2008 Sequoia Limited Build thread (2 Viewers)

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Greetings Tundra/ Sequoia Mud Members.

I am neither new to Tundras/Sequoias or to Mud, however, recently I had the opportunity to pick up an absolutely beautiful Black Sequoia Limited 4x4 from a forum member.

For all of those that snoozed on this deal SOLD - Los Angeles: 2008 Sequoia 4x4 Limited (Black) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/los-angeles-2008-sequoia-4x4-limited-black.1332501/ Jeepster posted
, you missed out on both an amazing machine and meeting a great dude.

The plan is to get the Sequoia fully maintenanced and then get my 21 Cement Grey double cab 8' bed Tundra fully detailed and get rid of it. It's a good truck, but I feel like if I continue using it as my daily driver and for work that it will end up destroyed. I will still have a payment but a trashed truck. I'd rather get away from the payment and from a vehicle my work asks me to use for work.

I went with a Sequoia because my first gen was an ultra-reliable beast that saved my bacon when I rolled it. It kept running and returned me safely 100 miles to home, then, months later it drove onto the flatbed that hauled it away for good.

As you can see from the pictures in the ad there have been several tasteful upgrades already done. However, as soon as I contacted Jeepster and found out the Sequoia was still available the wheels started turning. I wasn't decided on any modifications until after the nearly 900 trouble free mile trip home.

My first order of business after full maintenance is an ARB bumper (7-13 Tundra 3415010) which I ordered this morning. The next order of business is replacing the window belt moldings of the doors, I already ordered and received them from my parts guys at the local Toyota.

The driver side is pretty well baked and needs replaced, the passenger side moldings were faded but good, I ordered all 4. I will be fixing the gooey hatch handle at some point also.

I was hesitant to do it, since it already has some nice Morimoto LEDs on it, but I ordered 2018-2022 Sequoia platinum LED lights and fender extensions from Toyota as well. I have the necessary components on order to build the wiring harness for the new Sequoia lights. That being said, I will clean up the Morimotos and list them for sale soon.

I am not quite sure on the suspension yet. It all seems quite new and definitely has LOW miles on it. It handles beautifully and was well executed. I'm not sure what the ride height and feel will be like once I load it with the ARB and a winch as well as once I design and build a rear bumper for it. I am thinking of either upgrading to the IMS or just go full ridiculous and get the MRA's like those on my 80 Series.

I will be adding some auxiliary lighting also. During the trip home I had to drive through a winter storm across 3 separate passes. Each time I found the need for something other than the LED headlights. It would have been extremely beneficial to have had some amber lights.

I have a pair of Dobinsons 8.25" Zenith lights, an ARB AR40v2 light bar and purchased yellow Morimoto 4Banger fogs for the bumper. I may add a pair of Amber spots later, either Baja Designs Lp pro or Morimoto BigBanger HXBs. I will be running a Warn VR EVO 12k with synthetic line on the ARB and will make that decision once everything is mounted.

I think I will keep it fairly mild, unlike my 80. I'm thinking 35's on 17" wheels. I may or may not regear it at that point.

I will update the evolution of the Sequoia as it progresses and as I have time. Thanks for reading.


60 miles from the roll and all it needed were rocks cleared from the tire beads and some air in the tires to get me the other 40 or so miles home.
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NEXT day. I'm standing taking the picture from where I left the road backwards, if you look really close you can see my friend in the distance where I came to a stop on all 4 tires.
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I wasn't the only casualty that night, 11 cars including myself wrecked along a mile of road. Including this Semi that landed on its trailer.
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And the Tundra I have done nothing with except add a rail system in the bed, an ARB outlet and a toolbox. The roof top tent and ARB fridge were just for the hunting season. It came off immediately after.

The ARB plug is wired through the bed at the back. I pulled the oval plug on the driver side, modeled it in Fusion 360 and made a screw together "Sandwhich" style mount for the ARB plug. One side goes through the hole between the cab and bed and has a hole for wiring, the other side has a hole for wiring and a mount for the arb plug. You screw the 2 halves together and it clamps onto the edge of the hole in the bed, then you screw the outlet on, Viola. Non-invasive mount.

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The parts are piling up boys!

-Winch: Warn Evo 12k
-Winch Rope: Maxtrax (going to be a pain to put the spool on)
-Winch Fairlead: Factor 55 1.5" offset
-Winch hook: Factor 55 Ultrahook red flavored...like the Kool-aid of my youth.

I will be using Bubba Ropes version of the Plasmalok to hold the rope to the drum and a Factor 55 spool for the hook to attach to.

Also, like a good owner I bought the full 5 volume FSM and all toyota maintenance parts. Not all parts have come in yet. Also purchased some TURD...TRD...sway bars. They supposedly fit...we will see.

I'm going SAE compliant yellow Morimoto 4 banger HXB 2.0 wide beams in the fog light openings of the bumper.
Then using my Dobinsons Zenith spots and the ARB intensity light bar that was meant for my Land Cruiser. I Can get an amber lense for it. That should provide adequate amber light and white.

EDIT: I went with the Morimoto fog lights that came on the Sequoia in the Fog light openings as the 4 bangers are quiet small. In fact, they're almost small enough to fit in the small lower rectangular holes of the ARB, so I am designing brackets to mount the 4bangers behind those openings. That way I can have my choice of amber or white light.

I may end up cramming the 2 Dobbi's and 2 Morimoto BigBanger HXB Amber's down the center, I will have a better idea once the winch control box and other lighting is mounted

I have (5) ICON Recon Pro wheels in the 17x8.5" +25 offset flavor on order. They're the charcoal with black rock rings. I wanted bead grip of some sort, either Method, FN or Icons, Ultimately it came down to the replaceable rock rings on the Icons. The idea of being able to refresh the wheels if they hit a rock or a curb was the major selling point. I will never have abused looking wheels

I am researching tires still. I haven't decided which brand to go with. I'm pretty sure I'm going with Either a Falken wilpeak AT4W 35x11.50R17 or Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT in 255/85R17 .

I also purchased the Eaton E-Locker for the front...which means I'm roped into buying the Auburn locker for the rear whenever Tandem restocks, Lol.

EDIT: I purchase the Auburn rear select-a-loc locker from Tandem and am awaiting their restock.

That's right, selective purchasing to force my own hand at a later date.

If I go to a different Suspension I will do the diffs and replace the lower control arms And rear uppers at the same time, as well as, add some airbags inside the rear coils in case I ever want to tow.

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I will utilize this section to track all of the parts and mileage they were installed at to keep a maintenance record for myself.

Engine Maintenance parts: 138765

Water pump 16100-09491/ Aisin WPT-804
Fluid Coupling Bracket 16380-0S010/ Aisin FBT-014
Acc. belt tensioner 16620-0S012
Acc. Idler Pulley 16630-38012
Serpentine Belt 90916-A2033
Thermostat Housing assm. 16031-0S010
Upper coolant hose 16571-0S010
Lower coolant hose 16572-incorrect.
8x Spark Plugs, Denso Iridium 90919-01191
Oil filter cartridge 04152-38020/ 04152-YZZA4
2x Toyota Coolant pre-diluted 00272-SLLC2
Toyota Seal packing 1282B 08826-00100 The proper FIPG for long life coolant filled systems

Optional: These are things that you may as well do while you're in there, including resealing the heat exchanger under the intake. 138xxx
Radiator 16400-0S010
Water pipe inlet 16322-0S010 NOT NEEDED unless yours is heavily eaten, I don't know yet so I'm just being prepared. For doing heat exchanger re-seal.
2x Intake Manifold Gasket 17171-0S030 For doing the heat exchanger re-seal.
Throttle body Gasket 22271-0S010 For doing the heat exchanger re-seal.
Alternator 180 amp 27060-38050 May as well do it while the Radiator and stuff is out, and now that there is a winch.

Super Optional: These are all of the small hoses that often go neglected and often last the vehicles life, this is purely precautionary OCD 138xxx
Engine coolant hose, bypass 16264-0F021
Engine coolant hose, bypass 16264-
Engine coolant hose, bypass 16261-0S010
Engine coolant hose, bypass 16261-
Engine coolant hose, bypass 16267-0S011
Engine coolant hose, bypass 16267-0S030
Engine coolant hose, bypass 16282-0S011
Engine coolant hose, bypass 16281-0S010
Engine coolant hose, bypass 16295-38010
Engine coolant hose, bypass 99556-20200
Engine coolant hose, bypass 87245-Incorrect part
Engine coolant hose, bypass 87245-Incorrect part
Engine coolant hose, bypass 87245-Incorrect part
Engine coolant hose, bypass 87245-Incorrect Part
Engine coolant hose, bypass 87245-Incorrect Part
Engine coolant hose, bypass 87245

Body Parts:
Left side moldings were badly sun damaged.

Left Front window belt molding 68210-0C020
Left Rear window belt molding 68164-0C030
Right front window belt molding 68160-0C020
Right Rear window belt molding 68163-0C030

Headlight UPGRAYDD: link below
138xxx 3/2024
Right 2022 Platinum LED 81110-0C190
Left 2022 Platinum LED 81150-0C150
Right Fender extension 53931-0C904
Left Fender Extension 53932-0C904
4x Retainer clips 90467-07201 (for new fender extensions)
4x Headlight Retainer screws 90159-A0034 (to replace rusty top headlight mounting screws)
2x Black Park sensor housing 89348-33060-C0 (for ARB bumper installation)
6x Flange nut 90178-A0025 ( to replace rusted core support nuts)

On a side note the dude ordering the incorrect parts quit. Probably not a coincidence.
 
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The Modification tracking index

Though I don't foresee this post growing too large, I didn't with my 80 series either and it is all over the place. This is an attempt to keep things organized.

Headlight upgrade-----2nd Gen sequoia Headlight upgrade - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2nd-gen-sequoia-headlight-upgrade.1334421/
ARB bumper----- 2008 Sequoia ARB Bumper install - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2008-sequoia-arb-bumper-install.1334525/
Morimoto Fog lights-----No Specific Post...Yet
Dobinsons 8.25" 155w Zenith lights---- POST #10
ARB AR40V2 light bar----DISREGARD, NOT USING.
Warn VR EVO 12k/ Factor 55 Fairlead----No Specific Post
Synthetic Winch Rope---- No Specific post
Factor 55 rope spool and UltraHook---- No Specific Post
Hatch sensor cover replacement--- 2nd Gen Sequoia gooey hatch handle repair - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2nd-gen-sequoia-gooey-hatch-handle-repair.1335968/
Window molding Replacement----- POST #16
Wheels & Tires----
TRD Sway bars----No Specific post
 
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Wow, that's a great deal on the Sequoia. Would have jumped on that had I been looking.
I'm glad you found the white one. I searched far and wide for a white Sequoia but nothing I found was as good a price, well equipped or rust and accident free. The only white one I found was an SR5 from the rust belt with 30k more miles the dealership wanted $3k more for. They also didn't disclose the 2 times it had been rear ended. Shady business.
 
I'm glad you found the white one. I searched far and wide for a white Sequoia but nothing I found was as good a price, well equipped or rust and accident free. The only white one I found was an SR5 from the rust belt with 30k more miles the dealership wanted $3k more for. They also didn't disclose the 2 times it had been rear ended. Shady business.
Was very fortunate, I was meeting another local Toyota guy to buy parts and he pulled up in it, I offered to buy it and he said okay... He had just detailed it and took pictures to post for sale, fell into my lap. 2017. we have 4 kids so finding one with the middle row bench was hard to do, this one was the sr5 with the upgrade package and leather so I couldn't pass it up
 
Parts are still rolling in for the cooling system so no real work has begun. However, since I've been working on the Headlight upgrade and the ARB bumper I have been taking care of rust as I've found it. I've been removing it with a wire brush, wire wheel and 2k Epoxy priming and painting it. The battery area was pretty extensively rusted, albeit lightly. I just got the last coat of primer on it last night and will paint it this evening.

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Well, the TRD front sway bar is a definite fit. The yellow Morimoto lights are on hold for a bit. I installed the Morimoto fog lights that came installed on the Sequoia into the ARB bumper. I designed some brackets to mount the Morimoto HXB lights in the ARB little square openings at the bottom. They have 15 degrees upward tilt and 18 downward so I should be able to get them leveled out. Hopefully they still cast light properly being set back in the bumper.

I also mounted the ARB light bar using the bullbar clamps and I'm not a fan of the look, a bit too protuberous for my liking. Also, the light bar barely fits under the bottom bar, so I don't think the pedestal mounts would work since they add 10mm of height. I may just get a different light bar and put the ARB on the 80 series as originally planned.

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Well, the TRD front sway bar us a definite fit. The yellow Morimoto lights are on hold for a bit. I installed the Morimoto fog lights that came installed on the Sequoia into the ARB bumper. I designed some brackets to mount the Morimoto HXB lights in the ARB little square openings at the bottom. They have 15 degrees upward tilt and 18 downward so I should be able to get them leveled out. Hopefully they still cast light properly being set back in the bumper.

I also mounted the ARB light bar using the bullbar clamps and I'm not a fan of the look, a bit too protuberous for my liking. Also, the light bar barely fits under the bottom bar, so I don't think the pedestal mounts would work since they add 10mm of height. I may just get a different light bar and put the ARB on the 80 series as originally planned.
I just ordered TRD sway bars front and rear, with new end links as well. Heard the rear sway requires dropping the driveshaft, something I haven't done before but 4 bolts how hard can it be (famous last words)? Other than the driveshaft, it only seems difficult due to freezing/breaking bolts perhaps most often for the bushings.
 
I just ordered TRD sway bars front and rear, with new end links as well. Heard the rear sway requires dropping the driveshaft, something I haven't done before but 4 bolts how hard can it be (famous last words)? Other than the driveshaft, it only seems difficult due to freezing/breaking bolts perhaps most often for the bushings.
I have the rear also, I haven't even looked at that yet. I'm sure there is a way to get it in without removing the driveshaft. Maybe not, I guess I will see. Not that things should shift when the driveline is removed but it's always wise to use a paint pen and match mark the flanges. If you're in Texas I wouldn't worry too much about Frozen fasteners unless your Sequoia spent time in the rust belt. If that's the case I'd have a welder and some weldable nuts on standby. Not many a rusty bolt has stood up to having a nut welded on and cranked out while hot. May consider grinding the head of the bolt down and preemptively welding a nut on if they're really rusty. Better than snapping it off flush and screwing with it then. Best of luck to you.
 
That Sequoia is definitely a good find, especially with all of the upgrades. I am in a GX470 and want to move over into a larger vehicle so now I cannot stop looking at these Sequoias!
No doubt about it, the gx470 is a great vehicle. If you need the space a Sequoia is a great size upgrade. It is nice to see that the 2nd gen sequoias have some aftermarket support. Not as much as most other vehicles but it's still there.
 
Looks like FedEx delivered to the correct place. Every now and then they get one right.

Sadly, if the rear locker supplier hadn't taken so long to respond and hadn't waited until after I ordered the rear to say anything at all, I would have probably given them my business for more stuff.

I reached out multiple times through different methods and then only received a message after ordering. Made me feel like their customer service wouldn't be great and they're not the kind of place I would want to do business with. Those are my feelings and I wouldn't discourage others. Maybe they were super busy for a couple weeks or something.

Just happy to have lockers available and one in my possession.

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DOOR BELT MOLDING REPLACEMENT.

Folks, the FSM has you remove the door panel and mirror just to remove the belt molding on the outside. You don't need to do this if you're replacing the molding. I did for the driver front, then realized if I had looked at the replacement molding I could have saved a bunch of time. I put some tape along the edge of the molding to protect the paint. Then i rolled the windows down and used a plastic trim tool to push under the edge of the molding, inward and upward. On the front doors start at the rear of the trim and pry the one tiny clip out. For the rear doors start at the front edge (toward vehicle front) and repeat.

The replacement according to the FSM took ≈ 30 minutes. The other 3 didn't take 10 minutes a piece.
 
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I received the wheels Monday and got to work preparing them for tire mounting.

The prep work consisted of removing all of the bead retention pins and applying a thin coat of Nickel anti-sieze to the threads; and a thin film of Sil-Glyde to the O-rings.

The instructions call for anti-sieze and oiling the O-rings but I tend to use Sil-glyde for O-ring seal and hoses.

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I ordered the Extended thread lug nuts as ICON said they were necessary, however, after installing a wheel to check for fitment and wheel stud protrusion I found that I have almost exactly 14mm of usable thread which should be adequate for standard conical seat lug nuts.

The one thing that was a little alarming is the amount of space between the caliper and inner wheel. The ends of the caliper are a mere 3 or so MM from the inside circumference of the wheel. I could just barely slide a piece of cardboard in between the wheel and caliper. I'm not sure I like that fitment, I suppose only time will tell if it becomes a real issue.

I will post some pictures once they're mounted.
 
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I have decided that instead of using individual switches for every auxiliary circuit such as the morimoto fog lights and the Dobinsons etc... that I wanted a cleaner and more adaptable system than my 80 series.

This led me to look at 6, 8 and 12 gang remote switching relay boxes. Originally I was thinking Garmin, then you have to have additional devices to operate it. Then I was ready to settle on something like the Auxbeam 8 gang but I really didn't like the amperage capacity of the circuits.thays when I happened across the Scosche M8RIX.


I found a new unit for a great deal and ordered it. I received it a little over a week ago and have been planning the installation since.

There just isn't a great place to install it in the Sequoias engine bay. Some might say put it on top of the fuse box or build a bracket to go over the top of the fuse box or something. I considered housing in the ARB bumper at one point. As I stared at the engine bay looking for any available space it came to me. I will more than likely have to build a bracket regardless and the battery sits so far down...why not mount it under the Battery? Why Under? Because it's an Aluminum housing and I'd rather have a battery smashing down on it than it smashing down on the battery.

So, I went against my own standard operating procedure and took some rough measurements, designed a bracket up in Fusion 360 and sent it to be made. I guess we will see if it fits when it gets here. I usually print stuff like this out first to ensure relationships and dimensions but my Fusion subscription is about to expire and I'm not entirely sure I will renew it for what it cost. I went with ⅛" 5053 Aluminum, I will make all of the mounting holes and tray locating holes when it arrives, then prep and Epoxy primer it. Then I will use the original plastic battery tray on top and find some longer J-bolts to hold the battery down. Once I have all the parts I will get some pictures and my exhaustive ramblings will make sense.

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Meanwhile I removed the shifter and cup holder portions of the center console to get the Tow Haul switch panel out. I drew up and started iterative prototyping a screen holder for the M8RIX touch screen. I will grab some pictures of that when I go to work on it this evening. I may change it again and I'm still deciding what to do with the Tow Haul and The CDL switches. I'm just working 1 problem at a time. I have a solution in mind but I'm waiting on other stuff to arrive to see how it all jives.

Here are some screen mount model pictures until I can get a picture of the actual prototype mounted.
It is angled up slightly and also angled toward the driver side slightly. I had originally encapsulated the back of the screen and had screw holes, however it nearly doubled the print time on an already long print.
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I am undecided whether I will just paint the existing FDM print or if I will resin print or possibly resin cast the final piece.
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In case it wasn't clear before, this is the Tow Haul switch panel I'm replacing.

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Not sure about the angles and all, but this is the general idea for the digital switch panel.
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This was the first print of this design and the 5th iteration in total. The print was warped and the tab on the top left corner broke off with the support material. I changed some settings for the second print and took some extra time removing the supports. I smoothed it out a little and will prep and prime it. Then sand and repeat until I have a nice smooth finish. I will decide then which direction I will go with the final piece.
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Well, it's 0336 and I just got home from finishing buttoning up the Sequoia. I sprayed the M8RIX panel with adhesion promoter and a coat of filler primer. I haven't any sanding or anything but I did install it. I still intend on smoothing it out and potentially making a mold to resin cast it. Still undecided on the angles and all.

I really Jeeped up some wiring and a mounting situation to test the M8RIX, Morimoto 4Banger fog lights and Dobinsons lights. On a side note I got ahold of Dobinsons and they make Amber lens covers , available in Australia. Dobinsons North America said they would air freight some here. I'm ordering a pairofd Amber's and a pair of backup clears. I cannibalized the Dobinsons wiring harness and built a harness for the Morimoto foglights and loomed them together. Just your standard 2 pin Deutsche connector. I happen to have a Deutsche connector kit so that worked out. It is so nice not using individual switches, switch harnesses, relays and fuses. Once I mount it under the Battery the M8RIX setup will look clean. I'd post a picture of what it looks like now, but....it's very "JEEP guy tried to do a nice job" looking. Not clean and professional like I like, Lol.


I was fiddling with the matrix and boy does it have a lot of options. You can set button icons, name them what you want, make them dependent on other buttons, dim your lights, strobe your lights, flash them. Change button colors...Haven't figured out how to change the inactive color. Just the active. Anyway, lots of features. The multi-function button also doubles as an voltmeter and amp usage monitor.

Well, the last thing I need to do is order some 5/16 4AWG terminals and the metri-pack terminals necessary to eliminate splicing to the pigtails that come with the M8RIX. I just want to get rid of that 6" pigtail and wire it directly.

I have another addition to make but I won't say anything more than that until it's done.
 
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