Oh. 6mm mildsteel, one piece cut and folded, no welds.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (67 Viewers)
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- Joined
- Sep 17, 2003
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So, a few weeks back I started the 80 and when pressing the brake pedal it was stiff and required significant pushing to apply braking force. Then it 'fixed' itself and all was fine - but stuck in my mind. Then a few days later happened again on starting and 'fixed' itself, but could hear a hiss from the booster area on brake application. Ok, always ready with the parts cannon, ordered a brake booster and gaskets etc., just in case. Then a couple of days ago, started again and hard brake pedal, drove around the block and it would vary good/not good. Parked it and drove the commute beater.
Today, figured it was time to rip things apart. First step was drain most of the brake reservoir, just in case. Take a pic for 'reference' and then undo the few bolts that hold the master to the booster and release some cables etc.
Went in through the DS skirt and released this brake line to ensure it could 'bend' happily.
Then heaved on the master to move it away from the booster to create enough room to extract it, The booster has been pulled out and this shot is showing how far the master was moved back away from the firewall/booster area. Also unclipped the brake line you see running along the top to create enough room to pull the booster out. It came out between the fender and that brake line with the clevis end facing down. It's tight to pull the booster out - stupid toyota could have made a couple of mm tweak to the upper/lower intake design, but then future maintenance is an 'other people problem'. Anyhow, it can be extracted with some 'force', getting the new one in will be interesting. A problem for another day.
Another view showing how far the master has been moved. There's plenty of flex in the pipes to move/bend them without any kinking etc. Just took my time.
Picture before releasing the clevis pin and removing the 4 nuts that hold the booster to the firewall. I also removed the clevis prior to pulling the booster out to 'shorten' things to make it easier to wiggle the booster out and away from the firewall.
Well, that's today's work. Took about an hour all up without rushing anything.
Next will be the fun of installing the new booster, younger son will come over tomorrow afternoon (in theory) to help guide the booster studs in. He's slim and has long fingers - perfect assistant for the job
cheers,
george.
Today, figured it was time to rip things apart. First step was drain most of the brake reservoir, just in case. Take a pic for 'reference' and then undo the few bolts that hold the master to the booster and release some cables etc.
Went in through the DS skirt and released this brake line to ensure it could 'bend' happily.
Then heaved on the master to move it away from the booster to create enough room to extract it, The booster has been pulled out and this shot is showing how far the master was moved back away from the firewall/booster area. Also unclipped the brake line you see running along the top to create enough room to pull the booster out. It came out between the fender and that brake line with the clevis end facing down. It's tight to pull the booster out - stupid toyota could have made a couple of mm tweak to the upper/lower intake design, but then future maintenance is an 'other people problem'. Anyhow, it can be extracted with some 'force', getting the new one in will be interesting. A problem for another day.
Another view showing how far the master has been moved. There's plenty of flex in the pipes to move/bend them without any kinking etc. Just took my time.
Picture before releasing the clevis pin and removing the 4 nuts that hold the booster to the firewall. I also removed the clevis prior to pulling the booster out to 'shorten' things to make it easier to wiggle the booster out and away from the firewall.
Well, that's today's work. Took about an hour all up without rushing anything.
Next will be the fun of installing the new booster, younger son will come over tomorrow afternoon (in theory) to help guide the booster studs in. He's slim and has long fingers - perfect assistant for the job
cheers,
george.
Finishing up an FT build….
