It comes balanced from Toyota’s supplier and has new Koyo u-joints.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (54 Viewers)
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It comes balanced from Toyota’s supplier and has new Koyo u-joints.
Nice. I thought the u-joints had to be shimmed and balanced as well??
No.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Having a very hard time visualizing how you have this wired—pics might help. But maybe on a thread specific to this mod. You’ll have better results there than on “what’d you do to your rig today?”
Did the red arc isolator instructions recommend fuses in those locations and that amperage?
loeky
SILVER Star
I'd start a thread on this issue instead of talking further here in 'what i did'. I have a REDARC BCDC, but not sure if you're referring to a manual/switch isolator. Take some pictures with details of what you installed to a thread and maybe folks can help. In the meantime, I'd remove positive/negative connections to whatever you installed to islolate [h0h0!] the cause firstly.
I’m in need of that part as well. Good quality? Good price?
2001LC
SILVER Star
I am, a very big proponent of cleaning top of engine before removing the Intake Manifold. Taking the time to clean before, during service to insure no debris falls into intake ports of heads and remove any that does is critical. Unfortunately I've seen all to many 2UZ cylinders, valve and values seat damage from debris failing in.
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What did you use to cover the mounting holes?
Yea, I was looking at getting the zombie green, then recently saw the battleship grey. Having second thoughts
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Got a few overdue projects wrapped up...
After having the Hewitt Tech Gen-II SAIS Bypass Kit sitting on my work bench for the better part of 6 months, I got it installed. It was nerve racking splicing in the the wiring into the engine wiring harness, but everything went together well. Thanks @hewitttech for the great kit with fairly straight forward instructions!
I got around to changing the cabin air filter. The old ones had ~49k and 4.5 years on them.
I also changed out the high idle vacuum lines that come off the valve on the PS pump. They were pretty cracked and dry.
After having the Hewitt Tech Gen-II SAIS Bypass Kit sitting on my work bench for the better part of 6 months, I got it installed. It was nerve racking splicing in the the wiring into the engine wiring harness, but everything went together well. Thanks @hewitttech for the great kit with fairly straight forward instructions!
I got around to changing the cabin air filter. The old ones had ~49k and 4.5 years on them.
I also changed out the high idle vacuum lines that come off the valve on the PS pump. They were pretty cracked and dry.
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Fixing a dent that wouldn’t pull out
Added SLEE main battery upgrade, Alu-Cab tilt fridge slide, Odyssey 31m-pc2150 and installed fridge
Finally got around to adding a switch to my DRL's (Daytime Running Lights). I made up an On/Off switch with pigtails, God only knows how long ago...and its been sitting on my computer desk just begging to be installed.
I finished up some chores around the Ranch a bit early...so figured I'd stuff myself up under the dash and do the surgery needed to splice in the switch wires.
I'm sure its no big deal for you younger/slimmer guys, but I'm 6'-5"...250 lbs and 66 years old. No problem finding the connector and appropriate wire to snip (Red w/Blue stripe). But getting the tiny wire stripped back, the butt connectors in place and crimped in such tight quarters wasn't much fun. I sure as Hell didn't want to withdraw myself until all was done, because getting back there would have been an ordeal.
So.... holding a flashlight in my teeth, reading glasses on, wires strippers in my right hand, crimpers laying on my chest....I went to work.
Finally got it done and the connector plugged back just as I started getting a cramp in my left leg. Kept my fingers crossed that all was right and tested the switch.
Eureka....! We now switchable DRL's. Not entirely sure it was worth it.....but I have it now.
I finished up some chores around the Ranch a bit early...so figured I'd stuff myself up under the dash and do the surgery needed to splice in the switch wires.
I'm sure its no big deal for you younger/slimmer guys, but I'm 6'-5"...250 lbs and 66 years old. No problem finding the connector and appropriate wire to snip (Red w/Blue stripe). But getting the tiny wire stripped back, the butt connectors in place and crimped in such tight quarters wasn't much fun. I sure as Hell didn't want to withdraw myself until all was done, because getting back there would have been an ordeal.
So.... holding a flashlight in my teeth, reading glasses on, wires strippers in my right hand, crimpers laying on my chest....I went to work.
Finally got it done and the connector plugged back just as I started getting a cramp in my left leg. Kept my fingers crossed that all was right and tested the switch.
Eureka....! We now switchable DRL's. Not entirely sure it was worth it.....but I have it now.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Plan to poach deer at night?
Silicon and m6 or m8 (can’t remember which)
how do u like the reef drawer system?
Thanks for the info.
Added a few drawers and a deck for the fridge. Still need to do some shellacking
No, got a freezer full from 'legally' hunting them. And I have deer in the pasture behind my house day and night anyway, thanks.
Yummmm.....
I just don't see the need to always be burning the high beams, regardless the situation. They are a safety feature 'supposedly' but I've observed over the years that folks have learned to ignore (not notice) them. They don't really seem to make your vehicle 'stand out' anymore as people have become accustomed to them. With the exception of it being 'dusk' and some fool not yet turning on their headlights, I'm not convinced they do much anymore. Anyway....I have the choice now of running them on or not.
I just stroked a check on the steering rack and control arms. Local show did everything for $850 so couldn't pass it up. Went with OE Brand new rack, moog control arms and tie rods.
To clarify- on a brand new Toyota drive shaft it already comes set up with the correct shim (snap ring) thickness based on it having a brand new yoke & spiders.
If you are replacing u-joints (with Toyota u-joints) on your existing used driveshaft you would (should) check and/or replace the snap ring. Over time, the yoke wears, especially on lifted rear axles due to the increased working angles. I think some driveshaft shops dont bother to follow this step when replacing u-joints and is the reason some experience driveshaft vibes post new u-joint install.
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