What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (59 Viewers)

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What did you do with the factory flares?
It was missing both of the back flares and both of the fronts were slightly damaged. My son didn't like the look of going flare less, so we went after market. To put things into perspective we spent more on his 2018 MTB 2 years ago than this 80. It was missing more half of the interior trim pieces and was full of trash, dirty mags "not wheels", lube stuffed in the tire tool location "not the kind that can be used on the car 🤮, and was horrible neglected. If you're interested in what flares I have I can dig them out and see if they're useful? If I remember they all had damage of some kind.
 
A "flare" for the dramatic...:lol:
 
It was missing both of the back flares and both of the fronts were slightly damaged. My son didn't like the look of going flare less, so we went after market. To put things into perspective we spent more on his 2018 MTB 2 years ago than this 80. It was missing more half of the interior trim pieces and was full of trash, dirty mags "not wheels", lube stuffed in the tire tool location "not the kind that can be used on the car 🤮, and was horrible neglected.
Did Dirty Mike and The Boys leave a note in it that says, "Thanks for the F-Shack"?
 
Replacing the dizzy o-ring. What would have been helpful is if I actually had a new dizzy o-ring on my parts shelf ready to go in. Could have swore I picked it up from my local Mr T. dealer when they told me it had arrived a few weeks ago. Oh well. I plopped the dizzy back into the block in the meantime. Took advantage of the elbow room and cleaned up the alternator and upper rad. pipe.

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Just got back from Death Valley. It was our first big trip in our new to us FJ80. The 3fe ran great besides pulling grades at 45mph with the pedal to the floor, really puts the “cruise” in Land Cruiser LOL!

It was so much better to camp out of than my old Tacoma although damn this thing is hell on washboard roads! It was so bumpy even aired down to 15 psi that we had the bolts and nuts from the windshield visor, speaker, and my front third member back out! Oh yea, and the top corner of our windshield popped out so I had to silicone that back together.

We did Lippencott pass, Steele pass, and some of lookout city. Lippencotts basically a fire road compared to the last time I did it! Super fun 4 days, always love getting out there and trying our best to see it all.

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Installed four new OEM window runs, closed cell foam sheet on the door cards, and fixed rattling LEDs in the mud lights. I haven't been able to test it yet but I have high hopes it will sound more solid on the inside.
 
Can you list the symptoms you were experiencing? I have a heater control valve that was leaking really bad. I have the car all apart now to redo the cooling system. Maybe I’ll check that injector on mine too. I have a low idle. No cold start idle and it drops below 650 when fully warm and vehicle feels like a Harley Davidson. Not sure if it’s injector related or what. Works fine when you give it a tiny bit of gas and raise rpm above 650-700ish.
Mainly a random misfire after fiddling with the EGR temp sensor while installing/removing test resistor (#6 injector pigtail is taped to the EGR temp sensor as a mini-harness back there). Also very poor power under load that would make the exhaust rattle hard when kicking down a gear to hold speed on a hill. I'll have all of the parts to put this back together later this week and can report back. Found a few other issues along the way including sketchy vacuum lines under the intake manifold and 5 different size intake studs where some physically couldn't be tightened enough to get proper torque on the intake to head (center unthreaded shank too long).

I found that basically all of the injector harness clips were shot from age/heat...#6 had disintegrated, but 1-5 were a weak clip at best. I replaced all of the pigtails plus a few other sensor plugs that were sketchy including the knock sensors with such a tiny wire anyway (one wire failed right at the harness plug and fell off completely when I unclipped it).

Hopefully a happy report back in a week or so!
 
It was missing both of the back flares and both of the fronts were slightly damaged. My son didn't like the look of going flare less, so we went after market. To put things into perspective we spent more on his 2018 MTB 2 years ago than this 80. It was missing more half of the interior trim pieces and was full of trash, dirty mags "not wheels", lube stuffed in the tire tool location "not the kind that can be used on the car 🤮, and was horrible neglected. If you're interested in what flares I have I can dig them out and see if they're useful? If I remember they all had damage of some kind.
Dibs on the lube.
 
Clicked a milestone on the way in this morning, I’ve rolled roughly 32,000 miles since I took her in back in the late fall of 2019.

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Climbing a large dune on 2WD!

Been having a ton of fun the past few weeks testing out the 1FZ-FE Stroker. Especially in the sand dunes.

For my camshaft profile, I should be seeing the power peak around 6000-6500 RPM while holding the torque until 7500-8000 RPM. However, I realized that with my current setup the engine tapers off quickly after 5800 RPM (VE Drops), as also shown my the manifold pressure decreasing beyond 5800 RPM, with a significant drop when I try to rev it till 8000 RPM. Right now I feel a surge of power above 4000 RPM and that surge stops at around 5200 RPM.

