What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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So after a battery light and a few tests I replaced the battery. Alternator passed. But I'm still getting the battery light coming on. After 5km seems to go off and the v go back up.

What should I do? Could the regulator need changing or just go new alt?
 
LCT said:
Not today but got few things done over the last couple of months…

Dissent Extreme Clearance Front Bumper. Sold the badlands and saving for the come up winch.
Baja Designs LP6 lights.
Brand new OEM lights retrofitted with micro D2S projectors and LED high beam. Indicators wired into OEM clear corner lights.
Metal Tech Sliders.
BBS TRD PRO wheels with 295/70R18 Toyo RT Trail tires.
AHC lift.
Aftermarket grill is starting to grow on me but if anyone has an OEM grill that they would like to get rid of, let me know.
Seat Jackers.
Cabin air filter.
Engine air filter.
Oil change with M1 and OEM filter.
OEM Japanese rear wiper.

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does the Badlands not fit?
 
aphex2k said:
So after a battery light and a few tests I replaced the battery. Alternator passed. But I'm still getting the battery light coming on. After 5km seems to go off and the v go back up.

What should I do? Could the regulator need changing or just go new alt?
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What does “Alternator passed” mean?

What is the voltage on the battery with the Cruiser running?
 
aphex2k said:
So after a battery light and a few tests I replaced the battery. Alternator passed. But I'm still getting the battery light coming on. After 5km seems to go off and the v go back up.

What should I do? Could the regulator need changing or just go new alt?
Click to expand...
Mine did the same thing a year ago- it was a loose connection on the positive side in that power block that the battery connects to- don’t know the name of it. The line that comes from the alternator is tightened down on a stud on that block and that was my issue
 
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Trapper50cal said:
How did the baking brake adjustment go? Did you just adjust the clicking star wheel inside the rear drum portion?
Or did you mess with linkage/lever/etc. as well?
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I cleaned/scrubbed the best I could without taking the shoes off, reapplied grease where noted, then adjusted per the FSM. Back off the stops, adjust the shoes with the star wheel, then reset the stops.

I found out I’ll need to go out a few more clicks on each side, but I’ll do this after I tackle the front suspension.
 
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Done with all seats!

Quite a job.
The new nets are the finish touch.

Now to gather stuff to paint the exterior..
Next Sunday is steering fluid flush day.
 
Had a ticking noise today. Being as I just replaced sparks and coils; I got paranoid. So I tore into the LX and found that...they were all snug 😁. I'm thinking exhaust manifold leak, and as I am planning to upgrade to Doug Thorley headers later it's not a big concern. Muffler isn't rusted through, not sure about the tick.

On a side note: when shop does the headers I am contemplating deleting all the cats and running true dual out the side before rear wheel.(Emissions isn't a thing here). Will the CEL code be able to be erased after this, or should I replace cats with high flow ones? Thanks
 
LCT said:
Not today but got few things done over the last couple of months…

Dissent Extreme Clearance Front Bumper. Sold the badlands and saving for the come up winch.
Baja Designs LP6 lights.
Brand new OEM lights retrofitted with micro D2S projectors and LED high beam. Indicators wired into OEM clear corner lights.
Metal Tech Sliders.
BBS TRD PRO wheels with 295/70R18 Toyo RT Trail tires.
AHC lift.
Aftermarket grill is starting to grow on me but if anyone has an OEM grill that they would like to get rid of, let me know.
Seat Jackers.
Cabin air filter.
Engine air filter.
Oil change with M1 and OEM filter.
OEM Japanese rear wiper.

View attachment 3726262
Click to expand...
Oooo! Did you do the retrofitting of those headlights yourself?
 
Made a roadside kit to fit in one of the rear cargo compartments. I pulled some like new Timkens out of the hub when I replaced them with Koyo. Those and the drive flange were in great shape still. So I threw the flange, extra gasket, bearings/races, extra cone washers, and CV clip assortment in a small box and stuffed it in back.
Test fit some homebrew rear pod brackets. Debating on a faring type of mount with a bar across the center and somewhat enclosed.
Also took an old upper lift gate Toyota badge and VHB’d it to my tool chest.
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whitec13 said:
Made a roadside kit to fit in one of the rear cargo compartments. I pulled some like new Timkens out of the hub when I replaced them with Koyo. Those and the drive flange were in great shape still. So I threw the flange, extra gasket, bearings/races, extra cone washers, and CV clip assortment in a small box and stuffed it in back.
Test fit some homebrew rear pod brackets. Debating on a faring type of mount with a bar across the center and somewhat enclosed.
Also took an old upper lift gate Toyota badge and VHB’d it to my tool chest.
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Would you have the tools and grease to disassemble a spindle/bearings and reinstall? Or is the thought you could get it to a local mechanic?
 
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New bumper is crossed off the list.
I need to change my front diff bushing and then I can put on my skids (pictured). 🙃
 
Berkut10r said:
If flocking, I am using soft micro-suede fibers, works out next week then I may make these full time. I can fit up to Morel Little Lotus aka Supremo Picollos, which is one of the largest tweeters on the market, without having to touch the A-Pillars.

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More pics, please!
 
Had a blinking OFF light for the AHC height control. Dynamic height wasn’t working. Did my usual inspection and discovered this.
IMG_5711.jpeg

Replaced it with a new free-spinning washer 6MM x 1.0 nut and another washer the inner side, torqued it to 17ftlb and that solved the problem.
 
plainjanefjc said:
Would you have the tools and grease to disassemble a spindle/bearings and reinstall? Or is the thought you could get it to a local mechanic?
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I carry a socket set everywhere I go along with various other “basic” tools. Outside of the 54mm hub nut, it wouldn’t be so difficult. And honestly, a screw driver, determination, and some time would take care of that if need be. As for grease, I left the bearings grease packed and bagged them into the boxes as such, with that thought in mind. The reality is, it’s highly unlikely I will need them, but if I do - I am prepared. Also prepared if someone else on the trail is in need.
 
so, as usually happens, I decided to DIY rebuilding my passenger door lock actuator (new motor) instead of buying a new or refurbished OEM unit. Ended up breaking the actuator case in two places trying to get it apart. Once I had the motor replaced and the case repaired with epoxy to begin putting everything back together I managed to break the tabs on the white plastic actuator arm where it interfaces with the gears. So now I've still got 5 new lock actuator motors and bought a refurbished OEM piece anyway...

... and managed to get the passenger door closed with the lock engaged and the interior lock cable apparently disconnected. So, that'll be fun. :bang: I thought I was past the "danger" of Friday the 13th, but I apparently got all my "bad luck" saturday and sunday :doh:
 
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