What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

IMG_3441.webp

Had the swb 45 towed from my house down to my shop for the final leg of my ownership. I didn’t feel like taking a chance on the brakes since it has been sitting for basically a decade. I will be rebuilding the entire brake system over the next few weeks.

After that I’ve got another couple of months worth of work to install all the parts that I collected for a refresh about nine years ago when I was helping @DSB345 with his frame-up. I had forgotten how much stuff I still had in the queue until I got all of my camping gear out of the bed.😛
 
jesus888 said:
Was there anything obviously wrong with your original one? Or was this just one of the last parts to check? We replaced my entire fuel system and while it reduced the fuel smell, it's still there, and I'm at a loss to find the culprit...
Click to expand...
One of the male fuel grommets (don't know what else to call it..." Was broken off. Also found the fitting in the The center section on top of the fuel tank was loose with no type of sealant on it... Hope you find your problem...😎
 
@TheEngineer this is from ChatGPT if it has any value… you may get better results given you know the specifications of the truck

For the diesel long wheelbase Toyota Land Cruiser HJ47 with the 2H six cylinder diesel, these are the commonly accepted factory fluid capacities and types. There are small variations depending on year, transmission, and whether it is a Troopy or pickup body, but this will get you very close for normal service work.

Component​
Fluid Type​
Approx. Capacity​
Engine oil (2H diesel)
15W-40 diesel oil (API CK-4/CJ-4 or similar)
10.5 to 11 L (11.1 to 11.6 qt) with filter

Cooling system
Toyota red coolant or equivalent 50/50
13 to 15 L

Manual transmission (H55F 5-speed)
GL-4 75W-90 gear oil
3.5 to 4.0 L

Transfer case
GL-4 or GL-5 75W-90
1.8 to 2.0 L

Front differential
GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-90
2.7 to 3.0 L

Rear differential
GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-90
3.0 to 3.7 L

Steering box
Gear oil or chassis grease depending on rebuild/setup
Fill to level

Brake system
DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid
About 0.7 L for flush

Clutch hydraulic system
DOT 3 or DOT 4
Small amount

Fuel tank
Diesel
Usually 90 L factory main tank

Wheel bearing grease
High-temp wheel bearing grease
As needed
A couple of important Land Cruiser caveats from the “old iron survives forever” department 🛠️:
  • The H55F transmission prefers GL-4, not aggressive GL-5, because GL-5 can be harsh on yellow metals in synchros.
  • Many HJ47s have aftermarket auxiliary tanks, PTO winches, or swapped axles, which can change differential and transfer capacities.
  • The 2H diesel holds a lot of oil by modern standards because it is basically a cast-iron locomotive wearing a Toyota badge. 🚂
The HJ47 was the later 40-series diesel using the 4.0L 2H engine.
 
Last edited:
knuckle47 said:
@the engineer this is from ChatGPT if it has any value… you may get better results given you know the specifications of the truck

For the diesel long wheelbase Toyota Land Cruiser HJ47 with the 2H six cylinder diesel, these are the commonly accepted factory fluid capacities and types. There are small variations depending on year, transmission, and whether it is a Troopy or pickup body, but this will get you very close for normal service work.

Component​
Fluid Type​
Approx. Capacity​
Engine oil (2H diesel)
15W-40 diesel oil (API CK-4/CJ-4 or similar)
10.5 to 11 L (11.1 to 11.6 qt) with filter

Cooling system
Toyota red coolant or equivalent 50/50
13 to 15 L

Manual transmission (H55F 5-speed)
GL-4 75W-90 gear oil
3.5 to 4.0 L

Transfer case
GL-4 or GL-5 75W-90
1.8 to 2.0 L

Front differential
GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-90
2.7 to 3.0 L

Rear differential
GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-90
3.0 to 3.7 L

Steering box
Gear oil or chassis grease depending on rebuild/setup
Fill to level

Brake system
DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid
About 0.7 L for flush

