What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

[nabbasi]

RIP to the fallen soldiers. Got my winter project lined up now. Figuring out how to bend and flare NiCopp to replace these rusted out hard fuel lines. View attachment 4010481
View attachment 4010483

This was one of my favorite winter projects.

Not sure about your application, but there shouldn’t be any need to flare the fuel lines.

You’ll use an 5/16” brass ferrule (“olive”) and tube nut to create a good fit at the carburetor, and a small piece of rubber to the fuel pump.

I’ve had really good luck with a cheap harbor freight tubing bender.

 

[nabbasi]

I hotwired mine today

I was heading home from work, planning on continuing a house project my wife and I spent the weekend working on, when about 4 miles from home I lost all power. No dash, no accessories, nothing. If my lights were working, it was too bright to tell. After making sure everything was connected, no fuses were blown, fusible link was fine, I tested the hazards and they were working. Seemed the issue was the ignition switch.

Luckily, I had some wire in the tool box under the DS seat, so I made a jumper for the always hot and switched wires, and a separate jumper to get it started. Once I got it home and on the bench it seemed to be fine.

 

[Chilkoot]

This was one of my favorite winter projects.

Not sure about your application, but there shouldn’t be any need to flare the fuel lines.

You’ll use an 5/16” brass ferrule (“olive”) and tube nut to create a good fit at the carburetor, and a small piece of rubber to the fuel pump.

I’ve had really good luck with a cheap harbor freight tubing bender.

These lines are on the underside of the rear tub for 79+ models. I believe I’ll need a bubble flare because these all connect to soft rubber lines one side going to the fuel evap isolator and the other going to the charcoal canister. Should be a good time. I was eyeing harbor freights flaring kit as well thanks for the advice!

This is the other set of hard lines too rusted and pitted to comfortably reuse that go from gas tank to fuel evap isolator. You can see more clearly the little ridge that the soft
lines go over before being clamped.

 

[nabbasi]

These lines are on the underside of the rear tub for 79+ models. I believe I’ll need a bubble flare because these all connect to soft rubber lines one side going to the fuel evap isolator and the other going to the charcoal canister. Should be a good time. I was eyeing harbor freights flaring kit as well thanks for the advice!

This is the other set of hard lines too rusted and pitted to comfortably reuse that go from gas tank to fuel evap isolator. You can see more clearly the little ridge that the soft
lines go over before being clamped.

View attachment 4010492

Ah, ‘79! That makes more sense. I think those are just rubber on my ‘78.

I’ve not used a beading tool, but I guess a bubble would work, but be more difficult to slip on?

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Some POR-15.
View attachment 4010374
And I put on a front brake line and front wheel...
View attachment 4010375

2 coats on in time for our vacay tomorrow.

No surprises. Went on smooth and was ready for the second coat in 2.5 hours.
Since it is under the hood I am not going to top coat it. I have done that before when not in direct sun with excellent results. No chaulking.

The pulley is an experiment. It had been laying in a creek (along with it's attached dead 2F) and I had to repair a couple rust holes. I had blasted it careful to prote ted the shaft end, rubber and inside surface. I polished the "Vs" the best I could and am hoping the thickness, toughness and smoothness of the POR-15 will make it a viable back up part.

 

[knuckle47]

@nabbasi When I installed my Sniper fuel injection, there are areas of hardline connected to rubber but it was 3/8” and instead for a solid non-slip connection I placed a compression fitting on the 3/8 line, compressed it and then slip the rubber over that with a clamp…worked great

 

[Ackcruisers]

These lines are on the underside of the rear tub for 79+ models. I believe I’ll need a bubble flare because these all connect to soft rubber lines one side going to the fuel evap isolator and the other going to the charcoal canister. Should be a good time. I was eyeing harbor freights flaring kit as well thanks for the advice!

This is the other set of hard lines too rusted and pitted to comfortably reuse that go from gas tank to fuel evap isolator. You can see more clearly the little ridge that the soft
lines go over before being clamped.

View attachment 4010492

I bought this tool to make my fuel lines. It works very well.

 

[Stiles]

I read a helpful post from @65swb45 that lead me to finally install a dual master cylinder for safety.

My 1976 non USA spec truck has 4 wheel drum brakes so also decided to replace all wheel cylinders and shoes at same time.

This dual master upgrade required new hardline plumbing, firewall bracket (3 hole to 4 - powder coated) and new hardline junction. I needed to hone brake line bending, flaring and selecting the correct fittings (after trial and error like being sent Nissan fittings when ordered Toyota type from Classic Tube).

I decide not to run away from the drum brake complexity and go to disc. After methodically going through this process, I’m happy to have the upgrade done. I have strong braking power and added safety.

I first attempted to also install a City Racer booster but it just would not fit without major firewall modifications to re index both the mounting holes for the brake master and clutch master cylinder towards the driver side.

View attachment 4009015

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View attachment 4009018

Everything is so clean...!

 

[MatthewMcD]

I had planned on using topside marine paint. It’s formulated for fiberglass (and can be applied with a roller and brush using the roll and tip method).

