What do I have? 40 newb (2 Viewers)

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A lot going on since I’ve posted here. Had a trip planned next weekend in the 40 and had the punch list all but knocked out.

It developed a weird sound Friday night driving it home, I thought it was spark knocking and I pondered if I put the wrong fuel in it.

Fast forward to this morning and I Button up the trailer wiring, finally wire up a reverse light, swap my trailer battery and hook on.

Trip to the car wash to clean up the trailer and the parts store for some final wire supplies to add in an auxiliary 12v plug in. Under load taking off or pulling a hill it sounds like extreme spark knock.

I listen closer, oh it cracked the header. That’s easy.

We get home and watch lunch, do the dad stuff and kids take a nap.

So I organize my trailer, flush the water system, and wheel under the 40.

No cracks, no exhaust leaks. Well damn.

Ok with the hood open it sounds like it popping through the intake. Well I need to reseal my valve cover anyway so let’s adjust the valves. Valves were way way out, ok this probably isn’t it but it needed it.

Starts right up, much quieter. Still pops.

Thinks, sends videos to mud buds. Pretty sure I know what’s wrong. Pulled in the garage, tear down commence.

I guess I found my oil consumption problem as well.

IMG_1867.jpeg


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IMG_1875.jpeg
 
I sent @RevISK a video for an opinion at 3:20, head was in the floor at 4:40.. not bad time using hand tools in my home garage.

Now to decide the steps forward.

This thing leaks oil from everything but the side cover gasket, has unknown miles, a hodgepodge of parts.

However the cylinder wall isn’t hurt.

I have a lot of parts in prep for an LS swap. Have a 4.8 and 5.3 located for my choosing.

If I was smart I would throw a piston in it, bolt it back together and go on with an oil pan gasket and rear main.

Part of me wants to Re ring the entire thing. New bearings, completely freshen it up.

Part of me wants to just start the LS swap process, however fun funds would make that a super slow process.

Time to search the net for parts and decide.

Looks like I’ll be taking the 200 this weekend instead.

IMG_1876.jpeg
 
Went down this rabbit hole a coupe of months back. When i popped the head off, flat top pistons in domed head and engine. I bought all new domed pistons from $OR. Lucky mine were standard. Reason I am sharing, initially before @cruisermatt recognized the PO BS, I was planning to replace just the affected piston that had weak compression. When I took all out they all had broken rings despite good compression. Dropped the oil pan and popped the pistons and did a complete re-ring. If you want to get on the road, best bet is to replace piston(s) and rings knowing your cylinders look good. You get to inspect main bearings as well in the process
 
ceylonfj40nut said:
Went down this rabbit hole a coupe of months back. When i popped the head off, flat top pistons in domed head and engine. I bought all new domed pistons from $OR. Lucky mine were standard. Reason I am sharing, initially before @cruisermatt recognized the PO BS, I was planning to replace just the affected piston that had weak compression. When I took all out they all had broken rings despite good compression. Dropped the oil pan and popped the pistons and did a complete re-ring. If you want to get on the road, best bet is to replace piston(s) and rings knowing your cylinders look good. You get to inspect main bearings as well in the process
Click to expand...
It’s the flat top ones that are hard to find, right?
 
ceylonfj40nut said:
Went down this rabbit hole a coupe of months back. When i popped the head off, flat top pistons in domed head and engine. I bought all new domed pistons from $OR. Lucky mine were standard. Reason I am sharing, initially before @cruisermatt recognized the PO BS, I was planning to replace just the affected piston that had weak compression. When I took all out they all had broken rings despite good compression. Dropped the oil pan and popped the pistons and did a complete re-ring. If you want to get on the road, best bet is to replace piston(s) and rings knowing your cylinders look good. You get to inspect main bearings as well in the process
Click to expand...

Was Yours an F or 2F?
 
I do ... Corbin... they look flat to me, are they? I have some 30 over flats somewhere in storage - maybe send your block number and I can double check - feel free to txt me too or DM if you wish.. Oh wait, you have a 1F... sorry.. scratch that. I have flat for 2f - those will be too big. 1F is 90 mm STD and 2F is 94mm.