Factors At Play:

1. Valve Spring Stiffness

2. Exhaust design

3. Intake design

Valve Spring Stiffness:

The higher the lift of the camshaft, the stiffer the springs need to be, or else you will get valve float. Now, I have not noticed any backfiring at very high RPM like 7500-8000 RPM but minor valve float can still cause weak airflow at very high RPM, and will not allow the camshaft to be used to its full potential, in terms of valve actuation and timing.

The solution? Dual valve springs instead of the current single valve springs.

Exhaust Design:

My current headers are 6-1 Long Tubes with 1 7/8 Primaries and a 3.5 inch collector with long primary tubes (32-34 inches). After some research I have discovered that for my target powerband of 5000-8000 RPM this is not optimal.

Larger Exhaust Header Primary Tube Diameter = Shift torque peak to a higher RPM + Hold torque better at higher RPM

Technical Notes:

  • Reduces exhaust gas velocity at low RPM, but allows higher peak flow at high RPM. At high RPM, engines produce larger volumes of exhaust gas in shorter timeframes. A larger primary tube diameter reduces backpressure at these higher exhaust flow rates, allowing the engine to breathe more freely.
  • Reduced backpressure means lower restriction. This enables improved scavenging, where the exhaust pulses help pull exhaust gases from adjacent cylinders, enhancing cylinder filling at high RPM.
  • Reflection dynamics: Larger primaries slightly delay and soften the exhaust pressure wave reflections. The softer reflections are timed better at higher RPM, reducing interference that can restrict airflow at high speeds.
Shorter Exhaust Header Primary Tube Length = Shift torque peak to a higher RPM + Hold torque better at higher RPM

Technical Notes:


  • Shifts optimal reflection timing higher: Exhaust headers use pulse reflections from the collector to improve cylinder scavenging. A shorter primary length means the exhaust pulses reach the collector sooner, reflecting the pressure wave earlier.
  • Optimizes scavenging at high RPM: With shorter tubes, the negative pressure wave (vacuum pulse created at the collector) returns to the exhaust valve sooner, perfectly timed to help pull exhaust gases out of the cylinder during the exhaust stroke at high RPM.
  • At lower RPM, these reflections return too early, losing the advantage: This is why short primary tubes are optimal specifically at higher engine speeds.

Larger Exhaust Header Collector Diameter = Shift torque peak to a higher RPM + Hold torque better at higher RPM

Technical Notes:


  • Improves high-RPM scavenging effect by reducing collector backpressure: A larger collector allows exhaust gases from all cylinders to merge and exit more freely. This enhances the scavenging effect at higher RPM, making it easier for pulses to smoothly transition out of the header.
  • Reduced interference among cylinders: A larger collector diameter reduces turbulent flow and gas congestion, providing a clearer path for each exhaust pulse, maintaining momentum at higher RPM.
  • Enhances reflection strength at high RPM: At higher RPM, a larger collector ensures the reflection wave timing matches high-frequency exhaust pulses, enhancing scavenging and cylinder filling at high engine speeds.

You get the trend here—doing the opposite shifts the header tuning down to lower RPM.

The solution? Design a custom header with:

2.125 inch Primary Tube Diameter

24-26 inch Primary Tube Length

4.5 inch Collector

Intake Design:


In short, the shorter the runners after the throttle body, the better the high RPM performance, you shift the powerband up. My intake manifold already has significant internal volume (in liters), but the runners are still quite long.

The ultimate solution here is to go with ITBs, individual throttle bodies per cylinder. However, I wont be doing that now, next year. But I suspect this will offer the best flow for my target RPM range.
 


Climbing a large dune on 2WD!

Been having a ton of fun the past few weeks testing out the 1FZ-FE Stroker. Especially in the sand dunes.

For my camshaft profile, I should be seeing the power peak around 6000-6500 RPM while holding the torque until 7500-8000 RPM. However, I realized that with my current setup the engine tapers off quickly after 5800 RPM (VE Drops), as also shown my the manifold pressure decreasing beyond 5800 RPM, with a significant drop when I try to rev it till 8000 RPM. Right now I feel a surge of power above 4000 RPM and that surge stops at around 5200 RPM.

Factors At Play:

1. Valve Spring Stiffness

2. Exhaust design

3. Intake design

Valve Spring Stiffness:

The higher the lift of the camshaft, the stiffer the springs need to be, or else you will get valve float. Now, I have not noticed any backfiring at very high RPM like 7500-8000 RPM but minor valve float can still cause weak airflow at very high RPM, and will not allow the camshaft to be used to its full potential, in terms of valve actuation and timing.

The solution? Dual valve springs instead of the current single valve springs.

