Set the (lower) cab on!
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Started an annoying project. Have to move the vintage air unit over about 3”. PO installed it too close and the spring will not it fit.
For what it’s worth, my 75 FJ40 used the stock air cleaner with the Weber carb… it looks like a 3” tall rubber sleeve from the top of the carb to the air cleaner cap. @MatthewMcD has it…maybe can explain with a quick photoWatching.
As I don’t hate my Weber, it does leave some to be desired. And a factory air cleaner would be nice.
For what it’s worth, my 75 FJ40 used the stock air cleaner with the Weber carb… it looks like a 3” tall rubber sleeve from the top of the carb to the air cleaner cap. @MatthewMcD has it…maybe can explain with a quick photo
I have seen adapters for stock air cleaners.For what it’s worth, my 75 FJ40 used the stock air cleaner with the Weber carb… it looks like a 3” tall rubber sleeve from the top of the carb to the air cleaner cap. @MatthewMcD has it…maybe can explain with a quick photo
We really had a great time; it was a beautiful day; we saw a lot of really nice vintage vehicles and got to discuss all things cruiser with @igotta40. Put a total of about 180 miles on the odometer. It was the longest drive yet for our 40 with no breakdowns.Today I met up with a fellow IH8MUD member at a car show in Friendswood, Texas. One of the cool things about this forum is having the occasional opportunity to get together for like minded enjoyment of our trucks, and sharing stories of the sweat, toil and busted knuckles that build the Toyotas that we enjoy so much. GreenBeen is a great guy, thanks for the invite! BTW- GreenBean won a trophy!
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Beautiful 40s.Today I met up with a fellow IH8MUD member at a car show in Friendswood, Texas. One of the cool things about this forum is having the occasional opportunity to get together for like minded enjoyment of our trucks, and sharing stories of the sweat, toil and busted knuckles that build the Toyotas that we enjoy so much. GreenBeen is a great guy, thanks for the invite! BTW- GreenBean won a trophy!
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If your tubes are in good shape still (assuming you have the rear hatch strut tubes) there’s a gas strut you can put inside them. One of the best things I’ve done, whether it’s hidden in the tube or not, it’s worth it.Beautiful 40s.
I need to find more info on that rear hatch lift support setup.
There is a whole thread dedicated to this. I added an update when I did mine. I am about to clean them up some more when I refinish my hatch and install a tailgate:I need to find more info on that rear hatch lift support setup.
I'm going to guess that @Green Bean solution to a problem normally involves Windex to remove the Freudian bug splotches on the windshield. Beautiful Rig Mark!@Green Bean ….you mention…
“ Put a total of about 180 miles on the odometer. It was the longest drive yet for our 40 with no breakdowns “ Your 40 looks as beautifully maintained as possible..what would be your suspicion of a problem?
Fear and anxiety can be so insidious - Only way though it, is to do it, I say = need some cruiser therapy miles to regain confidence. It wan't pure luck you made it, these things just work too if put in decent TLC.I have even gone so far as to look into a tow bar .... Crazy ain’t it? I hate it
There is a whole thread dedicated to this. I added an update when I did mine. I am about to clean them up some more when I refinish my hatch and install a tailgate:
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'72 FJ40 Liftgate Struts
Does anyone have an update on which strut part # fits in the 71's?forum.ih8mud.com
Was finally able to get my hand behind the dash and swap out the bulb for the high beams. Unfortunately, when I went to start the car after, wouldn't turn over, just a click when turning the ignition. Lights all worked. Replaced the ignition coil fuse, didn't work. Stuck my hand back up under the dash to trace out the ignition wires. Founded a fused connection in there. Pulled the fuse, was good. Turns out it is for the horn button on the dash (steering wheel horn buttons don't work). Put the fuse back in, tried the ignition, truck started right up. Turned it off, pulled the fuse again, truck started right up. Just wanted to make sure the horn wasn't tied into the ignition somehow. (like a rats nest under the dash) It wasn't. Not sure what I did but I fixed it. Somehow jiggling he wiring broke and fixed the problem?
I had the same issue a few years ago... ammeter connections were loose, but never had an issue until I tipped the instrument cluster fwd to replace the bulbs....Is your factory amp meter still functional?
Mine did the same thing until I decided to remove the amp meter from the equation. You could wiggle the big wires at the back of the meter and cause loss of power.
If this is the case and you want it to work you’ll need to remove the cluster and clean the connections.