Clutch hydraulic system
DOT 3 or DOT 4
Small amount

Fuel tank
Diesel
Usually 90 L factory main tank

Wheel bearing grease
High-temp wheel bearing grease
As needed
A couple of important Land Cruiser caveats from the “old iron survives forever” department 🛠️:
  • The H55F transmission prefers GL-4, not aggressive GL-5, because GL-5 can be harsh on yellow metals in synchros.
  • Many HJ47s have aftermarket auxiliary tanks, PTO winches, or swapped axles, which can change differential and transfer capacities.
  • The 2H diesel holds a lot of oil by modern standards because it is basically a cast-iron locomotive wearing a Toyota badge. 🚂
The HJ47 was the later 40-series diesel using the 4.0L 2H engine.
Click to expand...
This is a good place to start, thank you! Some of the fluids match from my searching but the amounts seem high.
 
knuckle47 said:
@the engineer this is from ChatGPT if it has any value… you may get better results given you know the specifications of the truck

For the diesel long wheelbase Toyota Land Cruiser HJ47 with the 2H six cylinder diesel, these are the commonly accepted factory fluid capacities and types. There are small variations depending on year, transmission, and whether it is a Troopy or pickup body, but this will get you very close for normal service work.

Component​
Fluid Type​
Approx. Capacity​
Engine oil (2H diesel)
15W-40 diesel oil (API CK-4/CJ-4 or similar)
10.5 to 11 L (11.1 to 11.6 qt) with filter

Cooling system
Toyota red coolant or equivalent 50/50
13 to 15 L

Manual transmission (H55F 5-speed)
GL-4 75W-90 gear oil
3.5 to 4.0 L

Transfer case
GL-4 or GL-5 75W-90
1.8 to 2.0 L

Front differential
GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-90
2.7 to 3.0 L

Rear differential
GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-90
3.0 to 3.7 L

Steering box
Gear oil or chassis grease depending on rebuild/setup
Fill to level

Brake system
DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid
About 0.7 L for flush

Clutch hydraulic system
DOT 3 or DOT 4
Small amount

Fuel tank
Diesel
Usually 90 L factory main tank

Wheel bearing grease
High-temp wheel bearing grease
As needed
A couple of important Land Cruiser caveats from the “old iron survives forever” department 🛠️:
  • The H55F transmission prefers GL-4, not aggressive GL-5, because GL-5 can be harsh on yellow metals in synchros.
  • Many HJ47s have aftermarket auxiliary tanks, PTO winches, or swapped axles, which can change differential and transfer capacities.
  • The 2H diesel holds a lot of oil by modern standards because it is basically a cast-iron locomotive wearing a Toyota badge. 🚂
The HJ47 was the later 40-series diesel using the 4.0L 2H engine.
Click to expand...
In my giant stack of stuff I got with the truck I have found these. (I had the orange one already for my 84 60 series, but hopefully some of it applies this 84 hj47)


IMG_7636.webp



And on page 11 of the Gregory’s manual we get this.

IMG_7637.webp


If anyone needs scans of specific pages, feel free to reach out.
 
cims1970fj40 said:
I was installing my driver side rear barn door and noticed a decent size gap between the body and door. The passenger side fits perfectly. Any help on identifying what’s going on would greatly be appreciated.
Can get additional pictures tomorrow when the sun is up if needed.

View attachment 4141150

View attachment 4141152

View attachment 4141155
Click to expand...
You install the hinges backwards? As in top on bottom? I forget but aren’t they different profiles on the hanger part of the hinge assembly?
 
Definitely the best day with the 40 I’ve had other than the day I got it. @Lifelong40Fan visited Asheville and somehow was able to convince his family that a total stranger needed a long help….which was true. He helped me change out the manifold gasket, set the valves, timing, and adjust the carb. I was a spectator for most of it. No vacuum leaks and when I say the 40 drives completely different…wow. Instead of 2,000 rpm it is now at 650. Sounds different, drives/shifts different….I can hear music. Thank you @Lifelong40Fan !!!

