What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (36 Viewers)

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Why not just source some ML panels?
I tried that, illusion audio C3 midrange is hefty and they will receive every single watt that they handle via Helix Ultimate so they need to be as "nailed down" as I can get them. DuraGlass treated mdf foundation via fiberglass is something I wanted to try before I made repairs to the door itself. When I was seating the rings down, right side was adjusted a few degrees to get it as close to on-axis as possible without making it look obvious. Somewhat pointless audio geek stuff.
 
Replaced the tailgate carpet with a Mountain Hatch top.
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Added the Lexus wireless door lock buzzer to my LC. I followed the instructions here:

Thread 'Keyless Entry chirp added to 98' 100- EZ Mod'
Keyless Entry chirp added to 98' 100- EZ Mod - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/keyless-entry-chirp-added-to-98-100-ez-mod.44462/
I bought a kit of terminal connectors to fit into the wire harness that connects to the security box but they were all too big. Ended up de-pinning and old stereo connector that I had in the junk pile and it fit perfectly ($0) 😩

I have one extra buzzer that I’ll put in the classifieds if anyone is looking for one.

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Finally got my rebuilt door lock actuator in and installed to discover they'd put the wrong rod for the lock actuator on, so I pulled the unit, swapped on my old rod and got everything reinstalled. Way more of a pain than it should have been, but it's done!

Also this week I got my coastal offroad rear bumper primed and sanded, and added some paintable rubberized undercoating on the bottom side and the surfaces that get stuff from the rear tire kicked up. Hopefully the grey color match paint I ordered shows up soon so I can get it sprayed.
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Do you have a part number I couldn't find them on Toyota partsca or rock auto. Thanks

You also need to get the brackets for them
 
Rebooted the inner cv boots (original boots with deep cracks ready to let go) and new boots and grease for the ball joints. Started on the timing belt and found my radiator was leaking at the upper seam, so ordered a new Denso.

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Removed my Yellow Box speedo calibrator as it started acting up after 10 years of daily use, so my speedo is now off a bit. Ordered a replacement from Lutz Auto, so hopefully soon I'll be back to normal.
 
Removed my Yellow Box speedo calibrator as it started acting up after 10 years of daily use, so my speedo is now off a bit. Ordered a replacement from Lutz Auto, so hopefully soon I'll be back to normal.

Is that what you’ve ordered? I just put bigger tires and my speedometer is off. Looking at what options I have to bring it back to spec.
 
A couple little things today..
New MAF sensor plug housing, mine was cracked since I got it 5-6 yrs ago, never gave me issues but it bother me:

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New air filter, old one had several years of dust in it, in FL they last long so didn’t rush it.
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New power steering reservoir from a GTO, and Redline D4 atf.. my new favorite!!
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Smooooth..

Can it be that this coming Sunday my wife will leave me alone for a few hours to install my new brake booster assembly?
 

Is that what you’ve ordered? I just put bigger tires and my speedometer is off. Looking at what options I have to bring it back to spec.
Yep. Yellow Box is good, but Lutz looks like a cleaner design, has had a lot of approval here on 'mud, and based on posts, is a bit more refined. I'll update here after install.
 
Hey legends

I'm trying to replace my drivers side window switches. (2004 UZJ100r)

My switches just have one connector. Yet everything I'm finding under $100 seems to have two connectors on the switch panel. I even ordered one of eBay that showed a single connector in the pic, but the one that turned up had..... 2 connectors.

I've got this part number which allows me to find a Genuine switch (at huge cost - $600 + AUD)

Can someone help me out, finding an aftermarket switch set with single connector? I have the part code 84820-60120 which I believe is the right code (right side drivers window switches). If anyone can confirm I have the part code right at least I know I'm looking for the right thing? I did find one at a local scrappy. It was $200 but showed the right connector. Went to buy it last night and I missed out, someone else had bought it. Grr...


Oh ongoing intermittent battery light. Looking like I'll be getting a new alternator this week. Then hopefully no more fixing or replacing for a little while as my wife's attention is focusing on the 5k+ I've spent on a "solid LC that will last us years" ooopsie.

Pic included of the beast, at the local tip picking up a boot full of mulch yesterday:) 155,000 miles so she's barely even run in ;)

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Have you checked junkyards in your area? That might be the best solution for a more inexpensive direct replacement option.
 

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