What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

[pb4ugo]

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Worked on my rear brakes yesterday before the eclipse. Trying to figure out the low pedal. I guess ill tear them apart again and adjust more. 3 pumps and then great pedal. No air in the system. Planning a rear bar on the roll bar for the family bikini top, I just needed to put it on for now and get some measurements.

But quick poser pic with the trailer as I needed to air the tent out before an upcoming trip. Wish I could take the 40 that weekend as It’s local. Maybe.

Pup had to get in on the pics.

View attachment 3602715

View attachment 3602716

You likely still have air in the system if you have to pump up the pedal.

 

[clrussell]

I made the mistake of not adjusting the brake pads all the way out to the point the wheel wont move before I bled them. Once I adjusted the pads all the way out so the wheels would not move, it made all the difference to me. I think if you dont do this you cant get all the air out of the cylinders. Once they bled correctly I just adjusted them again with the break spoon so the pads rub ever so slightly. I waisted so much brake fluid before I came to this realization. They were great after that until my engine swap when I cut a line. I will be doing it again today maybe.

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You likely still have air in the system if you have to pump up the pedal.

I’ll do this and see what happens. I’ve never had an issue with drum brakes, but never had dual wheel cylinders

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I’ll do this and see what happens. I’ve never had an issue with drum brakes, but never had dual wheel cylinders

I swear I was in the same boat. I went through a gallon of brake fluid trying to bleed it. I have no desire to go to discs in the front as the drums stop pretty good.

 

[clrussell]

I swear I was in the same boat. I went through a gallon of brake fluid trying to bleed it. I have no desire to go to discs in the front as the drums stop pretty good.

Yup sounds the same. My 9 year old was getting tired of pumping the pedal

 

[pb4ugo]

They're are many threads on this subject and the directions @Roastchestnuts describes seems to resolve the problem over and over. I no longer have this problem, cause I went to 4 wheel discs a long long time ago.

 

[clrussell]

They're are many threads on this subject and the directions @Roastchestnuts describes seems to resolve the problem over and over. I no longer have this problem, cause I went to 4 wheel discs a long long time ago.

I searched some yesterday but didn’t find that methodology. I’ll definitely give it a go.

I highly considered 4 wheel disc but decided not to yet.

Also running an 80 series non abs master with a willwood proportioning valve

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Custom seat frame and sliders in process.

Jason
TT

 

[numby]

Worked on my rear brakes yesterday before the eclipse.

There was an eclipse?

I was busy all afternoon drilling out spot welds on my original oil pan to see if I wanted to repair or send to the scrapyard.

Yeesh.

 

[RevISK]

There was an eclipse?

I was busy all afternoon drilling out spot welds on my original oil pan to see if I wanted to repair or send to the scrapyard.

View attachment 3603069

View attachment 3603070

Yeesh.

That looks salvageable, yeah?

 

[knuckle47]

Thank you Kraig….got these in the mail… one for each. A tach for the 40 and 45. I opted for the 4,000 rpm decal for the gauges

Home

teqtach.com

. EDIT: These mounts should last 300 years…they are solid

 

[fj40fillet]

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You likely still have air in the system if you have to pump up the pedal.

The Harbor Freight pneumatic air bleed kit works great if you have an air compressor. You can bleed them by yourself and it is one and done.

 

[fj40fillet]

Thank you Kraig….got these in the mail… one for each. A tach for the 40 and 45. I opted for the 4,000 rpm decal for the gauges

Home

teqtach.com

. EDIT: These mounts should last 300 years…they are solid

View attachment 3603190

Do you need an OEM toyota tach for those mounts or any generic? I'd like to add one to my 40 too.

 

[fj40fillet]

Changed out my wasted tie rod end to my steering arm link. PO must have bastardized the tie rods during the power steering conversion. The larger diameter double holed new end that I would have been able to mount my new steering stabilizer too is too fat to screw into the tie rod end. Now I have to make a steering mount bracket for the 7/8" diameter rod. The rod is so small I can't even find a clamp on stabilizer mount small enough to fit it. They are all 1 1/2" and larger diameter.

 

[igotta40]

87901-55011 is the part number for the convex mirror that goes with those arms. If you’re into that sorta thing.

Ordered today. I’m returning the generic ones ( they do look really good, though)

 

[knuckle47]

Do you need an OEM toyota tach for those mounts or any generic? I'd like to add one to my 40 too.

Kraig got to me about this when I ordered them and he said this Autometer is the once that fits best… a 5k version with the 4k decal
https://www.autometer.com/gauges/z-series.html?gauge_gauge=154170

https://www.autometer.com/2-tach-5-000-rpm-in-dash-z-series.html

 

[numby]

That looks salvageable, yeah?

I think so. The pan is much worse than the skid plate. The patch would need to sit just a half inch inboard of the spot welds and pretty much cover the entire rusty colored zone to be considered a good repair.

I can't take credit for approaching this. I'd never seen a hole saw spot weld bit - just the forstner style. Removing the skid plate came up in a conversation with a local mechanic and he told me about the other bits. The Harbor Freight version cuts just shy of completely through but you can pop the plate off with pry bar.

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

Thank you Kraig….got these in the mail… one for each. A tach for the 40 and 45. I opted for the 4,000 rpm decal for the gauges

Home

teqtach.com

. EDIT: These mounts should last 300 years…they are solid

View attachment 3603190

Looks great, congrats!

Can't see, do they have (the small round piece of) glass too?

 

[RevISK]

I think so. The pan is much worse than the skid plate. The patch would need to sit just a half inch inboard of the spot welds and pretty much cover the entire rusty colored zone to be considered a good repair.

I can't take credit for approaching this. I'd never seen a hole saw spot weld bit - just the forstner style. Removing the skid plate came up in a conversation with a local mechanic and he told me about the other bits. The Harbor Freight version cuts just shy of completely through but you can pop the plate off with pry bar.

I wonder if a patch is really needed or wise on the pan? If it’s not rusted all the way through , I’d try wire wheeling it clean(ish) and use Ospho or something to neutralize the rust and hit it with a filler primer or a skim coat of JB weld. Since you’ll have to weld the plate back you’ll need a coat of weld through primer around the spot welds. Forgive me if you know all this, I’m just thinking out loud.

The spot weld bits are great, the ones from harbor freight get dull really fast though, unsurprisingly.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I drove my Fj40 for the first time since late December early January. albeit only 10 feet but It moved under its own power after a engine swap back to a 2f from a SBC. I still need to button up a few things but I am excited to say the end of the swap project is near.

 

[RevISK]

I drove my Fj40 for the first time since late December early January. albeit only 10 feet but It moved under its own power after an engine swap back to a 2f from a SBC. I still need to button up a few things but I am excited to say the end of the swap project is near.

Amazing! I so applaud your efforts.