What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (60 Viewers)

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I’ve been running hot over the summer. I’m still running 195 to 200 in the cold months with a 383 stroker and a Ron Davis radiator. Someone told me my AC was overcharged, so I drained it and install a trianry switch so the electric fan would come on when ever the AC kicked on…still hot.

Was underneath sizing up sliders when I noticed 0 clearance on the Y pipe on the oil pan. Couldn’t even slide a piece of paper between them. Hoping this is the problem 🤞.
 
We probably need more info. Is it carb'd or injected, what exhaust manifolds, Headers? Is the y pipe hand made or store bought? Whats the rest of the exhaust like? What's the temp on the t stat,? Does it actually overheat or rise much higher than 200? 195-200* is within the operating range especially if it's fi. I do like my carb'd running lower, though.
 
We probably need more info. Is it carb'd or injected, what exhaust manifolds, Headers? Is the y pipe hand made or store bought? Whats the rest of the exhaust like? What's the temp on the t stat,? Does it actually overheat or rise much higher than 200? 195-200* is within the operating range especially if it's fi. I do like my carb'd running lower, though.
I agree, more info needed.

Another question. What is ambient temp? Electric fans suck IMO. Most can’t move enough air to do the full job of replacing a clutch fan.

Biggest question I have is what temperature thermostat is in the engine.
 
Back on the road after 9 months!
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Discovered the two lower bolts on the timing gear cover are the source of small leak. (ordered parts to fix).

Then, Installed new Energy Suspension body mounts (two 2x4’s with blocks and jack..,don’t forget to unbolt the tub from the front fenders). My truck never had the mount that gets bolted down through rear floor…Need to deploy some precision measurement to blind drill to hopefully hit the bullseye in the frame mount hole to install my last two mount.

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What parts did you order to fix the small leak at the bottom of the timing gear cover? I have the same problem.
 
If it’s just leaking past the bolts some FIPG will cure that.
 
We probably need more info. Is it carb'd or injected, what exhaust manifolds, Headers? Is the y pipe hand made or store bought? Whats the rest of the exhaust like? What's the temp on the t stat,? Does it actually overheat or rise much higher than 200? 195-200* is within the operating range especially if it's fi. I do like my carb'd running lower, though.

I agree, more info needed.

Another question. What is ambient temp? Electric fans suck IMO. Most can’t move enough air to do the full job of replacing a clutch fan.

Biggest question I have is what temperature thermostat is in the engine.
Hand made y pipe which collects two one at the front of the transmission then flows into a muffler (would need to research which one) and then carries out over the axel and behind the wheel. 2.5 inch pipe.

When it’s northwest hot out, 95+, I need to switch the AC from cold to hot every 3 to 4 minutes. If I left the AC on, it would hit 240 I believe. Temperature now is 40 to 50 and it runs between 190 to 205.

Thermostat is a 190, and new.

Sniper Holley FI with Sanderson block hugger exhaust manifolds.

I’m not sure I under stand the question, “what’s the temp on the T stat”? Can I assume that is my gauge temp off the front of the intake manifold or the thermostat answered above?
 
Another fully restored updated & polarized KUSTOM KOITo LED UNICORN is born ...🦄



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@MaltbyPenn
It sounds like the y pipe could be an issue if it's near touching the oil pan, but it probably won't fix the hot problem. If it's as close as you say, it should be addressed and it's a good place to start. I was wanting to know when your t stat opens. You said 190*, so it will not run below that temp. You can check your fi instructions, but most fuel injected engines need to run around 190 to 220. I'm not a fan of electric fans either. I dont believe they can move enuff air. When you added ac you blocked air flow to the rad with the ac condenser positioned in frt of it. You might consider a good fan shroud and an engine driven aggressive straight or clutch fan properly located in the shroud. It sounds like your cooling system is close but not quite enuff. You may need a larger rad too. But I'd start with the fan setup.
 
Hand made y pipe which collects two one at the front of the transmission then flows into a muffler (would need to research which one) and then carries out over the axel and behind the wheel. 2.5 inch pipe.

When it’s northwest hot out, 95+, I need to switch the AC from cold to hot every 3 to 4 minutes. If I left the AC on, it would hit 240 I believe. Temperature now is 40 to 50 and it runs between 190 to 205.

Thermostat is a 190, and new.

Sniper Holley FI with Sanderson block hugger exhaust manifolds.

I’m not sure I under stand the question, “what’s the temp on the T stat”? Can I assume that is my gauge temp off the front of the intake manifold or the thermostat answered above?

Your 190 thermostat is your limiting factor.

You can go to any decent parts store and get a 160 degree thermostat for your engine which will help considerably.
 
Your 190 thermostat is your limiting factor.

You can go to any decent parts store and get a 160 degree thermostat for your engine which will help considerably.

Agree. When I lived in west Texas, I changed-out the thermostat on every car and truck I owned while there, for a lower-temp one and it did help.
 
some relaxing bright work , sealed after with only TOP SHELF marine Grade Life Time NOS in a Can ........



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