IMG_8269.webp


IMG_8271.webp


IMG_8268.webp
 
sleepycruiser said:
Definitely the best day with the 40 I’ve had other than the day I got it. @Lifelong40Fan visited Asheville and somehow was able to convince his family that a total stranger needed a long help….which was true. He helped me change out the manifold gasket, set the valves, timing, and adjust the carb. I was a spectator for most of it. No vacuum leaks and when I say the 40 drives completely different…wow. Instead of 2,000 rpm it is now at 650. Sounds different, drives/shifts different….I can hear music. Thank you @Lifelong40Fan !!!

View attachment 4141431

View attachment 4141433

View attachment 4141434
Click to expand...
Love the chrome bezel!
 
Pitter Patter said:
You install the hinges backwards? As in top on bottom? I forget but aren’t they different profiles on the hanger part of the hinge assembly?
Click to expand...
So it is the hinges on drivers side that’s the problem. I ended up getting a set from a local member and had them painted because I felt like they were a little better condition than my original ones.

The passenger sides are fine and are the correct hinges, but for some reason the driver side isn’t. Probably for another year probably or another door on the cruiser. I’m just going to use the original on the drivers side.

In the photo, the one circled is the one I received from the member and it’s not laying flat where the original is.

IMG_8034.webp


IMG_8035.webp
 
My SuperBright cluster LED’s showed up so installed them. Decided while the smaller profile green LED’s do fit and work, it’s not enough light output for me so I went back to the original larger LED’s that are too long. Modified the “housing” dome scatter shield for lack of a word and made the room for them to be inserted easily. Dremel cut-off wheel took about 15 seconds
IMG_0707.webp
IMG_0711.webp
IMG_0713.webp
IMG_0717.webp
IMG_0718.webp

Also found that the SuperBright replacement socket twist lock has a greater electrical contact surface than the stock ones and fit perfectly. Anyway…I finally have my green LED illuminated dash cluster

Also repainted the gauge needles. That also only took about 90 seconds to do…why this project took me 4 hours to do is beyond me

IMG_0684.webp
IMG_0708.webp
 
knuckle47 said:
My SuperBright cluster LED’s showed up so installed them. Decided while the smaller profile green LED’s do fit and work, it’s not enough light output for me so I went back to the original larger LED’s that are too long. Modified the “housing” dome scatter shield for lack of a word and made the room for them to be inserted easily. Dremel cut-off wheel took about 15 seconds
View attachment 4141587View attachment 4141588View attachment 4141589View attachment 4141592View attachment 4141594
Also found that the SuperBright replacement socket twist lock has a greater electrical contact surface than the stock ones and fit perfectly. Anyway…I finally have my green LED illuminated dash cluster

Also repainted the gauge needles. That also only took about 90 seconds to do…why this project took me 4 hours to do is beyond me

View attachment 4141603View attachment 4141605
Click to expand...
If you’re ocd like me, that’s a normal amount of time to take 🤣 Love the results, great job.
 
@bernardbar3 I know EXACTLY what you mean…. I didn’t mention that I removed the dash cluster 4 different times including removing the speedometer cable, disconnecting the battery, clearing the base tabs and removing the ammeter leads…4 TIMES !!

Window cleaner on the inside of the dash cluster glass was tough with reflections coming from everywhere
 
knuckle47 said:
My SuperBright cluster LED’s showed up so installed them. Decided while the smaller profile green LED’s do fit and work, it’s not enough light output for me so I went back to the original larger LED’s that are too long. Modified the “housing” dome scatter shield for lack of a word and made the room for them to be inserted easily. Dremel cut-off wheel took about 15 seconds
View attachment 4141587View attachment 4141588View attachment 4141589View attachment 4141592View attachment 4141594
Also found that the SuperBright replacement socket twist lock has a greater electrical contact surface than the stock ones and fit perfectly. Anyway…I finally have my green LED illuminated dash cluster

Also repainted the gauge needles. That also only took about 90 seconds to do…why this project took me 4 hours to do is beyond me

View attachment 4141603View attachment 4141605
Click to expand...
What year is the rig? My rig is a 67



IMG_0813.webp


IMG_4471.webp
 
Last edited:
@mef0629 this one is a ‘75
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom