 33x10.50s ATs stuff way up into the fenders.
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