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My shaft has a ton of play. I’ve got a pretty bad vacuum leak, putting my thumb over the end of the shaft makes a noticeable improvement. I am of similar thinking that a cast iron base should be pretty tough and the carb was in pretty good shape overall but this cruiser seems to have a hard life of stories hidden in it.My carb drools gasoline when at rest. It flows thru the intake manifold micro crack, and thru threads on the BTB / Man-A-Fre products plate that is under it. Gasoline can get thru most anything, not hermetically sealed, but, for all realistic purposes, I'd not worry about it. Carbs that have big issues with throttle slop are usually aluminum castings. My suspicion is in the airhorn where the idle cut solenoid is has a siphon effect. I have like three solenoids, two have different diameters, and four sets of O-Rings for it, and at least two O-rings are different in how they measure. I eventually bought a new OEM carb, still drools when the conditions are right, makes the header smell when I start-up. I need a proper repair on the manifold so the problem is out of sight, out of mind.
The identification of a vac leak at the throttle shaft will be a distinctive vertical line on the interior of the throttle body, but, the only ones that I'd imagine doing that would be the clone aluminum ones, as the cast iron ones are pretty tough, although I'm sure that there could be exceptions.
I have not done a toyota one but I have redone a few carbs. Typically you can just replace the shaft since most all of the wear is in the shaft not the body. The shaft itself would be something easy enough to make if you have a small mill or even a drill with an x/y table and a slitting saw plus whatever tap the screws are. If you have to drill and bush then getting that right is a bit more work.I believe so. Tried finding info on it but no specific mention of how or what bushings that I could find.
I'm not a wiring guru, but I know one from this site, and that is Mr. @Coolerman. There is a White wire running to your Ammeter. One of my POs ran that wire straight to the starter, which worked, but the correct setup is: that white wire connects to the fusible link, which connects to the positive battery terminal. Here is something you need: Coolerman Schematics. And then the main page too: Coolerman Main Page. I was able to purchase a fusible link plus a plethora of other goodies from him, and it was all top quality! Read his main page, he is a busy guy for sure! Hope that helps! Have a great day!About to start rewiring. Where do I need a fusable link and what specifically do I need?
it’s best to remove the entire harness from truck and lay it out on 4x8 sheet of plywood and go through it circuit by circuit.I'm not a wiring guru, but I know one from this site, and that is Mr. @Coolerman. There is a White wire running to your Ammeter. One of my POs ran that wire straight to the starter, which worked, but the correct setup is: that white wire connects to the fusible link, which connects to the positive battery terminal. Here is something you need: Coolerman Schematics. And then the main page too: Coolerman Main Page. I was able to purchase a fusible link plus a plethora of other goodies from him, and it was all top quality! Read his main page, he is a busy guy for sure! Hope that helps! Have a great day!
Is this in Peoria, AZ? What heater did you add to your Middle East FJ40? What temperature thermostat are you running? Shouldn't be an issue to get the engine to warm up in temperatures above the freezing point. Possible the thermostat is stuck open?
The heater is an Old Air Hurricane.
Thermostat is 90916-03052, the 88-100 degree unit. I highly doubt it is stuck open... its only 5 years old. Also, the trucks coolant temps don't fluctuate like a stuck-open or no-thermostat situation.
I've just attributed it to the fact I have a direct driven fan with no clutch... colder temps and the fact I'm always pulling through fresh air seems to correlate with me having a lukewarm setup.
Cool.Replacing some soft brake lines on a 1976…
Original hoses…. Cool little data ring on the hoss showing they are DOT compliant, manufactured by Toyoda Gosei, and date code of Sept. 1976.
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It’s only about $10 from what I remember when I bought mine about a year or so ago. Also love the color of your cruiser.Ha - I didn't realize that... might have to look that up. Thanks for the info!
Is that up on Glorieta Mesa?I took it to what I call, 'Chivington's Trail.' I went looking at rocks, but, this is the ambush-track where the Confederates lost the West. It really isn't historic, but, it is as close as I can get without wheeling on private land.
I’d rather buy a commercial shop than a residential garage.Cleaned her sleeping quarters. Will be listing house soon, so needed to look more residential than a commercial shopView attachment 2871404
What is the source of the fuel filler hose? Mine is about to turn 48. It doesn’t leak fumes… but it’s due to be replaced.Knocked out a few projects that have been bothering me. Got the center console back from powder coating and installed it. A little glossy but I still like it. Rear heater wouldn’t work. Reached out to @Coolerman who gave me some pointers and it just needed a better ground. Had some gas fumes in the cab when the top was on and decided to replace the rubber tube from the filler neck to the tank since that was the only original piece, @GA Architect found the perfect replacement. Installed the sniper screen with a RAM mount, again another suggestion by @GA Architect. Love just tinkering around now that all the major stuff is done.
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