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2003
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- Sunnyvale, CA
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Those straight 6 TD engines should have come in EVERY land cruiser. Puts the petrol engines to shame! I consider the 4.5L TDi V8 as an inferior performer with too much modern complexity for the bush.
cheers,
george.
cheers,
george.
agreed, from what ive heard when the starter motor goes on the 4.5L TDi V8 you have a very big job in front of you to replace them
Remove and install brake booster by Otram. One man brake bleeding. You can test to see if there is a leak on the brake booster with a smoke machine, removing the hose and insert the nozzle. I learned a bad brake booster can cause your engine to run lean.So, a few weeks back I started the 80 and when pressing the brake pedal it was stiff and required significant pushing to apply braking force. Then it 'fixed' itself and all was fine - but stuck in my mind. Then a few days later happened again on starting and 'fixed' itself, but could hear a hiss from the booster area on brake application. Ok, always ready with the parts cannon, ordered a brake booster and gaskets etc., just in case. Then a couple of days ago, started again and hard brake pedal, drove around the block and it would vary good/not good. Parked it and drove the commute beater.
Today, figured it was time to rip things apart. First step was drain most of the brake reservoir, just in case. Take a pic for 'reference' and then undo the few bolts that hold the master to the booster and release some cables etc.
View attachment 3986782
Went in through the DS skirt and released this brake line to ensure it could 'bend' happily.
View attachment 3986779
Then heaved on the master to move it away from the booster to create enough room to extract it, The booster has been pulled out and this shot is showing how far the master was moved back away from the firewall/booster area. Also unclipped the brake line you see running along the top to create enough room to pull the booster out. It came out between the fender and that brake line with the clevis end facing down. It's tight to pull the booster out - stupid toyota could have made a couple of mm tweak to the upper/lower intake design, but then future maintenance is an 'other people problem'. Anyhow, it can be extracted with some 'force', getting the new one in will be interesting. A problem for another day.
View attachment 3986780
Another view showing how far the master has been moved. There's plenty of flex in the pipes to move/bend them without any kinking etc. Just took my time.
View attachment 3986791
Picture before releasing the clevis pin and removing the 4 nuts that hold the booster to the firewall. I also removed the clevis prior to pulling the booster out to 'shorten' things to make it easier to wiggle the booster out and away from the firewall.
View attachment 3986793
Well, that's today's work. Took about an hour all up without rushing anything.
Next will be the fun of installing the new booster, younger son will come over tomorrow afternoon (in theory) to help guide the booster studs in. He's slim and has long fingers - perfect assistant for the job
cheers,
george.
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I highly recommend getting a smoking pumpkin 
( smoke machine) if you run into a P0171 lean code. Had a spooky time trying to identify the cause of bank 1 and 2 running 25 percent long term.
( smoke machine) if you run into a P0171 lean code. Had a spooky time trying to identify the cause of bank 1 and 2 running 25 percent long term.
I'm in the process of removing and replacing the high pressure power steering hose, it was leaking bad. My radiator also leaked (picked this fj80 up last year for cheap, was sitting in a backyard for six years) so trying out the Liland replacement.
What are ya'll doing for the transmission cooling lines to and from the radiator/aux cooler? Parts stores only sell 3/8 inch with 9.5mm ID making those hoses almost impossible to get on easily, plus the OEM hose clamps will no longer fit.
Two out of the three hoses are still available but $$$. Last resort I don't mind shelling out, but wondering what everyone else has done regarding them.
What are ya'll doing for the transmission cooling lines to and from the radiator/aux cooler? Parts stores only sell 3/8 inch with 9.5mm ID making those hoses almost impossible to get on easily, plus the OEM hose clamps will no longer fit.
Two out of the three hoses are still available but $$$. Last resort I don't mind shelling out, but wondering what everyone else has done regarding them.
lumbee1
Native American
I finally replaced my military terminals with something nicer.
New reman Jag 140A alternator installed. Only minor trimming to make it fit.
New reman Jag 140A alternator installed. Only minor trimming to make it fit.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Hopefully the Jaguar reliability virus will not spread from the alternator to the rest of the vehicle!
Installed my refurbished injectors.
I love the loom
Thanks. This all started out with a couple crumbling injector connectors and subsequent misfires then snowballed into cutting out and splicing in most the connectors on the upper half of the harness among a few other “while you’re in there” items.
Needed to use my Come Up winch today and found it totally cooked 
(Line completely melted.)
