What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (16 Viewers)

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Can you give a link? I need to do this for my 2008 before my big trip in two weeks. Is there one or two tees that need to be replaced?

Here’s the link to the thread has all the part number from amazon, I do however recommend using the clamp that you screw to tighten I woke up this morning to a bottle of coolant in my driveway looked like the stock clamps aren’t good enough

 
Oil analysis for the 1st 2,600 miles on the factory fill 0W20. I put 5W30 M1 EP in it and plan to run that for the life of the vehicle. Will likely do next oil change at 7,500 miles then every 7,500 miles after that. This is primarily a highway Cruiser.

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It's a zero-banana job. Easiest install ever. The original harness just unclips directly above the gas pedal, and the Pedal Commander connects between the two. Took literally 45 seconds to do.
I just installed one tonight. Truly amazed that it makes such a difference. It should drive this way from the factory.
 
Think I need a new bumper... and a few other things...

Kudos on you having a dash cam. I have a dash cam on all four sides of our cruiser and crv. The other driver did not use the turn signal. Depending on the law in Vegas regarding crossing solid lines on a bike lane, it's possible him crossing two solid white lanes to turn right may be another violation. Be sure your insurance carrier sees the video. If it's an at-fault state, you may need to push with your insurance carrier to have 0% liability.
 
Did you have issues with the install? Heard there were some questions on how to seal it...
Nah you just have to take your time and get a good bead down for each spacer. I did go a little heavy on the permatex #2 and have a little mess of smears on the roof I need to clean up because of that.

This rack is modular and quite straight forward. People with issues seemed to either have received the wrong parts/hardware, lost mounting plates on the roof during removal or assembled it on the ground and tried install. If you watch their 100 series install video, I followed that process. Sides rails first, then cross members, then wind fairing.

Tips (Mine is a 2013) -

Take your time with factory rack removal. Each pillar will have 2 bolts, loosen the 2 bolts equally until removed (5 turns on one then 5 on the other). There are 4 pillars on each side - 16 total bolts that go in the roof. Takes longer than you think but I didnt use any power tools because I wanted to be gentle.

Follow 100 series instructions but use permatex #2 instead of silicone.

Assemble all bolts and screws with their matching locking washers and washers up front before installation.

Torquing takes forever. Each crossmember pulls the rack in more and getting in squared and torqued down takes forever. Be patient and have at least 2 beers ready.
 
Preventive maintenance on the new-to-me (last Friday) '13 LC.

FIrst, lubed the upper control arms per Slee for the OME BP51s that PO installed. Was told to do this twice a year. Seemed bone dry as it took a lot of handle squeezes to load 'em up.

Next, lubed the all six points on the front & back drive shaft. Two questions here - 1) anyone know an easier way to rotate the fittings so that the grease gun can get to? Tried neutral with parking brake on but couldn't rotate front or back shaft by hand. Had to move the LC forward a bit. 2) Is there an easier way to get the grease gun to release from the fitting? Got 'em all off but was afraid I was going to break a couple.

Lastly, checked the KDSS valves. My LC has been a CO vehicle its whole life, but you can see the rust...not that bad though. Was able to unscrew each valve a couple turns after PB blasting them. Dremeled off the rust, worked in some anti-seize and lathered it all up with marine grease. Before and after pics below.

Got all y'all from this forum to thank for the tips to do all this. Now I know it was done right and when.

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I need to do this, do they all take the same gear oil? how many quarts needed for all 3? any friction modifiers required? Thanks!

Fresh oil in front diff, rear diff, and T case. Always a feeling of relief when the old comes out looking good.
 
I need to do this, do they all take the same gear oil? how many quarts needed for all 3? any friction modifiers required? Thanks!

Yes, they are all the same. You'll need right under 8 qts for everything. No modifiers.
 
Preventive maintenance on the new-to-me (last Friday) '13 LC.

FIrst, lubed the upper control arms per Slee for the OME BP51s that PO installed. Was told to do this twice a year. Seemed bone dry as it took a lot of handle squeezes to load 'em up.

Next, lubed the all six points on the front & back drive shaft. Two questions here - 1) anyone know an easier way to rotate the fittings so that the grease gun can get to? Tried neutral with parking brake on but couldn't rotate front or back shaft by hand. Had to move the LC forward a bit. 2

If you have alternating tires on a ramp you can jack the side that's in the ground and rotate that tire by hand and driveshaft will turn as well. There's a thread from @bloc that has pictures to help explain better. Having trouble finding it right now..
 
If you have alternating tires on a ramp you can jack the side that's in the ground and rotate that tire by hand and driveshaft will turn as well. There's a thread from @bloc that has pictures to help explain better. Having trouble finding it right now..
The user notification thing on this site works great!

Make sure tires on the ground are chocked and transmission is in Neutral, and yes you can spin the free tire with a little resistance from the limited-slip center diff. Details here:

 

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