Replaced my fuel tank which had cracked on the top near the e-brake cable channel.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (56 Viewers)
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LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
You'll see it after you take the first one off. On the backside of the nut or bolt, there will be grooves cut in it that make it not loosen itself. Hard to explain but you'll see the grooves, I believe on the nuts. Take one off and note which have it.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
It says the nuts in this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-replace-the-u-joints-in-your-80.72157/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-replace-the-u-joints-in-your-80.72157/
Flew from Lafayette, Louisiana to Chicago to pick up and drive home my new (to me) 1997 FZJ 80. She has 124k on the clock! Drove 1027 miles in two days and loved every mile!
Slow motion impact with a fallen tree. Looking the other side trying not to roll off the hill. (Hole from damage multiplier installed by past owner). Time to start working on the bumper build and some metalwork.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
SONUVABITCH! It's a PITA!!
SUMMIT CRUISERS
SILVER Star
I have used a 1/2" impact, swivel and the 14mm backup wrench before. Yes it is a PITA.
I live in Lafayette! We have a great group down here. Hope to see you soon.
Other news. Dad got some new shoes on his rig
And I started the J-moose build. Ready for a flat rack
bloc
SILVER Star
None of the dozens of toyota driveshaft bolts I've removed have been serrated locknuts. They have all had split lockwashers.. but no locknuts. The washers go under the nut on the xfer case ends of the shafts, and on the axle ends the bolt goes through the washer, through the driveshaft end, through the flange, and the nut goes into the gap between the pinion flange and diff. Not sure why they put the washer behind the nut in one spot and bolt in the other, but whatever. They use a very high grade steel and a shallow thread pitch with a pretty significant amount of torque to clamp the piss out of the flanges. It is a good system.
For stubborn ones you can hook the box end of another combination wrench onto the open end of the one you are using to loosen the bolt..
like this:
http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/40948650+w600+cr1/129_1206_52+low_buck_bonanza+wrench_in_a_wrench
I'll also use sockets and my 1/2" breaker bar sometimes. When they are torqued appropriately they are tight but a combination wrench, work gloves, and some force will get them loose.
The other thing I'll do depending on access is put the two 14-mm combination wrenches (one on the nut, one on the bolt) closely aligned so that simply squeezing the two wrenches together with both hands gets the initial loosening done. This may provide more torque than simply pushing or pulling, again depending on access.
I'm not sure why they call for marking the flanges.. technically with the centering ring and the shaft balanced individually it shouldn't matter how it is bolted in relation to the flanges. But that is what they call for.
For stubborn ones you can hook the box end of another combination wrench onto the open end of the one you are using to loosen the bolt..
like this:
http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/40948650+w600+cr1/129_1206_52+low_buck_bonanza+wrench_in_a_wrench
I'll also use sockets and my 1/2" breaker bar sometimes. When they are torqued appropriately they are tight but a combination wrench, work gloves, and some force will get them loose.
The other thing I'll do depending on access is put the two 14-mm combination wrenches (one on the nut, one on the bolt) closely aligned so that simply squeezing the two wrenches together with both hands gets the initial loosening done. This may provide more torque than simply pushing or pulling, again depending on access.
I'm not sure why they call for marking the flanges.. technically with the centering ring and the shaft balanced individually it shouldn't matter how it is bolted in relation to the flanges. But that is what they call for.
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LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
bloc
SILVER Star
Factory prop-shaft bolt/washer/nut from the parts bucket. What halfway looks like serrations on the back of the nut is actually paint that transferred from the back of the pinion flange to the nut. The machining on the back of the flange makes the paint look serrated, but this is easily scraped off.. to reveal smooth metal with the same flat-gray color as the rest of the prop-shaft hardware. I left half of the paint on the back of the nut in the picture for reference.
My FZJ-80 rear bolts are larger and I don't have any spares to take pictures of.. maybe those are serrated, but I don't remember seeing that either. And I'm OCD enough to notice this stuff.
All of that said.. toyota definitely uses bolts with "teeth" on the back of the flange for suspension links on these trucks.. so it isn't completely outside their wheelhouse.
Edit: Toyota uses the same part number for the nuts on both ends of the shaft. This doesn't allow for what was posted in the linked thread about the axle end nuts being serrated.
My FZJ-80 rear bolts are larger and I don't have any spares to take pictures of.. maybe those are serrated, but I don't remember seeing that either. And I'm OCD enough to notice this stuff.
All of that said.. toyota definitely uses bolts with "teeth" on the back of the flange for suspension links on these trucks.. so it isn't completely outside their wheelhouse.
Edit: Toyota uses the same part number for the nuts on both ends of the shaft. This doesn't allow for what was posted in the linked thread about the axle end nuts being serrated.
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Drove to the top of Alder Creek road, day camped, hit Elevation Brewery in Poncha Springs on our way back to Salida.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
"This is a ½ banana job requiring you to undo 8 bolts (although you have to remember to loosen from the bolt side, not the nut, because the nuts are friction locking and can wear out)"
From this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/drive-shaft-pm-and-drive-train-troubleshooting-for-faq.80904/
Not sure what years this applies to, or if it's just front or rear, but I know it was true for mine.
Installed some outback drawers.
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Fixed my spare tire mount and raised my almost dragging tire back. Dragged the spare over a good sized rock in a descent last weekend and bent the mount way down. Gotta get a rear bumper and tore carrier asap. Hoping to weld up a tube bumper to somewhat match my Metaltech front bumper and opor sliders.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Man the quality sure has gone down. I would have expected far better. That's not even from the dent and scratch pile.
Maybe replace the black plastic wrap with carpet? Can the cardboard at least be stained?
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Hope you don't use the same method for changing your oil
lol you guys are awesome! Yes, they look better than that, i'll take a pic.
However, i will say that i was a little pissed at them... i mean, when you spend over $1000 to get drawers for your truck and they come, then you have to practically completely disassemble them and then measure to find out that you have to drill holes in them to fit one of the most popular 4x4 trucks in the world... i mean come on!
However, i will say that i was a little pissed at them... i mean, when you spend over $1000 to get drawers for your truck and they come, then you have to practically completely disassemble them and then measure to find out that you have to drill holes in them to fit one of the most popular 4x4 trucks in the world... i mean come on!
Just got back from a trip to the UP Huron Mountains area.
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