What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (51 Viewers)

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I'll follow up for sure on how they handle actual road/wheeling use. I think Kreiten has found the plasti dip to be pretty durable. Not perfect - certainly not like powder coating - but not crappy either.
 
I second that - @kreiten wheels his rig what seems like regularly and the "flexidip" has held up. One photo he posted not to long ago had wood shoved in between his tire and wheel so you know he's testing it out properly.
 
I second that - @kreiten wheels his rig what seems like regularly and the "flexidip" has held up. One photo he posted not to long ago had wood shoved in between his tire and wheel so you know he's testing it out properly.

Ya, I saw that & that's helpful. I have sometimes had the impression that many plastic-dip success stories might not be subject to much abuse, so I've been curious.

For example... When I did this to my front wheel in on Valentines day...

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...I guess I'll just try it and see! :)
 
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If it helps, I plasti-dipped my wheels last year before Ouray and they have held up for almost an entire year since. I almost only drive my truck to wheel it--on rocky trails and in snow.

I have re-done one wheel (2nd picture) and it took me only a few minutes (pull off the old stuff, wipe the wheel clean with rubbing alcohol, apply a few coats). It's especially nice because overspray on the tire is a non-issue.

There are definitely scuffs and areas that are scraped, but I personally think it looks pretty cool. Plus, re-dipping is super easy, fast and cheap. More money for the expensive mods!
 
View attachment 1237161 View attachment 1237162 If it helps, I plasti-dipped my wheels last year before Ouray and they have held up for almost an entire year since. I almost only drive my truck to wheel it--on rocky trails and in snow.

I have re-done one wheel (2nd picture) and it took me only a few minutes (pull off the old stuff, wipe the wheel clean with rubbing alcohol, apply a few coats). It's especially nice because overspray on the tire is a non-issue.

There are definitely scuffs and areas that are scraped, but I personally think it looks pretty cool. Plus, re-dipping is super easy, fast and cheap. More money for the expensive mods!

Seems like a zero-risk experiment so why not? Thanks for feedback.
 
@uclafan
I've briefly mentioned this in other threads but I've never done a write up. I recently had to change one strut and I was able to do it without breaking the steering tie rod or UCA ball joint. It was the fastest I've ever changed a strut. I got the idea when I swapped out my LCAs. Here are two pictures with what to loosen. I don't have time to give you the long story but if you remove the two bolts from the bottom of the steering spindle, remove the swaybar bolt from the LCA, Support the steering spindle and brakes, loosen the LCA bolts and allow it to swing out of the way and the struts can go in and out from below.
I've you're doing this as part of a full install and have the change to UCAs then you'll have to break the ball joint but that's not too hard. Breaking the steering is a beeech. (don't hit the brake guard.
Does all this make sense? Ant

(obviously you'll need an alignment immediately)

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@arich, question for you. I took my vehicle to a local shop that works on LC to replace the front struts, and they told me that they had to go into the LC's programming to depressurize the hydraulic suspension system. From everything that I've read on this forum, turning the KDSS valves 3 full turns counterclockwise will sufficiently release the pressure, in order to install the new strut. I was just wondering if I'm misunderstanding what he was talking about in terms of having to go into the vehicle programming in order to change the front struts.

Thanks
 
You do not have to go into the vehicle programming. just open the valves, 3 turns. If they are saying they have to do unnecessary work, I would be leery of having my truck worked on there.
 
You do not have to go into the vehicle programming. just open the valves, 3 turns. If they are saying they have to do unnecessary work, I would be leery of having my truck worked on there.

@TexAZ, thanks, that's what I thought. This is a shop that was recommended by the guys on the 100-series forums, and the shop did have quite a few LC around, although they were series 80 and 100. I will be picking up the truck later today, so we'll see how it goes.
 
Last night I dropped in my National Luna PowerPack and ARB Fridge from my previous ride. Will run the heavy gauge this weekend. Then this afternoon I took the 200 to a window tint place for limo tint in the rear 3/4 and marginal tint up front. Have to decide on a name then will start a build thread.
 
Got this done today.
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Powder coated 2010 Tundra 18" rims.
 
Got the set of 5 for $100.
 
Those look brand new!

Noice!!

:)
 
Bought Fat Amy a companion.
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