What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (6 Viewers)

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@uclafan
I've briefly mentioned this in other threads but I've never done a write up. I recently had to change one strut and I was able to do it without breaking the steering tie rod or UCA ball joint. It was the fastest I've ever changed a strut. I got the idea when I swapped out my LCAs. Here are two pictures with what to loosen. I don't have time to give you the long story but if you remove the two bolts from the bottom of the steering spindle, remove the swaybar bolt from the LCA, Support the steering spindle and brakes, loosen the LCA bolts and allow it to swing out of the way and the struts can go in and out from below.
I've you're doing this as part of a full install and have the change to UCAs then you'll have to break the ball joint but that's not too hard. Breaking the steering is a beeech. (don't hit the brake guard.
Does all this make sense? Ant

(obviously you'll need an alignment immediately)

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Ill try and get pics and write up when I install my spacers. No need to fully remove the strut for that
 
@uclafan
I've briefly mentioned this in other threads but I've never done a write up. I recently had to change one strut and I was able to do it without breaking the steering tie rod or UCA ball joint. It was the fastest I've ever changed a strut. I got the idea when I swapped out my LCAs. Here are two pictures with what to loosen. I don't have time to give you the long story but if you remove the two bolts from the bottom of the steering spindle, remove the swaybar bolt from the LCA, Support the steering spindle and brakes, loosen the LCA bolts and allow it to swing out of the way and the struts can go in and out from below.
I've you're doing this as part of a full install and have the change to UCAs then you'll have to break the ball joint but that's not too hard. Breaking the steering is a beeech. (don't hit the brake guard.
Does all this make sense? Ant

(obviously you'll need an alignment immediately)

View attachment 1233478

View attachment 1233479

@arich, thanks for the suggestion, and the confirmation that the tie rod is a PITA to deal with. I would give this a try, but recognizing the fact that even if I was successful in getting the strut off, I would have to take the strut assembly and have the shop take the top hat off the old assembly and install the new one, then I would have to reinstall this, and then I will still have to take the vehicle in to get a front end alignment, I figured that I would just find a reputable shop and have them do everything at one shot. So it sounds like you've had a similar story in trying to get your tie rod off as well? BTW, I do have the SPC UCA installed, and I went a few weeks before I was able to take the LC to my trusted mechanic. He showed me how much the tires had worn because of the alignment being out of adjustment; now I know why everyone stress the importance of getting an alignment as soon as possible. It's not a huge loss as these were Bridgestone Dueler HLs, which I was going to change out when I install the RW wheels and BFG KO2s.
 
Great finishing touch.

So what's next on your build list?

Sliders, and roof rack.

After that, probably a locker in the rear. Then a few odds and ends, and she'll be done. I don't know what I'm going to do with myself after that. Maybe buy another fj40
 
Sliders, and roof rack.

After that, probably a locker in the rear. Then a few odds and ends, and she'll be done. I don't know what I'm going to do with myself after that. Maybe buy another fj40
Or have another kid
 
This is America; I can do BOTH!
 
@MScruiser if you're winching at odd angles will the rope clear the bumper? I had that issue when I switched from a roller to hawse fairlead and had to make some spacers to try to get fairlead flush with the bumper, can't seem to tell from your pics
 
@MScruiser if you're winching at odd angles will the rope clear the bumper? I had that issue when I switched from a roller to hawse fairlead and had to make some spacers to try to get fairlead flush with the bumper, can't seem to tell from your pics

The Slee fairlead is pretty thick (even more thick than I originally thought), so it helps push out a bit further. @Willy beamin texted me and reminded me that you had to make spacers to get yours to work. When I bought my fairlead, I went ahead and ordered some black UHMW spacers thinking id need them. But now, I'm not so sure I will.
 
Decided to paint my calipers orange. Pretty happy with it!
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Finally got the front and rear ARB bumpers installed. Big kudos to Kurt and the crew at Cruiser Outfitters for their support during the install.
 
Haggis, is that the minimal ARB rear bumper that Kurt mentions in his build thread?
 
I do remember a post and photos Kurt mentioned. That got my attention. I don't want/need a swing-out rear bumper. This alternative gives me decent protection and departure angles. I called Kurt and he shipped it out in 4 days, cannot recommend them enough.
 
Sun painted a cool shadow of Slee's laser-cut logo...hinting at what I added this week... ;)

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In a 4000 mile road trip with the wife that included Nevada, Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, Texas and Colorado...I had the chance to stop at Slee for some rock protection. Absolutely love Slee's S-T-O-U-T products. Sadly, we had so far to travel that wheeling wasn't really on the schedule...but had a great trip visiting relatives anyway...














Here's a wider shot:

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Also added skids while at Slee on Friday...

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**And...

**Stay tuned for some PHOTOS of progress on Slee's rear 200 bumper (!!)... ;)

Markuson
 
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Sun painted a cool shadow of Slee's laser-cut logo... ;)


**Stay tuned for some PHOTOS of progress on Slee's rear 200 bumper (!!)... ;)

Markuson

Waiting in eager anticipation!!!
 
Those Slee sliders are next up on my to do list.
 
I bought a 2013 last week. 62k miles, clean inside and out. Love it! Huge difference in ride and comfort from the '98 I owned about 7 years ago. The bfg's went on immediately- I am a big believer in these tires and have owned them on all my vehicles. This is my first set with the new version of the all terrains... looks like a mud tire from the side. I was tempted to get the white letters facing out but no regrets. I removed the front mud flaps and plan on taking a dremel+sander to the rear flaps this afternoon. I don't want a huge gap in the wheel well that removing the entire rear flap creates. This forum has been a great learning tool.

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What tire size did you go with?
 
What tire size did you go with?

Just in case you were referring to my photo... My BFG's are 285/70/17's, which fit fine with or without a lift on both LC and LX.

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Plasti - dipped one wheel today. I'm going to test it for a couple days before doing the other wheels. I wanted something other than black.

My bfg's are 275/70/18.

I bet I'll want to go slightly bigger once my dang kdss valves get unstuck and the ironman fcp lift goes on. We'll see though.

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Plasti - dipped one wheel today. I'm going to test it for a couple days before doing the other wheels. I wanted something other than black.

My bfg's are 275/70/18.

I bet I'll want to go slightly bigger once my dang kdss valves get unstuck and the ironman fcp lift goes on. We'll see though.

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I've been curious about plastic-dipping for a while now, but always had the impression that it would end up looking pretty shabby due to scraping off in brush, bushes, twigs, or rocks, etc. If you go wheeling in any areas like that, I'd love to see a follow-up post showing how it holds up. I know that you can remove it, but I wouldn't want to have to keep re-doing often (call me lazy)...
 

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