What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (49 Viewers)

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Still in body work purgatory. Opening every cavity to clean it out and remove rust before I start re-assembly. Found some PO had dropped a screwdriver down the post hole for the hard top. I played the most excellent… Wild Stallions! game of operation and retrieved it. No way in hell I’m letting some Philips Head screwdriver violate my restoration. I may have left it if I knew it was a JIS.

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And a couple of rust photos for fun.

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Two public service announcements: 1) do not put any undercoating or bedliner type product under your 40. It just traps water and causes more rust (my opinion, take it or leave it) and it makes repairs more difficult,. 2) this is a my bad situation. I sandblasted the tub. Don’t do that. It gets into all the seams and cavities and isn’t worth it. If I had to do over again I would have the tub chemical dipped. Oh well, next time.
 
Still in body work purgatory. Opening every cavity to clean it out and remove rust before I start re-assembly. Found some PO had dropped a screwdriver down the post hole for the hard top. I played the most excellent… Wild Stallions! game of operation and retrieved it. No way in hell I’m letting some Philips Head screwdriver violate my restoration. I may have left it if I knew it was a JIS.

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And a couple of rust photos for fun.

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Two public service announcements: 1) do not put any undercoating or bedliner type product under your 40. It just traps water and causes more rust (my opinion, take it or leave it) and it makes repairs more difficult,. 2) this is a my bad situation. I sandblasted the tub. Don’t do that. It gets into all the seams and cavities and isn’t worth it. If I had to do over again I would have the tub chemical dipped. Oh well, next time.
2nd that. My PO had the ENTIRE of the inside of the cab rubber lined :bang: I'm still removing it in some places, and the rust that it hid is mind blowing.
 
2nd that. My PO had the ENTIRE of the inside of the cab rubber lined :bang: I'm still removing it in some places, and the rust that it hid is mind blowing.
I’m willing to bet there’s a lot of hidden rust on mine, but 1. I don’t want to know about it until I can afford a new tub and 2. I don’t see any new bubbles in the paint so hopefully that’s a good sign
 
If I can’t pay for it, I don’t even want to discover it. That’s a later problem
 
Electrical harness frame clips for the win!


Who says you cant be a dork and have fun working on cruisers. :p



very kool video , i like the quick-surprise creeper maneuver :D
 
checking-in inventory can be interesting sometimes , especially on a Saturday night on the weekend ...



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In
I’m willing to bet there’s a lot of hidden rust on mine, but 1. I don’t want to know about it until I can afford a new tub and 2. I don’t see any new bubbles in the paint so hopefully that’s a good sign
In a way, I wish I didn't know either. But I now I do, so....
 
Still in body work purgatory. Opening every cavity to clean it out and remove rust before I start re-assembly. Found some PO had dropped a screwdriver down the post hole for the hard top. I played the most excellent… Wild Stallions! game of operation and retrieved it. No way in hell I’m letting some Philips Head screwdriver violate my restoration. I may have left it if I knew it was a JIS.

View attachment 3226158View attachment 3226159View attachment 3226160

And a couple of rust photos for fun.

View attachment 3226163View attachment 3226164

Two public service announcements: 1) do not put any undercoating or bedliner type product under your 40. It just traps water and causes more rust (my opinion, take it or leave it) and it makes repairs more difficult,. 2) this is a my bad situation. I sandblasted the tub. Don’t do that. It gets into all the seams and cavities and isn’t worth it. If I had to do over again I would have the tub chemical dipped. Oh well, next time.
One day folks will also hopefully will learn to also not to powder coat frames and such. Chemical dipping and ecoating is the only way to have a good base for coating steel. There’s a reason manufacturers don’t powder as the sole coating, it’s not a lasting solution.
 
One day folks will also hopefully will learn to also not to powder coat frames and such. Chemical dipping and ecoating is the only way to have a good base for coating steel. There’s a reason manufacturers don’t powder as the sole coating, it’s not a lasting solution.
Like most everything, the reason is profit. If there is a cheaper way to do it, that is what they are going to do. Remember, no manufacturer builds anything to last 50 years. It only has to last 3 years and then they're ghost. A good powder coating job will outlast the rattle can equivalent car makers put on the frame, 100:1. Newer cars are getting better, ecoating etc. but that's probably because they're using much thinner metal today.
 
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Started my first axle rebuild. I was shocked to find out the diff already had a Detroit style locker.



I’m planning on replacing it with an ARB.



Reused my tube bender engine stand to mount my pinion on a piece of plate metal. Thought a profile tool and a plasma torch would be quick work, but it was way more trimming to fit.

If anyone still needs pro bono hours in the PNW and have done this before, I’m buying the beers 🍺.
I’m no where near you, but I’m in the process of installing an ARB as well. Take it slow, it’s not rocket surgery;). Heat up things that need to slide over and freeze the stuff that goes inside.
Currently I’m stuck on the pinion bearing removal, but it’ll give.
Read the instructions, then read them again.

Enjoy it.
 
the final rendition of the most Heavy Duty Tough as Nails late modle 40 Series 9/77-10/85 double tanks set coolant over flow and washer bottle reservoir i can pipe dream up and design a few key features to apply our new in-house SNOW VERSION label and TAG to it ...

they include :

- Made in JAPAN heavy duty OEM pump motor assy. ( This IS NOT your Grandmas Auto Zone Trico China Ghetto Trash )

- upgraded stainless steel mounting screws used to mount the pump motor to the bottle it-self

- a much thicker & special hard shell plastic OEM TOYOTA NON-USA Cold Spec. washer cap

- our reproduction OEM UV rated Blue Tint washer pump hose , ( 3' feet included )

- #8 mark head Silver Violet Zinc Plated qty x 3 double SEMS wide fender washer equipped mounting bolts ( the silver violet plating has the highest salt spray test rating ....fyi )

- our over flow suction hose is a thick wall EPDM rubber that WILL NOT snap off in extremely cold or hot weather like the stock white plastic ones do ....

- so that's how i approached offering the best possible and longest lasting service life 40 series washer & coolant double tanks set-up bottles on the planet ..... :cool:




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