No idea what happened but assume something was connected incorrectly…
(Line completely melted.)No idea what happened but assume something was connected incorrectly…
COS80
SILVER Star
Is there a fix for this?
Also, are the switch blank covers still available? P/n? I have a defective Slee battery indicator I want to ditch and plug the hole.
Also, are the switch blank covers still available? P/n? I have a defective Slee battery indicator I want to ditch and plug the hole.
lumbee1
Native American
It's an AC Delco alternator for a Jaguar. The first one only last 5 years but it was covered in mud.
lumbee1
Native American
I also cleaned up the wiring pn my homemade QPM. The fuse box is currently powering a remote controller relay. I will be adding a Victron 100/30 MPPT to the bottom of the QPM for solar charging.
Went to the beach on this rainy day
- Joined
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- Sunnyvale, CA
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- www.george4wd.taskled.com
Follow on from yesterday and removing the old faulty booster.
Got the new booster set up, installed clevis to match position on original. Verified the master cylinder spacing of the booster nozzle/pin (whatever it is actually named). Was spot on correct, no adjustment needed.
Put the new firewall side gasket on, tacked it with some grease and then positioned it to try and fight it into place. Didn't seem to want to go, but by then my younger son had turned up and he started trying to get the 2 PS studs to go in (2 DS studs were already into their holes a little). In the meantime I went under the vehicle, loosened off the DS engine mount bolt and then use a jack between the axle housing and the bottom of the engine (not the pan...) to raise things a few cm.
My son then called down and said it was in. Too easy
. Slid fully in and the clevis even correctly straddled the brake pedal arm. I went with an aftermarket booster from City Racer, $250 seemed good to me. It's not exactly the same outside shape as OEM, but all the important surfaces bolt up correctly.
While he took care of the interior side of things, the 4 nuts, the clevis pin, spring etc, I got to work to get the master cylinder back in place to bolt to the front of the booster.
All hooked up and some fresh fluid into the master reservoir.
Fired up the engine and verified the brake pedal felt 'normal' and the brakes were functioning (moving just a foot or so forward/back). Then pumped up the DS front tyre since I'd deflated it to lower the vehicle to make working on it a bit easier. Then took it for a spin around the block and all good and no more hissing on brake pedal depressing.
I will bleed out all the brake lines since it's time for fresh fluid throughout the system. But that can wait a while since I want to just drive and enjoy it for a week or three
cheers,
george.
Got the new booster set up, installed clevis to match position on original. Verified the master cylinder spacing of the booster nozzle/pin (whatever it is actually named). Was spot on correct, no adjustment needed.
Put the new firewall side gasket on, tacked it with some grease and then positioned it to try and fight it into place. Didn't seem to want to go, but by then my younger son had turned up and he started trying to get the 2 PS studs to go in (2 DS studs were already into their holes a little). In the meantime I went under the vehicle, loosened off the DS engine mount bolt and then use a jack between the axle housing and the bottom of the engine (not the pan...) to raise things a few cm.
My son then called down and said it was in. Too easy
. Slid fully in and the clevis even correctly straddled the brake pedal arm. I went with an aftermarket booster from City Racer, $250 seemed good to me. It's not exactly the same outside shape as OEM, but all the important surfaces bolt up correctly.While he took care of the interior side of things, the 4 nuts, the clevis pin, spring etc, I got to work to get the master cylinder back in place to bolt to the front of the booster.
All hooked up and some fresh fluid into the master reservoir.
Fired up the engine and verified the brake pedal felt 'normal' and the brakes were functioning (moving just a foot or so forward/back). Then pumped up the DS front tyre since I'd deflated it to lower the vehicle to make working on it a bit easier. Then took it for a spin around the block and all good and no more hissing on brake pedal depressing.
I will bleed out all the brake lines since it's time for fresh fluid throughout the system. But that can wait a while since I want to just drive and enjoy it for a week or three
cheers,
george.
What's your departure angle? 
