Finished up my CV Axle job. Took longer than I wanted because one of my axles was damaged in shipment (dust seal) so the truck sat on the stands in the garage for the week waiting on the replacement.
At 183k miles, on this job I replaced Left & Right CV Axles and related hardware: Brand Spankin' new Toyota CV axles, diff seals, knuckle oil seals, dust shield seals and gaskets, new flanges, all new flange hardware and gaskets.
Picture of the Goods:
While I had the knuckles off, I cleaned up the spindles, removed the loose scale from behind the rotor dust shields, cleaned up knuckles & cleaned and repacked spindle bearings, pressed in new oil seals, replaced the lower ball joint boots, replaced diff gear oil M1-75/90, replaced engine oil & filter M1 EP, greased spiders M1 Syn, Greased slip joints Valvoline Synpower (moly fortified). Went through and checked torque spec on lots of nuts & bolts post HIH7 and the 4,000 mile trip to and from CO.
After lifting my truck and then 6 months later rebooting my leaking CV's, I had developed a slight acceleration vibe in my CV axles. It was to be expected after lifting of a stock 165k truck. While had I taken great care to match mark the CV components as I disassembled for the rebooting job, the wear must have been enough wear to bring on vibes. The CV's weren't clicking yet, but there was remarkable play on both outer tulips (in & out) and DS flange and axle splines were worn adding to drive line slop. I probably could have run these axles longer, but I wanted to refresh the driveline.
New flange next to 183K flange
The install went fine. Some peeps like to take a shortcut and only partially remove the steering knuckle and swinging it to the side. I did this the first time I removed the CV's to reboot them. This is my second time removing the axles, and I have to say taking the extra 20-30 minutes to completely remove the steering knuckle helps to provide the necessary working room to pull the CV out and install it cleanly. With a few good pulls, the CV axle will pop right out, and on install, once the splines are lined up in the diff (and the circlip open end is positioned downward) a few good pushes the axle slides in and locks in place: ( no hammering required) I hacked this technique from @2001LC.
The driveline is super tight now. My F-N-R clunk is gone, no acceleration vibe and this 100's driveline is happy once again.
Shout out to @2001LC for answering my TXT messages request for tech support along the way. Paying heed to his experience and attention to detail ( and the FSM) provided me with some good tips for a smooth install.
At 183k miles, on this job I replaced Left & Right CV Axles and related hardware: Brand Spankin' new Toyota CV axles, diff seals, knuckle oil seals, dust shield seals and gaskets, new flanges, all new flange hardware and gaskets.
Picture of the Goods:
While I had the knuckles off, I cleaned up the spindles, removed the loose scale from behind the rotor dust shields, cleaned up knuckles & cleaned and repacked spindle bearings, pressed in new oil seals, replaced the lower ball joint boots, replaced diff gear oil M1-75/90, replaced engine oil & filter M1 EP, greased spiders M1 Syn, Greased slip joints Valvoline Synpower (moly fortified). Went through and checked torque spec on lots of nuts & bolts post HIH7 and the 4,000 mile trip to and from CO.
After lifting my truck and then 6 months later rebooting my leaking CV's, I had developed a slight acceleration vibe in my CV axles. It was to be expected after lifting of a stock 165k truck. While had I taken great care to match mark the CV components as I disassembled for the rebooting job, the wear must have been enough wear to bring on vibes. The CV's weren't clicking yet, but there was remarkable play on both outer tulips (in & out) and DS flange and axle splines were worn adding to drive line slop. I probably could have run these axles longer, but I wanted to refresh the driveline.
New flange next to 183K flange
The install went fine. Some peeps like to take a shortcut and only partially remove the steering knuckle and swinging it to the side. I did this the first time I removed the CV's to reboot them. This is my second time removing the axles, and I have to say taking the extra 20-30 minutes to completely remove the steering knuckle helps to provide the necessary working room to pull the CV out and install it cleanly. With a few good pulls, the CV axle will pop right out, and on install, once the splines are lined up in the diff (and the circlip open end is positioned downward) a few good pushes the axle slides in and locks in place: ( no hammering required) I hacked this technique from @2001LC.
The driveline is super tight now. My F-N-R clunk is gone, no acceleration vibe and this 100's driveline is happy once again.
Shout out to @2001LC for answering my TXT messages request for tech support along the way. Paying heed to his experience and attention to detail ( and the FSM) provided me with some good tips for a smooth install.
They suggested it and it made sense to me.
