What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (37 Viewers)

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New bumper is crossed off the list.
I need to change my front diff bushing and then I can put on my skids (pictured). 🙃
Good call on the square DD lights - compliments the 100 square headlights nicely. I’d like to see how you setup the accessory fog lights peeking out below the winch fairlead

I’m loving where this build is going
 
Swapped my rear springs to ones with a heavier spring rate (the Eibach HD springs). Was rolling around with a saggy rear end due to the bumper and spare, so finally got my 1" rake back. Used my friend's lift @ his shop. That along with the underhoist stand made life way easier. Plus it's hot outside and my LX doesn't fit in the garage.

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who makes this rear?
 
Mine did the same thing a year ago- it was a loose connection on the positive side in that power block that the battery connects to- don’t know the name of it. The line that comes from the alternator is tightened down on a stud on that block and that was my issue
Appreciate the reply
I had the steering rack replaced maybe 1 or 2 weeks prior to this issue. I guess it's possible a cable or cables have been inadvertently damaged. I'm no expert but it works off and on which to me suggests something loose and while driving it's completing contact then vibrations? Perhaps? I'm just trying to look a the cheaper options rather than $300+fitting for a new alternator I might not need. What I don't want to do is have the alt replaced, drive off and the battery light still goes on and off!
 
Oooo! Did you do the retrofitting of those headlights yourself?
I shipped the headlights out to Lightwerkz Global. If I had to do it again, I would do it myself.
View attachment 3727427
New bumper is crossed off the list.
I need to change my front diff bushing and then I can put on my skids (pictured). 🙃
What winch did you end up going with? Did you have to clock the clutch end to fit it in there?
Also, who makes the bumper? Looks Dissent but i don't see the badging.
Dissent Extreme Clearance Bumper.
 
working on my inner tie rods.

should the rack have any grease on it because this grease was only on one side. Rack is probably only 7 years old
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working on my inner tie rods.

should the rack have any grease on it because this grease was only on one side. Rack is probably only 7 years old
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IIRC, yes, it should have grease. I rebuilt my rack and the side that has the teeth on it got moly grease per the FSM.
 
Good call on the square DD lights - compliments the 100 square headlights nicely. I’d like to see how you setup the accessory fog lights peeking out below the winch fairlead

I’m loving where this build is going
There's cutouts in the bumper that help with fog light placement by design.

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what color is that? PC or rattle can spray?
PC - I went with a 2 stage grey that matches my other stuff, wheels included.

What winch did you end up going with? Did you have to clock the clutch end to fit it in there?
It's the ComeUp 12.5, and yes, just slightly. I used their relocation kit to move the control box - I'll have to open up my hood to turn it on, but it's fine by me, and less cutting/better looks IMO.
 
I did this job on mine a week ago. Easy, once you figure out the adjustment wheel location (slightly left from bottom or @5 of a clock), the direction to tighten (towards to the center of the wheel), and handling both torch and screw driver combination.
Only break shoes adjusted on both sides. Parking break is right around 3 clicks.
To tighten does the wheel turn downwards for either side?
 
I replaced almost all of the coolant hoses last year but missed the coolant reservoir cap and hose assembly so I finally got around to buying a new one. And, a new serpentine belt idler pulley. (Both of these things are stupid expensive, the recent 25% sale made it only slightly more tolerable.) Also, put in a new engine air filter.

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Got a bit of mud on the old girl; dirt road was soggy. Running board delete makes it so much more "offroady" 😅. Planning to do heater tees on Friday if I get a chance although they aren't leaking. And possibly front and rear diff fluids.
Add some OEM front mud flaps. It looks better and keeps the mud of the sides of your truck.
 
Roughly around the next election cycle, I will have the doors ready for upholstery shop. I hate having OCD and having to re-do every tiny thing but it should be ok in the end. I am praying that one more light sanding session and it will be off to the races.

So my toothless fella now looks like me when I get out the AC'd interior into the Florida's goodness. Before the you reach for your bunsen burners, they are in there temporarily.

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Roughly around the next election cycle, I will have the doors ready for upholstery shop. I hate having OCD and having to re-do every tiny thing but it should be ok in the end. I am praying that one more light sanding session and it will be off to the races.

So my toothless fella now looks like me when I get out the AC'd interior into the Florida's goodness. Before the you reach for your bunsen burners, they are in there temporarily.

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Why not just source some ML panels?

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