Did you do a sensor lift here? Looks like you ordered LC rocker panels. Considered doing the same. My '09 is bone stock except for Tundra brakes and 275/60R20 Duratrac RTs.
Good lookin rig
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (19 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Good lookin rig
No sensor lift, but I've been contemplating it. I did get the LC rocker panels. Perfect color match, but different silver color name. Thanks for the comment.
jfz80
Cruisin’
More details on the divider you had made... did you have that cut or repurpose an aluminum panel from something else?
Very nice!!
Test assembly.
The shroud covers the battery on three sides and is held off the battery by two rows of 3/8” foam to allow venting. A thermo switch (40 C on/30 C off) switches the ground side of the avionics blower which is mounted to the front of the Redarc DCDC mount with a bracket I made.
Blower draws 0.3 amps and is powered by the house battery
Really nice setup. Planning to add the Dakota battery as well, but wonder if I really need the thermal conditioning. How did this work out for you? ThanksTest assembly.
The shroud covers the battery on three sides and is held off the battery by two rows of 3/8” foam to allow venting. A thermo switch (40 C on/30 C off) switches the ground side of the avionics blower which is mounted to the front of the Redarc DCDC mount with a bracket I made.
Blower draws 0.3 amps and is powered by the house battery.
It's part of cage kit for a refrigerator drawer system from Air Down Gear Up here in Colorado. That panel was cut incorrectly for a 5th gen 4 runner and had to be remade. I sourced the panel, vertical support, and some hardware directly from ADGU. From there, did my own install of the piece. I will most likely be reaching out to them in the future to get some additional pieces to build a shelf over the fridge. But for now this keeps my stuff from falling on the fridge during trips.
So far so good. All of the data from the couple of weeks of logging shows that the shroud/fan arrangement keeps the battery 30-40 F cooler than underhood air temps. I can't say for sure all of that is necessary but it makes me feel better. Other than that the battery itself is a great performer. So much run time for the fridge and Starlink with 135 amp hours.
That’s awesome. Love your cargo setup.
Finally broke her in. Missed the pic while driving 
Looks great. Welcome to the club. Simple and effective
prwillard2
SILVER Star
My truck keeps making a "clunk" sound almost like the 100 series driveline clunk since I had my accident and they put in a new transmission.
Today I pulled off all my skids from @turbo8 and greased my driveshaft with some NGLI2.
Hoping this solves the problem. I only hear the clunk when braking hard and then during takeoff.
Today I pulled off all my skids from @turbo8 and greased my driveshaft with some NGLI2.
Hoping this solves the problem. I only hear the clunk when braking hard and then during takeoff.
I had a custom made air compressor installed under the bonnet recently. It uses a second hand BMW OEM air-suspension unit. These are completely bulletproof, pump to 10 bar max (the sensor cuts the power by 8 bars). A small air tank is installed just for the sensor to work. It means I can now easily air down and up on the go 
A friend who did this install uses them in all his builds and he makes off-road campers of any size (Land Rover with BMW M57 diesel, Man truck, Nissan Patrol, Merc van, etc. - www.gerrok.eu)
A friend who did this install uses them in all his builds and he makes off-road campers of any size (Land Rover with BMW M57 diesel, Man truck, Nissan Patrol, Merc van, etc. - www.gerrok.eu)
Cool. Do you know why kind of output this compressor has? Even a guestimate based on how long it takes to air up your tire?I had a custom made air compressor installed under the bonnet recently. It uses a second hand BMW OEM air-suspension unit. These are completely bulletproof, pump to 10 bar max (the sensor cuts the power by 8 bars). A small air tank is installed just for the sensor to work. It means I can now easily air down and up on the go
A friend who did this install uses them in all his builds and he makes off-road campers of any size (Land Rover with BMW M57 diesel, Man truck, Nissan Patrol, Merc van, etc. - www.gerrok.eu)
View attachment 3642559
View attachment 3642560
I have not tested it extensively, but airing a 33 from 2 bar to 2.5 just took a moment. I will test it this weekend probably, so I'll measure time. In case you needed more output you may just run 2 units in parallel with one air tank and one sensor
Cool,I have not tested it extensively, but airing a 33 from 2 bar to 2.5 just took a moment. I will test it this weekend probably, so I'll measure time. In case you needed more output you may just run 2 units in parallel with one air tank and one sensor
Just to save other people the trouble. Looks like there is a robust grey market for these and new (non oem) pumps are about 100-150 and used OEM ones are about 150 as well. About a million threads and Youtube videos on servicing them, not sure if that's a good thing or not. It seems like it's pretty small which is nice, guess it just depends on the output vs a Viair if it makes sense to modify one/two of these units vs staying with the traditional setups. The full OEM unit also comes with a dryer if that means anything to anyone.
Also the BMW bracket for mounting it to the frame is well suspended. Bonus points for a solution that makes use of that thing.
I can get a used OEM for like 80$ here in EU (after checking/servicing and with a warranty). They are very quiet, the never overheat (in beemers they are mounted in a kind of insulated dish with no air flow to cool them down). Make sure you buy WABCO - the German OEM producer.
Searching for Wabco specifically raises the price quite a bit for USA customers, at least for new ones. Couldn't find much under $400-$500. Used take off parts prices still apply at about $150, that doesn't include any rebuilding/warranty.
Was under the truck poking around and cleaning off some caked on grime and noticed this. Got a little "draggy" in Moab last fall. Gonna have to try to pry that back and POR15 it. Does anyone know if the standard aftermarket engine skid plates (i.e. budbuilt) cover the LCA attachment points, or was this going to happen anyway?
![20240527_094149[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20240527_094149-1-jpg.3642609/ "20240527_094149[1].jpg")
