bloc
SILVER Star
I've seen a few threads asking for advice on getting the front driveline lubed, and even a couple asking whether there are even zerks up there. Had to do my drivelines recently and figured I'd take some pictures of what I do.
First off.. the equipment. No fancy grease gun or nozzle here. Just a standard 90 degree straight gun and tip. If the tip were much bigger we'd have problems, but this seems to just work for my rig.
Now, how I go about getting the shaft lined up perfectly. There is a VERY narrow range of orientation that allows access to the zerks. Moving the truck back and forth to accomplish this is.. very difficult. And unfortunately I don't have a 2-post car lift (dream garage stuff right there).
So.. I do the following.
Put the truck on ramps on alternating corners on flat ground (could go without this step, but it gives more room to work under the truck)
Chock behind the rear wheel on the ground
Parking brake set
Transmission in Neutral
Using a jack that will grip the bottom of the arm, put it as far out as possible without hitting the tire and slightly jack the front wheel off the ground until the tire just clears.
With this wheel off the ground and the transmission in neutral, and the center diff not directly coupling the front driveline to the rear, the front tire and front driveline are allowed to spin. This lets you easily and quickly make fine adjustments to get the driveline exactly where you need it.
If you jack from the arm, it is very important that you use a floor jack that has a good edge on it to grip the bottom of the arm. There are some welds for the sway-bar bracket that provide a purchase point. It will not hurt it. But bottle type jacks with a round top (like the OEM jack) won't stay put.
You could jack from the frame.. but with the suspension sag it'll have to go way up, and require jack stands since it can move so much with you under it.
Note that this works very well for the rear shaft too, only you'll have to chock the front wheel on the ground (at least) and disengage the parking brake. I then jack under the lower arm bracket on the axle.
Remove your plastic under-engine cover, and the transmission skid, and proceed
First off.. the equipment. No fancy grease gun or nozzle here. Just a standard 90 degree straight gun and tip. If the tip were much bigger we'd have problems, but this seems to just work for my rig.
Now, how I go about getting the shaft lined up perfectly. There is a VERY narrow range of orientation that allows access to the zerks. Moving the truck back and forth to accomplish this is.. very difficult. And unfortunately I don't have a 2-post car lift (dream garage stuff right there).
So.. I do the following.
Put the truck on ramps on alternating corners on flat ground (could go without this step, but it gives more room to work under the truck)
Chock behind the rear wheel on the ground
Parking brake set
Transmission in Neutral
Using a jack that will grip the bottom of the arm, put it as far out as possible without hitting the tire and slightly jack the front wheel off the ground until the tire just clears.
With this wheel off the ground and the transmission in neutral, and the center diff not directly coupling the front driveline to the rear, the front tire and front driveline are allowed to spin. This lets you easily and quickly make fine adjustments to get the driveline exactly where you need it.
If you jack from the arm, it is very important that you use a floor jack that has a good edge on it to grip the bottom of the arm. There are some welds for the sway-bar bracket that provide a purchase point. It will not hurt it. But bottle type jacks with a round top (like the OEM jack) won't stay put.
You could jack from the frame.. but with the suspension sag it'll have to go way up, and require jack stands since it can move so much with you under it.
Note that this works very well for the rear shaft too, only you'll have to chock the front wheel on the ground (at least) and disengage the parking brake. I then jack under the lower arm bracket on the axle.
Remove your plastic under-engine cover, and the transmission skid, and proceed
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