What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (84 Viewers)

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Yeah it sucks. Just got official word that Cruise Moab is cancelled :( really big disappointment. Ah well at least I have a cruiser that drives really nicely after all this work even if there's nowhere to drive.

there exists a world outside of large gathering exploring lol, grab a buddy and explore alone.

also many go alone if trust their vehicle, get a gps phone just in case 15-25 a month for piece of mind like garmin inreach
 
Did the re-foam job on the blown front speakers. Thanks to @dnp for the nice door panel removal thread.
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Did you get the simplyspeakers kit? I tried doing online chat with them but I was directed to buy foam that didn't look like it was the right product. Do you have product numbers for what you bought? Thanks.
 
there exists a world outside of large gathering exploring lol, grab a buddy and explore alone.

also many go alone if trust their vehicle, get a gps phone just in case 15-25 a month for piece of mind like garmin inreach
No doubt but I am new to 4x4 driving only having owned my 100 for a little over a year. That's why I joined Rising Sun, to get the skills to allow me to go off on my own with confidence. I don't want to be the idiot that got stuck alone.

Moab is basically shut for all non-locals it's a class B misdemeanor for violation.
 
Did you get the simplyspeakers kit? I tried doing online chat with them but I was directed to buy foam that didn't look like it was the right product. Do you have product numbers for what you bought? Thanks.
This was the kit I bought: Amazon product ASIN B009DNMJ2M At first I thought it was the wrong kit but then I figured out that there plastic ring with the orange foam around the speakers has to be cut/pried off first to replace the inner foam ring. Foam was the correct size and no modifications were needed.
 
Day 1 of quarantine, boredom struck me badly so i started building my sleeping/storage platform. If shiet hits the fan and i lose my job, i can sell my house and move into my cruiser.

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Left over wood, built the drawer units

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I don't have the patience or need to make it look pretty like the last one, as long as it's functional, might not even carpet it.
 
Ended up doing my tie rod end, replacing my inner Tie rod boot, and rebooted the lower ball joint. Found what I believe is the steering rack leaking. Can someone else confirm? Do I need to replace?

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Started hearing a terrible grinding noise from the drivers front wheel. Kinda sounded like the squeal tabs on brakes so I went and bought some ceramic pads from Autozone. Got home, removed the wheel, and quickly realized just how gouged my rotor is:bang: Bearings are fresh and tight, upper & lower ball joints are solid, steering rack/tie rods are brand new, so what could it be you may ask?? The damn c-clip popped off the axle shaft which allowed the rotor to move in and out over every bump, which caused the pad to scrape my rotor at weird angles. The clip was just hanging out in the dust cover. Threaded a bolt into the axle, pulled it outward as far as I could to slip the clip back on, ‘resurfaced’ the rotors as best as I could by sanding and scuffing to make it driveable in the meantime, and threw in the new pads. I have two new rotors and larger c-clips on order. I’m really glad I caught this because it could’ve been a catastrophic failure! It also solved the ‘clunk’ that I assumed was worn splines in the hub flange.

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Started hearing a terrible grinding noise from the drivers front wheel. Kinda sounded like the squeal tabs on brakes so I went and bought some ceramic pads from Autozone. Got home, removed the wheel, and quickly realized just how gouged my rotor is:bang: Bearings are fresh and tight, upper & lower ball joints are solid, steering rack/tie rods are brand new, so what could it be you may ask?? The damn c-clip popped off the axle shaft which allowed the rotor to move in and out over every bump, which caused the pad to scrape my rotor at weird angles. The clip was just hanging out in the dust cover. Threaded a bolt into the axle, pulled it outward as far as I could to slip the clip back on, ‘resurfaced’ the rotors as best as I could by sanding and scuffing to make it driveable in the meantime, and threw in the new pads. I have two new rotors and larger c-clips on order. I’m really glad I caught this because it could’ve been a catastrophic failure! It also solved the ‘clunk’ that I assumed was worn splines in the hub flange.

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Same exact thing happen to me last month. I noticed my brake pedal going soft and having to pump it twice to get stopping power. The clip had popped off and the 54MM nit had backed off a bit. I chose to not replace the rotor or pads since both were fairly new with low miles on it. A month later and you cant even tell anything was wrong with the rotor and braking is great.
 
Started hearing a terrible grinding noise from the drivers front wheel. Kinda sounded like the squeal tabs on brakes so I went and bought some ceramic pads from Autozone. Got home, removed the wheel, and quickly realized just how gouged my rotor is:bang: Bearings are fresh and tight, upper & lower ball joints are solid, steering rack/tie rods are brand new, so what could it be you may ask?? The damn c-clip popped off the axle shaft which allowed the rotor to move in and out over every bump, which caused the pad to scrape my rotor at weird angles. The clip was just hanging out in the dust cover. Threaded a bolt into the axle, pulled it outward as far as I could to slip the clip back on, ‘resurfaced’ the rotors as best as I could by sanding and scuffing to make it driveable in the meantime, and threw in the new pads. I have two new rotors and larger c-clips on order. I’m really glad I caught this because it could’ve been a catastrophic failure! It also solved the ‘clunk’ that I assumed was worn splines in the hub flange.

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@TheForger, Your C-clip does not control your hub and rotor moving in and out, that is controlled by the two huge spindle nuts shown below. I would wager that the clunk was your CV moving in and out of the hub slapping the back side of it. I would triple check the spindle nuts on the front side and the seals and surfaces on the back side for damage. cruiser outfitters stocks everything you need including drilled and slotted rotors, that is where I got mine.
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@TheForger, Your C-clip does not control your hub and rotor moving in and out, that is controlled by the two huge spindle nuts shown below. I would wager that the clunk was your CV moving in and out of the hub slapping the back side of it. I would triple check the spindle nuts on the front side and the seals and surfaces on the back side for damage. cruiser outfitters stocks everything you need including drilled and slotted rotors, that is where I got mine.
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100% agree. That's why the bearings were actually the first thing I checked and they're torqued to 68ft-lbs to get 14.7lbs of break away and seem tight don't have really any play in them. It's really weird because you're right -- the c-clip doesn't keep the hub from moving, it keeps the axle from moving. However, after reinstalling the c-clip there was a noticeable reduction in play. So honestly I'm kinda at a loss for words as to how it helped. Obviously the axle no longer clunks, but I still don't quite understand how that could've caused the rotor wear. Maybe the missing c-clip allowed for like 2mm of movement and that was enough to cause the gouging??? All I know is I don't have nearly as much play (the little bit remaining is from the stretched c-clip, but like I said I have more on the way) and my brakes no longer grind :)
 

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