What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (67 Viewers)

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First off, let's get it out of the way - yes, I'm a geek.

I've had this truck for about eight years now, and the dash has always kinda bugged me. It's no restoration queen, but I hated these holes in the dash:

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So after some searching, I found some appropriately shaped knobs for my first idea for these blank spaces:

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In the interim, I scoured the internet for the needed pieces - a spring-loaded momentary pull switch and an extra garage door opener remote I could hack up:

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So now, I have a 'stealth' garage door opener in place of the throttle knob (that didn't come with the truck and I have no need for):




Totally legit.
 
@hooter that is some SERIOUS transfer case porn, better hide that from the children! Serious attention to detail sir, nicely done!
 
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Die of heat exhaustion like a real man!
I am assuming your rig is running on OME 2.5 kit and 33X10.5 BFG MT’s? I like the stance.
 
I am assuming your rig is running on OME 2.5 kit and 33X10.5 BFG MT’s? I like the stance.
Dunno about the lift but those are Maxxis RAZR tires. I'm on the fence between those and KM3s.
 
Does the ‘77 have an obnoxious buzzer as well? Nice work Rick👍

Just the light. The only buzzer I know on the '77 is for the seat belt....and mine isn't connected at this time.
 
Just the light. The only buzzer I know on the '77 is for the seat belt....and mine isn't connected at this time.
Yep you are right Rick, now that I think of it it is the seat belt connector👌
 
@GA Architect That light console on my brothers ‘76 is not connected and dangles sometimes, what holds it in place? Missing hardware. Thanks
 
Dunno about the lift but those are Maxxis RAZR tires. I'm on the fence between those and KM3s.

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I dig my Maxxis Razrs on my 40, I have BFG KO2s on my truck, not a complaint about them other than some road damage, and the fact they were about an inch shorter than my bald Nitto tires.

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I finished reassembling the rebuilt F engine 2-bbl. carburetor for my '71 FJ40 build and installed it on the '76 2F that's in the '71 now. The '71 will eventually be getting the low-mileage '76 2F that's currently in my '76 FJ40. All that's need to get the 2F running is some fresh fuel, a return spring for the '73 bellcrank assembly, and the linkage rod between the bellcrank and the carburetor throttle linkage. I'll have photos of the completed installation tomorrow, but for now, here's how it looked before installation:

FJ40-Carburetor-1.jpg


FJ40-Carburetor-2.jpg


FJ40-Carburetor-3.jpg


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And while I was at it, I ran a vacuum line from the carburetor (that's had an advance port added - see the fourth photo) to the non-US points distributor (with octane selector) that's been in the 2F since shortly after I bought the '71 back in '99. All this time waiting for vacuum :). I did check to see if the advancer worked using a hand vacuum pump, and it works fine, so I should be good to go. I want to get the 2F running again so I can do a compression test and leak down test.
 
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First off, let's get it out of the way - yes, I'm a geek.

I've had this truck for about eight years now, and the dash has always kinda bugged me. It's no restoration queen, but I hated these holes in the dash:

View attachment 2108351

So after some searching, I found some appropriately shaped knobs for my first idea for these blank spaces:

View attachment 2108359

In the interim, I scoured the internet for the needed pieces - a spring-loaded momentary pull switch and an extra garage door opener remote I could hack up:

View attachment 2108364

View attachment 2108366

So now, I have a 'stealth' garage door opener in place of the throttle knob (that didn't come with the truck and I have no need for):


That is so slick I would buy a setup if available.
 
First off, let's get it out of the way - yes, I'm a geek.

I've had this truck for about eight years now, and the dash has always kinda bugged me. It's no restoration queen, but I hated these holes in the dash:

View attachment 2108351

So after some searching, I found some appropriately shaped knobs for my first idea for these blank spaces:

View attachment 2108359

In the interim, I scoured the internet for the needed pieces - a spring-loaded momentary pull switch and an extra garage door opener remote I could hack up:

View attachment 2108364

View attachment 2108366

So now, I have a 'stealth' garage door opener in place of the throttle knob (that didn't come with the truck and I have no need for):


Where did you hide the board at?
 