Exhaust Design:

My current headers are 6-1 Long Tubes with 1 7/8 Primaries and a 3.5 inch collector with long primary tubes (32-34 inches). After some research I have discovered that for my target powerband of 5000-8000 RPM this is not optimal.

Larger Exhaust Header Primary Tube Diameter = Shift torque peak to a higher RPM + Hold torque better at higher RPM

Technical Notes:

  • Reduces exhaust gas velocity at low RPM, but allows higher peak flow at high RPM. At high RPM, engines produce larger volumes of exhaust gas in shorter timeframes. A larger primary tube diameter reduces backpressure at these higher exhaust flow rates, allowing the engine to breathe more freely.
  • Reduced backpressure means lower restriction. This enables improved scavenging, where the exhaust pulses help pull exhaust gases from adjacent cylinders, enhancing cylinder filling at high RPM.
  • Reflection dynamics: Larger primaries slightly delay and soften the exhaust pressure wave reflections. The softer reflections are timed better at higher RPM, reducing interference that can restrict airflow at high speeds.
Shorter Exhaust Header Primary Tube Length = Shift torque peak to a higher RPM + Hold torque better at higher RPM

Technical Notes:


  • Shifts optimal reflection timing higher: Exhaust headers use pulse reflections from the collector to improve cylinder scavenging. A shorter primary length means the exhaust pulses reach the collector sooner, reflecting the pressure wave earlier.
  • Optimizes scavenging at high RPM: With shorter tubes, the negative pressure wave (vacuum pulse created at the collector) returns to the exhaust valve sooner, perfectly timed to help pull exhaust gases out of the cylinder during the exhaust stroke at high RPM.
  • At lower RPM, these reflections return too early, losing the advantage: This is why short primary tubes are optimal specifically at higher engine speeds.

Larger Exhaust Header Collector Diameter = Shift torque peak to a higher RPM + Hold torque better at higher RPM

Technical Notes:


  • Improves high-RPM scavenging effect by reducing collector backpressure: A larger collector allows exhaust gases from all cylinders to merge and exit more freely. This enhances the scavenging effect at higher RPM, making it easier for pulses to smoothly transition out of the header.
  • Reduced interference among cylinders: A larger collector diameter reduces turbulent flow and gas congestion, providing a clearer path for each exhaust pulse, maintaining momentum at higher RPM.
  • Enhances reflection strength at high RPM: At higher RPM, a larger collector ensures the reflection wave timing matches high-frequency exhaust pulses, enhancing scavenging and cylinder filling at high engine speeds.

You get the trend here—doing the opposite shifts the header tuning down to lower RPM.

The solution? Design a custom header with:

2.125 inch Primary Tube Diameter

24-26 inch Primary Tube Length

4.5 inch Collector

Intake Design:


In short, the shorter the runners after the throttle body, the better the high RPM performance, you shift the powerband up. My intake manifold already has significant internal volume (in liters), but the runners are still quite long.

The ultimate solution here is to go with ITBs, individual throttle bodies per cylinder. However, I wont be doing that now, next year. But I suspect this will offer the best flow for my target RPM range.

woulda made a bad ass Cruiser AD back in the 90s
 
It's depressing reading this thread after my Land Cruiser got stolen. 20 years of maintenance and modifications all gone. At least I still have the memories. Still trying to decide whether to replace it with another one or go a different direction.

Police recovered my Land Cruiser early this morning and now it is back in my possession. A little damage but doesn't appear too bad. Homeless were living in it so I'll need to gut the interior for a deep clean before I put it back into use. Needs a new ignition switch and bracket, one of the flares is scraped up and the exhaust is a lot louder then before. So far that is all I've noticed so I may recover from this one.
 
Police recovered my Land Cruiser early this morning and now it is back in my possession. A little damage but doesn't appear too bad. Homeless were living in it so I'll need to gut the interior for a deep clean before I put it back into use. Needs a new ignition switch and bracket, one of the flares is scraped up and the exhaust is a lot louder then before. So far that is all I've noticed so I may recover from this one.
Glad you recovered it
 
Police recovered my Land Cruiser early this morning and now it is back in my possession. A little damage but doesn't appear too bad. Homeless were living in it so I'll need to gut the interior for a deep clean before I put it back into use. Needs a new ignition switch and bracket, one of the flares is scraped up and the exhaust is a lot louder then before. So far that is all I've noticed so I may recover from this one.
Dirty Mike and the boys strike again!
 
I'd say up to 150W would be fine per circuit. I recently changed them for Osram nightbreakers... low beam still bad, high beam ok but hard to get more out of the old headlight design. Many H4/H1 led options out there but nothing approved/tested for the 80 series headlights afaik.
150w would be pushing the std wiring i reckon.
If you want/need to go that high run a separate relay & larger wire using the original as the relay trigger
 

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