What do I have? 40 newb (6 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The 4.7 would definitely push a 40 series down the road. 👍🏻

The quirkish side of me likes the 1Fz. I think it’s the straight 6 sitting in the engine bay that has an appeal. The FE comes in at 212 hp/275 lb ft in the FE flavor. Uncle Toyota still has short blocks/heads available.

But, bang for the $$$ is still in the LS package.

Again, I was just curious as to the rationale/direction you were using/heading.
To break it down to the list simple aspects.

-cost effectiveness
- parts availability
- down time
 
“….I have a burning desire for a big trip in the 40 for my 40th. “

With that kind of goal in mind…I’ll need to take this memorable ride in my ‘75 when I turn 75 in a few years…as long as I….you know

In my 51 Land Cruiser years, I have only driven one FJ40 with a Chevy and it was a 327. A smooth ride with big power. Sorry to see an F/2F gone by the wayside but I’m sure you’ll enjoy the heck out of it

This was just auctioning on BAT
 
“….I have a burning desire for a big trip in the 40 for my 40th. “

With that kind of goal in mind…I’ll need to take this memorable ride in my ‘75 when I turn 75 in a few years…as long as I….you know

In my 51 Land Cruiser years, I have only driven one FJ40 with a Chevy and it was a 327. A smooth ride with big power. Sorry to see an F/2F gone by the wayside but I’m sure you’ll enjoy the heck out of it

This was just auctioning on BAT
I saw that this morning and thought about posting it up here, just to see what people would think of it, maybe starting a thread of “exceptional” finds.
Independent front suspension seemed backwards to me.

Prices have definitely been soft lately, but I think the no sale at 23 on this was a message.
 
Sitting outside in the 50* sun with the new guy while mom catches up on some sleep.

Trying to organize thoughts on what I want or need to do.

Higher Priority items : in no order

-manual oil pressure check

- water pump bypass hose (ordered city racer)

- distributor redo ( I have myself convinced I half asses the repair and it’s going to cost me an engine) so I plan to do it a little better this time. Add new plugs and wires at the same time

- valve seals - I researched this for about 2 hours yesterday and never came up with a good answer. Basically boiled down to I need to pull my valve cover and see what valve seals I have now.

- rear axle bearing/ seals/ shafts, pinion seal - one axle seal seeps, both axles had pitting where the bearing rides and you can hear them while driving. It’ll be hard not to add a locker at the point. Budget allowing.

- rear main/ oil pan gasket seal. New throw out bearing and transfer case seals.

- set rear pinion angle. I have a small driveline vibration at speed and I have a pretty big angle separation between transfer case output and rear yoke.

- clutch fan or even a plastic fan. I have a 6 blade steel fan now that’s very functional, also very loud

- tie rods / drag link - I need to figure out what pitman arm I have now - this would be a great time to seal up the Saginaw box.

- power steering pump- leaks at front seal.

- re pack front wheel bearings

- re torque everything

- trim U bolts

- remove broken bolts in spring pin brackets.

- install shackle frame bushings- ordered.

- finish hardtop fiberglass project. Needs some glass repair, needs paint, drip rail needs finished. Plan to do some sort of insulation at the same time and something for a head liner

- paint removal on everything that hasn’t been done yet.

-rear sill replacement. This one scares me more than anything LOL

IMG_1233.jpeg
 
For valve seals, I have used the Mahle SS20218 on a couple engines and no complaints. Usually, if I can get the valve grind kit” from Cruiser Outfit, it includes the top gaskets and valve seals so I’ll use those. If not (or if I’m doing seals without pulling head), the seals are super expensive individually for some reason so I’ll go the Mahle route.
 
For valve seals, I have used the Mahle SS20218 on a couple engines and no complaints. Usually, if I can get the valve grind kit” from Cruiser Outfit, it includes the top gaskets and valve seals so I’ll use those. If not (or if I’m doing seals without pulling head), the seals are super expensive individually for some reason so I’ll go the Mahle route.
Thank you!
I’m going to do seals with head on. No reason to pull it currently
 
To break it down to the list simple aspects.

-cost effectiveness
- parts availability
- down time
Availability is the other side of reliability. Its why I am going the LS route. LS is reliable as hell to begin with!!! So many advantages. Smooth engine! I can hit 90mph in my son’s 40 in a blink. Diesel efficiency does not pan out with it being more expensive. Cold start issues in diesels also weighed in for me.
 
I signed up for an “Event” today at an off-road park. Honestly thought my park days were over.
Looking forward to it and it gives me a hard date to get things accomplished by.

May 2-3 I need to be able to drive 70 miles towing my expo trailer, wheel for 2 days, and drive home.

I guess I need to add trailer light wiring to my list.
 
You know your 40 is spoken for by your little cruiser gal! Means you cant sell it. Its more than mere metal with that kind of cruiser meduclirin in her.
 
That's a lot of idling. Have you checked the speedo with a gps? It may not read miles right if the tires are different than stk.
 
Also I got fuel for the first time since filling up after getting the odometer working..

Averaged 7mpg.. I expected 10. However it has 15 min of idle time on cold days so that probably has a lot to do with it.
The thinking now is that a cold engine will heat-up faster if you engage the clutch and apply load on it.

What oil is in this engine?

38/38 Weber (double-pumper)?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom