What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (70 Viewers)

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Kid in a candy shop!
Curious if you replace front control arms and drive shafts as part of preventative maintenance?

Drive shaft ujoints for front and rear— yes.

Front upper and lower control arms will most likely be replaced in phase 2. Not due to PM per se, but I prefer to make a new-to-me-truck “mine” in terms of operating systems. That way I’m never second guessing the veracity of the work done on the truck.

I did it using the best parts available.
 
I have the TT diff drop and was thinking about the ASFIR skid... so it won’t work without modifying? Bummer...

@Myfirsttruck no it will work. It’s just the ASFIR supplied spacer is super wimpy. It’s barely 1/2” in diameter. It plus the diff drop puck that @TRAIL TAILOR supplies is sufficiently tall enough, that’s what I have installed now. Sorry for the confusion.

I just wanted a single piece spacer that was more robust, at least 20 mm in diameter if not thicker. Nothing Mcmaster carr can’t fix. So I feel better using it as jack point.
 
Finished installing all the 3 remaining rear control arms and the rear control arm skids from @TRAIL TAILOR. I kept the upper the same length as my stock arms. For the lowers I added 3/8” from the stock to account for my lift. I initially had trouble getting them to line up but jacking up the rear pumpkin and took off the rear tires per @RobRed instructions were super helpful, see here: TLC FAQ. I also installed TT’s rear lower control arm skids. Super easy to install and Jason even included a drill bit!

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I have been using Magnalube GX a NGLI 2 grease for my TT UCAs, drive shaft, and in the rear control arms. It has PTFE, 3% moly, and uses Lithium thickener and comes out grey in color. magnalube | Magnalube-GX
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I use Magnalube G also a NGLI 2 grease for my spindle and wheel bearings. It has PTFE, but no Moly, and uses a Polyurea base and comes in a green color. magnalube | Magnalube-G I buy it direct from the manufacturer, but I think McMaster and even Amazon stocks it.

My pup Sammy approves of all the sweet swag from @TRAIL TAILOR decal, shirt, and patch. Thanks again Jason!
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Ran out of time, so for next weekend: 1) replace the transmission mount with OEM, 2) install TT’s creeper skid, 3) install TT‘s rear shock guards.

Also need to do my sway bar refresh, I got in all new OEM hardware and bushings plus uprated sway bars and polyurethane bushings from SuperPro (front) and TJM (rear). I highly recommend suspensions.com based in CO for any whiteline or superpro items. DirtyParts has been my go to TJM source.
 
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@Myfirsttruck no it will work. It’s just the ASFIR supplied spacer is super wimpy. It’s barely 1/2” in diameter. It plus the diff drop puck that @TRAIL TAILOR supplies is sufficiently tall enough, that’s what I have installed now. Sorry for the confusion.

I just wanted a single piece spacer that was more robust, at least 20 mm in diameter if not thicker. Nothing Mcmaster carr can’t fix. So I feel better using it as jack point.
Could you post here once you find a satisfactory solution?
 
About to change the spark plugs in mine. What's that black piece? Should I have a replacement part on hand for that?
Not sure what year your rig is but that's the PCV valve grommet for '98-'02. Not needed for spark plug replacement; however, it is highly recommended to replace in addition to the PCV valve & hoses since you'll be working right by them. 12204-50020 for the valve itself, 12261-50050 for the hose that clamps onto it. Easy & cheap repair since it's right on of the engine. Could potentially cause a vacuum leak.

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If you do those things, might as well get the 12262-50030 hose for the other side that plugs into the airbox. I also recommend new clamps for all of those hoses (90467-15021). All parts can be had for less than $50

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Finally made my pvc pressurized water system. 4" inch pvc, rustoleum textured black paint, ball valve w/quick connect on one side, and schrader valve and pressure relief valve on the other side at 30lb. I fill on the ball valve side, and set my air compessor to 29lbs and get 6-6.5 minutes of pressurized water. ghetto strapped onto oem roofrack.
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I used leftover foam from radiator job superglued to it to rest on roofrack crossbars and basket of my cheap roof rack.

Went out camping with some friends on a lake in NC. Really taking the factory roof rack to the max with 270 degree awning on one side, 2 packed plano boxes, massive tent, chairs, full water system. Its done just fine. 3rd time using the awning and this I put solar strings lights around the edges, fantastic.
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The wall was a big plus for shade and wind on the awning, might get another panel. In the end we were unable to leave the campsite because sadly the fuel pump died. Brought it to my buddies shop and luckily already knew about the access panel and didnt mess with dropping the tank. Battery frother ftw and the ultimate Cordadito glamping experience.

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After getting home from NC camping trip decided to clean everything up and go out again but with just my boys. Found an incredible spot an hour and a half from our house in miles of pretty fun trails. Ungodly how cold this May has been, got like 40 overnight. I was on furlough from work so this was the first time ever getting out on a weekday trip, didnt see a single soul the whole time....but weirdly enough just when we got to the site suddenly got 4 bars and 3G which was nice.
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Just amazing! I love how you are using the roof rack and the whole truck to have fun! Which awning is this? Sorry if you have already posted about it before.
 
Its the Overlandpros 270 degree awning, the 2500mm size. When we all go out its 3 car seats in 2nd row, 2 adults up front, and a lot of gear, so it tends to be very full. Never had an issue with the factory roof rack loaded up, even on trails.
 
That's quite a collection you carry! Enquiring minds want to know what tool did you choose?
Too many years of Land Rover ownership combined with no garage to store tools in results in me carrying probably way too much, yes. But keeping so much in the 100 makes work on it and the Volvo so much easier than it would be with 100 “I need a tool” visits to the house....

got this, and so far I like it a LOT. I checked out some overland-ey bags but this looked like a better fit for me.

Amazon product ASIN B000EDTSZG
 
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Finally finished up my Ironman 12k winch install with the Trail Tailor hidden winch mount. Also installed the Huracan Fabrication tailgate storage.

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Finally finished up my Ironman 12k winch install with the Trail Tailor hidden winch mount. Also installed the Huracan Fabrication tailgate storage.

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Do you think there is a way to move up the hidden winch mount higher so fairlead ends up on the flat part of the front bumper (where the license plate is bolted)? Been thinking about that setup for a long time now.
 
Do you think there is a way to move up the hidden winch mount higher so fairlead ends up on the flat part of the front bumper (where the license plate is bolted)? Been thinking about that setup for a long time now.

No...the hwm is designed perfectly for the line to run straight out. Earlier model years shouldn't have the lower trim which makes it easier but it worked out great with the 1.5" Factor55 fairlead.
 
Happy day.
Nothing better then sitting outside and see him him stop.
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Generic Offroad led light(bajadesign knockoff).
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Moved the small light bar to the roof.
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Not happy with the spacing. I think it needs to be nearly flush. Test fitting. Apparently the knock off brands are Much cheaper for a reason. i.e. no wire harness included.
 
Today, I was able to finally install my torsion bars. Works been up and down at the shop, and today I took advantage of my empty twin post rack. I did replace the anchor arm bolt and pivot for peace of mind. My wheel hub to fender measurements are 22 1/4” on the left and 22 1/2” on the right. After a few hundred miles, I’ll remeasure and adjust. Big thanks to Slee for the prompt shipping and delivery.

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