Thank you John!
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (18 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Thank you John!
Installed land cruiser air box in my 3FE powered 40. Scoured the pick and pull for air tubes that would work. The 22 degree fitting and expanding fitting on either side of the metal intake tube are from an infinity G35X. The flex coupling on the air box intake is from a land rover discovery. The right angle bend is cut from a piece I found in a 92 FJ80, not sure it was actually from that truck since it was laying in the back. I brazed in the new nipple for the IAC valve tap in the metal tube using the metal coupling pulled from the FJ62 intake tube.
The airbox bottom is from an HJ60, the top is the FJ62 top. Needed to remove the two supports from the air box and rework them to fit the FJ40 fender. Also had to remove the coil mount from the fender.
The airbox took the space for the battery on the passenger side so it was relocated to the driver side using the BTB battery tray. I need to rework the battery (waiting for delivery of optima 34/78 and ruff stuff holder). Also ordered some heat shrink tube and high temp FG sleeve for the 1 AWG starter cable.
The airbox bottom is from an HJ60, the top is the FJ62 top. Needed to remove the two supports from the air box and rework them to fit the FJ40 fender. Also had to remove the coil mount from the fender.
The airbox took the space for the battery on the passenger side so it was relocated to the driver side using the BTB battery tray. I need to rework the battery (waiting for delivery of optima 34/78 and ruff stuff holder). Also ordered some heat shrink tube and high temp FG sleeve for the 1 AWG starter cable.
sterling
SILVER Star
Groundhog day.Hardtop 2nd coat Rust Ole um topside paint gloss white.
@imyahucklbrry credit for the help.
@imyahucklbrry credit for the help.
Flipped the rear springs and started prepping for moving the fender wells back.
Plan is to move the front opening back 3" and the rear of the opening back 4". After that will be pulling the rear axle and tearing it down for new bearings and rear disc converversion.
Plan is to move the front opening back 3" and the rear of the opening back 4". After that will be pulling the rear axle and tearing it down for new bearings and rear disc converversion.
Pulled out old liner on my top and ready to order 3M Roloc green wheel to clean up old adhesive and foam on it. Refurbished and painted my jump seats and installed new Cruiser Corps straps, 11 inch worked great!
Thanks to Ron at San Francisco Toyota- my mirrors came in!
Sanded and bead blasted the windshield frame and welded up the PO's holes he drilled for the bikini top.
Then, I fell and cracked a couple of ribs on my right side while helping the wife mulch the flower beds. Bummer!
Then, I fell and cracked a couple of ribs on my right side while helping the wife mulch the flower beds. Bummer!
That sucks, it's a sign!!! don't work on the garden work on the important things not flower beds
David70FJ40
Older Than Most
Thought about electric power steering for my 40 but dumped the idea when I realized I would have to reuse the worn out steering gear box and all the wobbly linkage. I was not steering before I added power steering, just aiming the 40 down the road. Electric power steering would have just made the aiming easier.
sterling
SILVER Star
A while back I removed the old seam sealer with a sander and putty knife.
After that I used a 3m self leveling seam sealer, sorry don't remember the exact product number.
It was a suggestion from a thread I found here.
@sterling thanks for the response! I also have a slightly loose rivet I believe it is that goes thru the front top area and to the piece under the top that rides along the windshield top frame, actually on the gasket. So it has a tiny wiggle and afraid it may leak there. I will post up a pic when I get home.
The product I'm using (thanks to @GA Architect) is made by Dicor... it's a self leveling sealant that you can buy at an rv supply store
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sterling
SILVER Star
Yes, I believe so, it has been a while.
The Rust-Oleum coating really made it come together and fill in any imperfections that were noticeable where the caulk wasn't smooth before.