IMO - if SBC is in your near future (1-3 yrs IMO) and you need this to get by until you have enough coin - Then if walls are ok - just get some new rings from Hastings. Maybe do main bearings - Head Gasket kit from Racer - dangle a case of beer and might have a few thirsty people show. - maybe valve seals for head - but some decent updates to kick the can and not a ton of $$.

I see you can get main bearings - depending if over, STD, or what for 7 plus shipping (Taiho brand) - seeing 50 and 75 over in stock -
 
RevISK said:
It’s the flat top ones that are hard to find, right?
Click to expand...
No Domed. Std domed available at $OR. Over sized domes are harder to find.
 
OlYellr said:
I do ... Corbin... they look flat to me, are they? I have some 30 over flats somewhere in storage - maybe send your block number and I can double check - feel free to txt me too or DM if you wish.. Oh wait, you have a 1F... sorry.. scratch that. I have flat for 2f - those will be too big. 1F is 90 mm STD and 2F is 94mm.

IMO - if SBC is in your near future (1-3 yrs IMO) and you need this to get by until you have enough coin - Then if walls are ok - just get some new rings from Hastings. Maybe do main bearings - Head Gasket kit from Racer - dangle a case of beer and might have a few thirsty people show. - maybe valve seals for head - but some decent updates to kick the can and not a ton of $$.

I see you can get main bearings - depending if over, STD, or what for 7 plus shipping (Taiho brand) - seeing 50 and 75 over in stock -
Click to expand...

OlYellr said:
I agree with CD - pistons would be even better but if scrapping it for something else, for me, tough call. I did see a place saying about $65-72 a piston for 1F.
Click to expand...

Yes 1F on my end.

I need to bring a mic home and measure to see if I’m standard size or not.

I’ll have to look up Hastings. A google search didn’t show much on parts, but I did find rings and city racer has an engine gasket kit to seal everything back up.

I think at this point I’m going to pull the drivetrain out. Push the cruiser outside and go from there.

As of now my game plan is - take cyl head to machine shop, have surfaced/ new valve seals and valve job if need. I already have the seals as I was planning on that a while back.

Pull the bottom end apart and find a piston and ring set. Obviously a simple hone to clean up the walls. Single piston will be the plan as of now. I have a lead on a single from a mud member. I’m tempted to do bearings, although my oil pressure is ok, and it has no noises. I think I’ll flip the gear over in the oil pump to see if it brings any oil pressure change.

Clean and seal everything, repaint and add a couple of seals to my transfer case. Reinstall and cross fingers. Maybe it won’t leave oil spots everywhere I park.

If it blows up in the first 100 miles it’ll be a boat anchor somewhere. The first 1,000 well that sucks.

If it’ll survive 10,000 miles I won’t even be mad at it.

Hoping I can keep cost under a G. I have all the tools and have rebuilt a few engines in the past. It’s a very tedious clean process.
 
I bought gasket from $OR and cruisercorps. They did not hold a candle to City Racer. OEM.
 
My piston faces had STD ( standard 😁) stamped on them.
 
clrussell said:
Yes 1F on my end.

I need to bring a mic home and measure to see if I’m standard size or not.

I’ll have to look up Hastings. A google search didn’t show much on parts, but I did find rings and city racer has an engine gasket kit to seal everything back up.

I think at this point I’m going to pull the drivetrain out. Push the cruiser outside and go from there.

As of now my game plan is - take cyl head to machine shop, have surfaced/ new valve seals and valve job if need. I already have the seals as I was planning on that a while back.

Pull the bottom end apart and find a piston and ring set. Obviously a simple hone to clean up the walls. Single piston will be the plan as of now. I have a lead on a single from a mud member. I’m tempted to do bearings, although my oil pressure is ok, and it has no noises. I think I’ll flip the gear over in the oil pump to see if it brings any oil pressure change.

Clean and seal everything, repaint and add a couple of seals to my transfer case. Reinstall and cross fingers. Maybe it won’t leave oil spots everywhere I park.

If it blows up in the first 100 miles it’ll be a boat anchor somewhere. The first 1,000 well that sucks.

If it’ll survive 10,000 miles I won’t even be mad at it.

Hoping I can keep cost under a G. I have all the tools and have rebuilt a few engines in the past. It’s a very tedious clean process.
Click to expand...
I have a 2 leads on single pistons as backup if you need
 
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