What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (45 Viewers)

[BeardedBaldy]

Oh. 6mm mildsteel, one piece cut and folded, no welds.

 

[george_tlc]

So, a few weeks back I started the 80 and when pressing the brake pedal it was stiff and required significant pushing to apply braking force. Then it 'fixed' itself and all was fine - but stuck in my mind. Then a few days later happened again on starting and 'fixed' itself, but could hear a hiss from the booster area on brake application. Ok, always ready with the parts cannon, ordered a brake booster and gaskets etc., just in case. Then a couple of days ago, started again and hard brake pedal, drove around the block and it would vary good/not good. Parked it and drove the commute beater.

Today, figured it was time to rip things apart. First step was drain most of the brake reservoir, just in case. Take a pic for 'reference' and then undo the few bolts that hold the master to the booster and release some cables etc.

Went in through the DS skirt and released this brake line to ensure it could 'bend' happily.

Then heaved on the master to move it away from the booster to create enough room to extract it, The booster has been pulled out and this shot is showing how far the master was moved back away from the firewall/booster area. Also unclipped the brake line you see running along the top to create enough room to pull the booster out. It came out between the fender and that brake line with the clevis end facing down. It's tight to pull the booster out - stupid toyota could have made a couple of mm tweak to the upper/lower intake design, but then future maintenance is an 'other people problem'. Anyhow, it can be extracted with some 'force', getting the new one in will be interesting. A problem for another day.

Another view showing how far the master has been moved. There's plenty of flex in the pipes to move/bend them without any kinking etc. Just took my time.

Picture before releasing the clevis pin and removing the 4 nuts that hold the booster to the firewall. I also removed the clevis prior to pulling the booster out to 'shorten' things to make it easier to wiggle the booster out and away from the firewall.

Well, that's today's work. Took about an hour all up without rushing anything.

Next will be the fun of installing the new booster, younger son will come over tomorrow afternoon (in theory) to help guide the booster studs in. He's slim and has long fingers - perfect assistant for the job

cheers,
george.

 

[OGBeno]

Finishing up an FT build….

 

[george_tlc]

Those straight 6 TD engines should have come in EVERY land cruiser. Puts the petrol engines to shame! I consider the 4.5L TDi V8 as an inferior performer with too much modern complexity for the bush.

cheers,
george.

 

[robnicko]

Those straight 6 TD engines should have come in EVERY land cruiser. Puts the petrol engines to shame! I consider the 4.5L TDi V8 as an inferior performer with too much modern complexity for the bush.

cheers,
george.

agreed, from what ive heard when the starter motor goes on the 4.5L TDi V8 you have a very big job in front of you to replace them

 

[wiynwiyn]

So, a few weeks back I started the 80 and when pressing the brake pedal it was stiff and required significant pushing to apply braking force. Then it 'fixed' itself and all was fine - but stuck in my mind. Then a few days later happened again on starting and 'fixed' itself, but could hear a hiss from the booster area on brake application. Ok, always ready with the parts cannon, ordered a brake booster and gaskets etc., just in case. Then a couple of days ago, started again and hard brake pedal, drove around the block and it would vary good/not good. Parked it and drove the commute beater.

Today, figured it was time to rip things apart. First step was drain most of the brake reservoir, just in case. Take a pic for 'reference' and then undo the few bolts that hold the master to the booster and release some cables etc.

View attachment 3986782

Went in through the DS skirt and released this brake line to ensure it could 'bend' happily.

View attachment 3986779

Then heaved on the master to move it away from the booster to create enough room to extract it, The booster has been pulled out and this shot is showing how far the master was moved back away from the firewall/booster area. Also unclipped the brake line you see running along the top to create enough room to pull the booster out. It came out between the fender and that brake line with the clevis end facing down. It's tight to pull the booster out - stupid toyota could have made a couple of mm tweak to the upper/lower intake design, but then future maintenance is an 'other people problem'. Anyhow, it can be extracted with some 'force', getting the new one in will be interesting. A problem for another day.


View attachment 3986780

Another view showing how far the master has been moved. There's plenty of flex in the pipes to move/bend them without any kinking etc. Just took my time.

View attachment 3986791

Picture before releasing the clevis pin and removing the 4 nuts that hold the booster to the firewall. I also removed the clevis prior to pulling the booster out to 'shorten' things to make it easier to wiggle the booster out and away from the firewall.

View attachment 3986793

Well, that's today's work. Took about an hour all up without rushing anything.

Next will be the fun of installing the new booster, younger son will come over tomorrow afternoon (in theory) to help guide the booster studs in. He's slim and has long fingers - perfect assistant for the job

cheers,
george.

Remove and install brake booster by Otram. One man brake bleeding. You can test to see if there is a leak on the brake booster with a smoke machine, removing the hose and insert the nozzle. I learned a bad brake booster can cause your engine to run lean.

 

[wiynwiyn]

I highly recommend getting a smoking pumpkin ( smoke machine) if you run into a P0171 lean code. Had a spooky time trying to identify the cause of bank 1 and 2 running 25 percent long term.