I used Topside. Easy to apply and dries fast so anything, like bugs, that stop by can be removed between coats.

 

[MatthewMcD]

This was one of my favorite winter projects.

Not sure about your application, but there shouldn’t be any need to flare the fuel lines.

You’ll use an 5/16” brass ferrule (“olive”) and tube nut to create a good fit at the carburetor, and a small piece of rubber to the fuel pump.

I’ve had really good luck with a cheap harbor freight tubing bender.

+1 for the HF tubing bender. I used it to replace my hard line when I installed my carb from @65swb45. Olives on both ends. It's worth the extra expense to get a tubing straightener so you start out with straight tube. I did that for the 5/16ths but didn't for the 3mm. You can tell the difference. I used this one: Tubing Straightener5/16in Tube Steel - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9QWQC3D?&linkCode=sl1&tag=gunsdogsandfo-20&linkId=0da958adc7588b1b76fc96565979351c&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

 

[knuckle47]

Matthew is exactly correct…that tubing straightener does a miraculous job…straight as an arrow. The larger 3/8” clamps to a vise and is a bit more cumbersome but does a great job also. Brake lines, unless very complex spirals, can be done by hand almost.

That bead tool is a beauty but that would have cost me around $65 per bead. But again, a very good tool if you’re using it more frequently. I bought the SST for the knuckle rebuild…it’s brand new $250 and never used it… so, the compression fitting was my compromise.

 

[Chilkoot]

Thanks for the tips with those tools. I might give this beading tool a try to save a few $$$.

 

[Chuckha62]

I hotwired mine today

I was heading home from work, planning on continuing a house project my wife and I spent the weekend working on, when about 4 miles from home I lost all power. No dash, no accessories, nothing. If my lights were working, it was too bright to tell. After making sure everything was connected, no fuses were blown, fusible link was fine, I tested the hazards and they were working. Seemed the issue was the ignition switch.

Luckily, I had some wire in the tool box under the DS seat, so I made a jumper for the always hot and switched wires, and a separate jumper to get it started. Once I got it home and on the bench it seemed to be fine.

View attachment 4010486


View attachment 4010487

On my '66, it wasn't the switch, but the connection to the switch. The early switches were eyelet terminations to a threaded post. If loose, they will do exactly what you experienced.

 

[osamenor]

Matt, was the boat paint just a matter of convenience, or do you recommend it for a particular reason?

Hi Mark!

Both. I have it on hand, and it is designed to go on fiberglass.

 

[nabbasi]

On my '66, it wasn't the switch, but the connection to the switch. The early switches were eyelet terminations to a threaded post. If loose, they will do exactly what you experienced.

I have a few of those on this '67 (headlight switch and floor dimmer), but this one came with a cheap ignition switch I subsequently switched out for a toyota dash mounted switch. I'm still not sure what the issue was, but wires were fine, connections were fine, and just the ignition switch seemed inoperable. Since it was fine on the bench, I reinstalled and drove 30+ miles today without issue.

 

[coondawg]

Rebuilt drivetrain between tranny and rear diff. New speedo driven gear, new TC aft housing with double seal, new e-brake, new fill and drain plugs (thanks, Georg), new speedi-sleeve on e-brake drum, replaced all hardware and aligned the driveshaft … of course, new lube for all.

I’ll admit, I’m getting a little old to be climbing under vehicles and wrestling big parts.

 

[RevISK]

Rebuilt drivetrain between tranny and rear diff. New speedo driven gear, new TC aft housing with double seal, new e-brake, new fill and drain plugs (thanks, Georg), new speedi-sleeve on e-brake drum, replaced all hardware and aligned the driveshaft … of course, new lube for all.

I’ll admit, I’m getting a little old to be climbing under vehicles and wrestling big parts.

I just basically did all of that. Good times.

 

[mattressking]

+1 for the HF tubing bender. I used it to replace my hard line when I installed my carb from @65swb45. Olives on both ends. It's worth the extra expense to get a tubing straightener so you start out with straight tube. I did that for the 5/16ths but didn't for the 3mm. You can tell the difference. I used this one: Tubing Straightener5/16in Tube Steel - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9QWQC3D?&linkCode=sl1&tag=gunsdogsandfo-20&linkId=0da958adc7588b1b76fc96565979351c&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

View attachment 4010678

I like the deviation to vac hardline - neat little change. Looks good

 

[Pighead]

Found what I suspicioned to be a coolant leak up top at the front of the block, slipped a 14mm deep socket on a short extension over the bolt holding one side of the water outlet to the block and gave it a couple righty tighty rotations before I felt resistance, So, probably hand tight before I put the socket on it. That probably explains the leak. Once again silently praised the foresight of the designers who made it so easy to put a socket on that bolt.

 

[imyahucklbrry]

Wife wanted French toast for her birthday breakfast this am and I realized that not all ingredients were on hand so off I go…. Have a fear I’m tip-toeing precariously on the edge of owning a ‘grocery-getter’ - Time for a fishing trip to set things right!