What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (20 Viewers)

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Spent some quality time with my son cleaning her up!
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Always hated the look of my locally made willow Vale load tray... it's too long, too wide and doesn't fit snug against the cab...

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So I've been trying to think of how to fix it. Messed around with the above picture to plan what I want to do. Here's what I came up with...
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So, shorten it so the load tray is symmetrical over the axle. Extend it down to meet the bottom of the cab and carry that line through to the back. Move it up closer to the cab. And lift the whole body by about 2 inches.

Looks so much better. Now all I need to do is figure out the width issues
 
Been chasing front 'wheel bearing play' for some time - which in the end (should've known) turned out to be worn stub axles allowing the outer bearing cones to move around, as evidenced by the neat groove in the left and right side spacer washers. Both outer bearing seats were quite worn and certainly didn't pass the fingernail test. Probably not helped by the extra weight of the 12HT and neg 22 offset rims.

The strip down also revealed that a full knuckle and wheel bearing overhaul was due when a water/grease mix ran out of the hub after just too many river crossings. I also don't remember the front diff oil being coffee colored when I put it in. And because I can ... I thought while I'm at it I'll treat the 40 to some new black steelies and 31" KM2's, along with 3 deg caster wedges to finally allow me to relax a bit while trying to drive in a straight line! Much less twitchy now.

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The replacement housing studs are a bit longer than the existing ones-but correct OEM part according to Toyota.
 
Installed marine/ATV remote control, Bluetooth speaker system under the seats. Will control with iPad mini4. Fear not, purists--it was a chopped up, rust bucket, bondomobile before I started. Now a restomod BJ40 island hopper in the Philippines. Native Texan retired to the islands.






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I obviously do not understand how to do pics on this site, sorry..
 
@Vae Victus Scott there's no need to grovel. We generally keep a stock of white shirts on hand. They run $20.00 plus shipping. You can contact Kyle through our Facebook page and order directly from him.

On those 60 tunnel covers. Understand that only the small portion on top unbolts. I used my original 45 tunnel cover along with the 60 top cover. The 60 cover was used to cover up the enlarged opening for the 5 speed and split case stick.
 
Pulled my bedbox out of the 45 for the first time in 10 years since I built it. When I built it, I was in aux tank mode, and I wondered if I could make it 'tight'.

Recent rains conspired to confirm I had indeed achieved my goal. Yesterday I added two drain holes.
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nice day sunday, so I take the 45LPB out for a spin, about 20 miles away it started to run kinda crappy. Happens every year, the cap needs to be replaced because its a fj60 dizzy(on 77 2f) and I have no good provision to filter it properly, its just a hose that goes into the cab, been like this since I put it on 10 years ago(great mod BTW)

I carry a spare used and/or new OEM cap and used rotor(off a good running 40 or 60).........no big deal, pull over, pull out the new cap, start to replace the wires and SOB!....the coil wire busted at the cap. No spare, limited tools(worlds smallest Leatherman and Toyota hammer, some tape).....and my bad as it seems I just used the old wires the dizzy came with....and they sure were not Toyota. (I know I planed on replacing them...hmmm?)

So I am left with this and thats about it........its not even a wire its like nylon....or so it seems, I could see no way it would make spark
'

well with little left to loose, I stuffed that wire-ish stuff back in the new cap, pushed the boot over it, added some duct tape.......and turned the key.....it fired right up and purred like a kitten, drove home with no issues, ran great

its amazing what little it takes to make these things run!!!



came home, grabbed an old used wire, popped it on and went to run errands.

ordered 2 sets of fj60 OEM wires, figure I will replace my 1999 vintage wires on the fj60 and use those on the 45 :)

EDIT, turns out the wires were OEM from 2002, just the coil wire was an old Beldan.......I feel better......at least I replaced 6 of the 7 wires back in the day.
 
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Took the 42 out for the day!

Its above zero, its melty and slushy and salty but i dont care i just cant leave it sit in the garage. Its getting some body work redone next winter so ill just love the hell out of it!!

 
Been chasing front 'wheel bearing play' for some time - which in the end (should've known) turned out to be worn stub axles allowing the outer bearing cones to move around, as evidenced by the neat groove in the left and right side spacer washers. Both outer bearing seats were quite worn and certainly didn't pass the fingernail test. Probably not helped by the extra weight of the 12HT and neg 22 offset rims.

The strip down also revealed that a full knuckle and wheel bearing overhaul was due when a water/grease mix ran out of the hub after just too many river crossings. I also don't remember the front diff oil being coffee colored when I put it in. And because I can ... I thought while I'm at it I'll treat the 40 to some new black steelies and 31" KM2's, along with 3 deg caster wedges to finally allow me to relax a bit while trying to drive in a straight line! Much less twitchy now.

Have been having wandering issues with my BJ4 replaced the rag joint, rotated all the tyres (yes we spell it this way!!& also use the metric system, bite me) had a full front end alignment so after the steering box hope that fixes it, if not will be walking down the same path.o_O
Actually did'nt even think of worn axel stubs or shims. (Still a Nooob) Cheers for the post.
 

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