What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (97 Viewers)

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Re: quick fist mounts-

What are you using as your quick fist mount? I had the same idea to mount my shovel to my tire carrier and had another mount idea but I like your set up.

I used these aluminum mounts, drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes in the center for to fasten the quickfist mount itself. There is probably a better mount out there you could use, but I had these laying around.
 
Installed one of the eBay steering wheels on my kid's 2000 TLC

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how is the color match on the leather? I've heard mixed reviews.

In my son's grey interior, the leather color is a little bit too light. It appears closer to the lower dash color than the upper dash color, but it's still much better looking than the 18 year old wheel that we pulled out.
 
Cleaned throttle body, MAF sensor, new air filter, and installed sliders! Also figured out why my LC was so slow. Throttle cable needed to be tightened and previous owner installed new floormats on top of the old ones so the gas pedal couldn't be floored all the way. Previous hills where it was a struggle to go over 60mph I can now hit 80mph on.

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Whipped up some LED bulbs for the rear window vent switches. One of them was burned out so i replaced both with white LEDs in the oem holder. Looks like I'll be doing the heated seat switches next.
 
Replaced both heater T's, all six rubber hoses, used old clamps. Yep, it is a pain. All originals at about 212,000 miles, looked flawless before I started so questioned need to do it, but why take the chances of a catastrophic failure? Like most everyone, driver's side was flecked probably due to heat but not weak, and passenger side also discolored but lesser, hoses in perfect shape no cracking or swelling, no hardness. Total coolant drain, 2x flush with distilled then final fill with 50% Toyota Red and distilled. Radiator and overflow very clean. Old coolant looked brand new, but did flush out a reasonable amount of flakes/flecks, really good overall, but last fill was probably not a flush. Drained from radiator petcock and both block drains.

When I was waiting, I replaced a small rubber cushion on driver's door, bulb in vent window switch, bulb in ashtray, bulb in cig lighter bezel, and replaced accessory port in dash with another cig lighter, will probably put in a dual USB port later. Now every light in the vehicle works. Cleaned up the sticking PWR/2ND switch.
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Replaced brake pads (OEM) in all four corners. First time doing any brake work myself...the pedal is a little soft but so far, so good
Replace air filter (OEM)
Changed oil (M1) and filter (OEM)
 
Replaced brake pads (OEM) in all four corners. First time doing any brake work myself...the pedal is a little soft but so far, so good
Replace air filter (OEM)
Changed oil (M1) and filter (OEM)
FWIW: Always best practice to have rotors machine turned with new PADs, and flush brake fluid every 2 to 3 years.
 
I turned over the 200K mark, where can i get that 200K mile club sticker ? I'm halfway from being able to claim this as a high mileage vehicle.

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@dingoboyexplore is the guy who sells the high mileage stickers. They are top-drawer quality BTW. I've got th1 100 and 200k stickers. Can't put the 200 on for another 10k.
 
@dingoboyexplore is the guy who sells the high mileage stickers. They are top-drawer quality BTW. I've got th1 100 and 200k stickers. Can't put the 200 on for another 10k.

Any pics of the stickers?
 
FWIW: Always best practice to have rotors machine turned with new PADs, and flush brake fluid every 2 to 3 years.
Good advice. Thanks. I didn't think having the rotors machined was necessary as the pads were wearing evenly and I wasn't experiencing any vibrations or shaking while braking. Will get it done next go around for sure.
 
Replaced all bushings, brackets, end links, etc related to the rear sway bar- basically everything but the sway bar itself. Not too bad of a job except the bolts for the sway bar bracket bushings, those things were a pain to get started with the new rubber.....
 

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