Where did you hide the board at?
It's back in the original case up under the dash. Outta sight, but easy access to replace the battery when it eventually dies.
 
I finished modifying my accelerator pedal and hand throttle cable for my '71 FJ40 build. Hand throttle cable assembly and bracket from @FJ40GURU and my original pedal. A while back I had cut off the lower end of an FJ62 accelerator pedal for another MUD member and I saved the top. I cut off the section with the square opening, then cut it and bent it to fit around the FJ40 pedal. Then I welded it up. I used a square white nylon screw grommet for the cable guide at the pedal.

I had to bend the throttle cable bracket up and out of the way of the '81 Toyota pickup fuse panel I had installed in the stock location. That required a short extension of the sheathed part of the hand throttle cable. I picked up a couple of steel tension pins at the local hardware store this morning - a larger diameter pin that would slip over the crimped metal end of the cable sheath and a smaller diameter pin that would slip inside the larger one. I opened up the slits in the pins with a Dremel cutoff wheel so they would slip over the cable. I slipped them over the cable and welded the smaller pin into the larger pin, then placed a small weld bead to fasten the larger pin to the crimped metal piece on the cable sheath. I finished it off with some heat shrink tubing. The smaller pin fits under the clamping part of the bracket. I dug through my parts bins and found a 5mm machine screw and nut to clamp it down.

This afternoon the mailman delivered the custom carburetor throttle cable kit from @Downey. Tomorrow I'll finish assembling the carburetor then install it with the '73 bellcrank assembly from @65swb45. I need to fabricate the rod linkage from the bellcrank to the carburetor linkage using an FJ60 rod lengthened by a steel spacer I picked up this morning at the hardware store. So another small welding job.

Once everything is hooked up and adjusted it'll be time to fire up the '76 2F that's under the hood.

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View attachment 2105964
I finished reassembling the rebuilt F engine 2-bbl. carburetor for my '71 FJ40 build and installed it on the '76 2F that's in the '71 now. The '71 will eventually be getting the low-mileage '76 2F that's currently in my '76 FJ40. All that's need to get the 2F running is some fresh fuel, a return spring for the '73 bellcrank assembly, and the linkage rod between the bellcrank and the carburetor throttle linkage. I'll have photos of the completed installation tomorrow, but for now, here's how it looked before installation:

View attachment 2108788

View attachment 2108789

View attachment 2108790

View attachment 2108791

And while I was at it, I ran a vacuum line from the carburetor (that's had an advance port added - see the fourth photo) to the non-US points distributor (with octane selector) that's been in the 2F since shortly after I bought the '71 back in '99. All this time waiting for vacuum :). I did check to see if the advancer worked using a hand vacuum pump, and it works fine, so I should be good to go. I want to get the 2F running again so I can do a compression test and leak down test.
Success! This morning I put fresh fuel in the tank and cranked the engine to check that the fuel pump was working and to purge the last bit of old fuel from the lines and pump. That all checked out OK, so I reconnected the hard fuel line at the carburetor and cranked the engine a bit more. The fuel level was almost exactly mid-point in the sight glass. Next I adjusted the throttle cable at the bellcrank, installed the rod linkage between the bellcrank and the carburetor linkage, and installed the throttle return spring into the bellcrank assembly. Put the key in the ignition, pulled out the choke knob, gave the carburetor a squirt through the accelerator pump, and fired it up. Took less than a minute to get it running smoothly. Then I attached the dwell/tach/voltmeter and connected the vacuum gauge. I tuned the carburetor using the lean drop method and then set the idle RPM to 650 and let it run (it's still running smoothly and sounds like a well oiled sewing machine). That's very encouraging because the 2F hasn't been running since ~2002.

Some details:

- February or March 1976 2F with unknown history, with F engine intake/exhaust manifolds, F engine air cleaner, and non-US points distributor with octane selector

- June 1969 F engine 2-bbl. carburetor with 110 primary main jet and 180 secondary main jet (for 7,240 foot elevation)

- Idle vacuum @650 RPM 14.8 in Hg (at 7,240 foot elevation)

Next I'll set the timing, maybe by adjusting the octane selector, and adjust the valves. Then I'll do a compression test and cylinder leak down test.
 

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